I think everyone agrees that disrupting the "boost signal" from the actuator valve is the way to go. It really doesn't matter how you do it... Removing it from the solenoid and plugging the nipple of the solenoid. Remove it from the actuator and jamming a bolt in the line coming from the solenoid. remove the line altogether and plug the actuator nipple... None of that matters, and all three methods accomplish the same exact thing.
What I think matters is... Do you plug the nipple of the actuator? Or leave it open?
I say get a small piece of foam and rubber band it or whatever over the nipple where it's still open to atmospheric pressure so the bladder in the actuator can move more freely. Seems like it would be slow to respond to vaccum on the top of the bladder if air were restricted on the bottom.
Try a real world test... It's spring loaded... With the engine not running, remove the boost signal line from the actuator and leave the nipple open. Manually push the plunger into the actuator (opening the bypass valve) and let it go. See how fast it returns to the closed position. (It should fail to the closed position from the spring tension)... Then, push the plunger into the actuator again and this time stick your thumb over the boost signal nipple and see if it closes any slower.
Maybe it doesn't matter... With the stage kits, according to the log data from Sp00ner, the ECU doesn't limit boost anymore anyway in 1st or 2nd...
So the question here should be... Do we leave the actuator nipple open, or plug that bitch? And I think what you'll find is... 10 different people with 10 different answers, all justified by their own logical educated opinion on the subject.
My logical educated opinion says that if you leave the nipple of the actuator open to atmosphere, it will respond to vaccum faster.
In fact, that third "mystery nipple" on the solenoid could be doing just that. Venting the lower nipple of the actuator to open atmosphere when the solenoid is shut... Ain't boost bypass a bitch?
