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134LOO Build

29K views 290 replies 14 participants last post by  slitterell 
#1 · (Edited)
I thought I had a build thread on here but apparently I only have a super friendly dyno sheet. If I can get my car built (again) will be dyno-ing on the same dyno in a couple of weeks (I am sure hopelessly optimisic) but surely by a couple of weeks later for what is called Lone Star Bash, a drag racing event in Temple, TX for all street cars.

134LOO or Baloo is the name of my car and the only way I can get them to work with custom Texas plates. Shortly, I will also have a Sky Redline so I can't name it slitterell's build thread :)

Here is what I have up to this point:

Audio

-Alpine Receiver (forget model but has inputs on rear of deck)
-Rockford Fosgate P6002 pushing a Kicker Enclosed 12" 600W (plenty imo)
-Kicker 600W Amp pushing 4 component 6 1/2 Alpine Type R's
-Custom Audio and usb charging port

Note: I have an audio hum I got AFTER I installed my wideband and only hums when gauge is connected. Grounds are in different areas. I am going to attempt to relocate the remote (on) connection to keep them from sharing the same power on line. Wideband listed below. Thoughts?

Cosmetics

-Custom shift and ebrake boot from RedlineGoods. I thought the color scheme would look good especially if I did the red GS stripes. This will change eventually to blue.


-Ambient Air Temperature in rear view mirror. This mirror was a free upgrade when a tandem axle went through my windshield and they ordered the wrong part and installed it. I had to order the sensor and run the wiring. I found a guide on here (RLF) to help me out


-A-Pillar gauge pod with Wideband and Aeroforce interceptor.

Performance:
-2.9 Pulley m62
-E85
-Custom Tune
-Dual Pass
-Option B
-Magnaflow 2.5 catback
-0ttp Long tubes catted
-AEM Uego Wideband
-Fidanza Flywheel
-GMPP Clutch
-FMHE
-Chain tensioner revision (performance for my chain and my ears haha)
-0TTP axles
-K&N cai
-80# inj
-Hurst sts
-Phenolic Spacer
-Viper Security with SmartStart

I am sure I am missing things but I will add them as I remember.

Mods to come:**UPDATED 2/22/13**

-Ethanasia Ported head (currently being worked on)
-S2 SC ZZP Cams (Ready)
-ARP Studs (Ready)
-Supertech Springs (Ready)
-Single Pass IM (Friend is giving me a IM and I am taking it to a machine shop with specs)
-Hoosier D.O.T. Drag Radial P245/45R17 (Ordered)
-Enkei EDR9-5x110 +38 17X8 (Ordered)
-2.7 & 2.5 Pulleys (Ordered)
-Ice Box (Water to Air Ice Box Reservoir)with some modification to the engine bay, I think I can fit this where the option B goes. ports would likely run though the front support (not sure the proper name). Thoughts are welcome

Unsure

- Balance Shaft Delete: this is more of a when not if
- Dual pump This is just a thought and I am considering running this as a test. I heard of someone talking about trying this but I am not sure they did and I think they were talking about a dual pass design as well. Each pump would have it's own path from the icebox, through the pumps, through the single pass until the heat exchanger. If I understand it right, rate of flow would increase through the intercooler from the y or t pipe into the intercooler all the way back to the reservoir/icebox. The restriction will be where the pipes y but it should increase flow. Thoughts?



Again, thoughts are welcome on all mods or future mods :) I will update later with things I forgotwhen I get back from work
 
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#4 ·
I have updated my list...again.

Thanks! Same to you

Personally, I would skip that ice box and run meth/water injection if you want the additional cooling. With E85, you really don't need the added octane boost from the methanol so you could even run straight water.

As important as cooling mods are once you go past a dual pass end plate and HE you are spending a lot of money and not getting big returns. An icebox will work as standard pass through tank but the ice will melt fast. Even if you plan on using it at the track the ice will probably melt before you can get staged.

I have a ported single pass IM from Euthanasia and I know it works better then a dual pass endplate. But I don't recommend everyone go out and buy one because the gains don't necessarily justify the cost.

The dual pumps is going to be tricky. I understand how you think increasing the flow rate is better but that may not always be true. You have to take into consideration the efficiency of the components that are doing the heating/cooling transfers. The purpose of a heat exchange to remove heat from the coolant and cycle it back into the system. If the coolant is moving through the heat Exchanger too quickly it might not have enough time to remove the heat? I have no idea what the optimal flow rate is but these Bosch pumps are used in a lot of stock and aftermarket applications.

I would "assume" that if increasing the flow rate was that much better then we would see different pumps being used. I have seen people "upgrade" their pumps on this platform and not see a lot of change in their temps. But it is extremely difficult to test with all the variables that contribute to charged air temps...

Nice build thread btw. We need more of these on RLFs!

:bigthumb:
First off, Thank you! It does mean a lot hearing that from you and I do respect your opinion.

I have decided against meth/water injection. It doesn't fit into my long term goals. Eventually, after my engine build in the future, I plan on going on the bottle with possibly a TVS.

The know of a shop that will do machine work for me for cheap. The intake manifold will be cheap (most likely free) so I am pretty sure I could have a $100 single pass.

The ice box idea is being used by a friend of mine with a CSS. His has noticeable IAT changes. and has enough capacity for 2 or 3 passes with only 1 gallon of ice. The ice box I am talking about has a 2.6 gal capacity.

The dual pump thing won't be to expensive to attempt. If it doesn't work out, the only thing I am out is few bits of hoses. The other pump would be a backup. You know how fickle this pumps are :) Depending on the results, I am considering a more complex set up to start one pump when I am about to do a pull or, if possible, to activate when the computer sees WOT or temperature control, ... This would be a good opportunity to use my electrical engineering degree I haven't used in 2 years lol Then again, it may fail for exactly the reason you said. I have thought about that, it would be less time for the water to be cooled in the heat exchanger. There are 3 things that might counter that. The 2.6 gallon ice box, the decreased time of water in the intercooler, and, hopefully, the decreased over all temperature of the intake.
 
#3 ·
Personally, I would skip that ice box and run meth/water injection if you want the additional cooling. With E85, you really don't need the added octane boost from the methanol so you could even run straight water.

As important as cooling mods are once you go past a dual pass end plate and HE you are spending a lot of money and not getting big returns. An icebox will work as standard pass through tank but the ice will melt fast. Even if you plan on using it at the track the ice will probably melt before you can get staged.

I have a ported single pass IM from Euthanasia and I know it works better then a dual pass endplate. But I don't recommend everyone go out and buy one because the gains don't necessarily justify the cost.

The dual pumps is going to be tricky. I understand how you think increasing the flow rate is better but that may not always be true. You have to take into consideration the efficiency of the components that are doing the heating/cooling transfers. The purpose of a heat exchange to remove heat from the coolant and cycle it back into the system. If the coolant is moving through the heat Exchanger too quickly it might not have enough time to remove the heat? I have no idea what the optimal flow rate is but these Bosch pumps are used in a lot of stock and aftermarket applications.

I would "assume" that if increasing the flow rate was that much better then we would see different pumps being used. I have seen people "upgrade" their pumps on this platform and not see a lot of change in their temps. But it is extremely difficult to test with all the variables that contribute to charged air temps...

Nice build thread btw. We need more of these on RLFs!

:bigthumb:
 
#7 ·
I'm interested to see your results on the ice box as well.

I think your pick on the 245/45/17 tires n wheel will work out good for you. Best not to have the wheels/tires stick past the fenders and create drag
 
#8 ·
true. This will be for track purposes only...unless I get lazy and not change them out on my way home haha. They are DOT tires :)

I have been looking for an icebox since my friend has one and there is a noticeable difference at the track. I just have to insulate the box to keep it from condensing and dripping on to the track.
 
#10 ·
Fwiw, lingenfelter uses the exact same pump we have on all their a/w boosted builds, and does not bother with dual pumps until its a huge setup, like a TT or 2300...
Moving the fluid faster after a certain point has hardly any change; those builds have a much larger intercooler that needs more flow.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the advice but I experienced quite the opposite haha. The zzp gaskets that came with it blew out the first time I hit boost. I torqued the im bolts properly as well.

Also, it may just be in my head, I will admit, but it appears that IATs recover quicker and appear a few degrees lower than before. It is hard to compare apples to apples when tempertures from pull to pull and day to day differ.
 
#15 ·
No, but you do have to drop the cradle on one side and sag the motor down to be able to put the bearing blockers in. You would also have to have some kind of tool to bake sure they were lined up properly before you start beating them in.
It would definitely me much easier with the motor out.
 
#16 ·
I've been wanting to use those. I thought about doing it with the motor was in as Jordan said its more then likely feasible.

Then again I may wait till I sleeve my block. Who knows
 
#18 ·
I'm saying to install them in with the motor in the car. You have to have a way to hold them straight and reach back to where they go. Nothing "special". Just like a dowel rod or something.
 
#23 ·
You may want to consider neutral shafts then. Not the best solution but still way better than stock.
 
#26 ·
Shouldn't it just be a BSD because they aren't neutral stock? :)

Well, my motor tear down begins in the next couple of days. I haven't torn it down yet because of the weather. I might go ahead and order and install the BSD but that depends on how the tear down looks. I am 90% sure I blew a head gasket.

I was just driving down the road and the car started vibrating bad, could smell raw fuel and exhaust, and could hear a massive leak. Sounds are coming from the rear of motor but block and head seems to be intact. So, yes, a massive tear down with pictures is in order.

If y'all don't mind, keep an eye out for a long block just in case. (please no please no please no). Or hell, maybe it is time for an LS RWD conversion :lol:
 
#27 ·
Shouldn't it just be a BSD because they aren't neutral stock? :)
I was talking about going from BS to NBS to NBSD.

;)

If y'all don't mind, keep an eye out for a long block just in case. (please no please no please no). Or hell, maybe it is time for an LS RWD conversion :lol:
Yes on the first part and uh ah on the second part.
 
#29 ·
Yeah... It's happened a few times. That's no good :(
 
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