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Originally Posted by Eagle_f90
Ok, like I said I don't know much about stock. I know the SM rules for SCCA SOLO II as that is what I run in.
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Don't sweat it! I usually run in XP, and I don't know half the rules in that class! I don't even know where to begin in SM. Stock just happens to be "fairly" easy, as you can mod shocks, front bar, tires and brake pads.
Oh, BTW, I mentioned this earlier, but glossed over it. If you want C-H-E-A-P sets of wheels, buy some used Miata wheels. They're light and plentiful. They come in everything from a 15-17" diameters and widths from 6-8". Their bolt patterns are 4x100, and their backspacing is within 4mm of ours.
However, their hub-centric ring is about 5mm too small for our hubs. If there is a machine shop locally, they may be able to carve out that hole. But, don't hold your breath. I suggest the following method for doing it yourself:
1) Go buy a 2-3/8" hole saw. They're at Lowes and Home Depot near the drill bits. You'll need a bi-metal one.
2a) If you've got a drill press large enough, then set it up so that the hole saw is centered in the wheel. Then, simply drill down and remove about 1cm of material.
2b) I've got a drill press, but nothing that big. However, I do have a drill. To set this up, you'll need a drill, 4x4 peice of scrap angle iron about 2" longer than the wheel diameter, 2 4" C-clamps, and a tubing notcher (Harbor Freight sells them for about $15).
Once you have the materials, disassemble the tube holder from the notcher (2 bolts). Also remove the "foot" (1 bolt). Then, you want to mount the tubing notcher onto the 4x4 angle iron. You are going to have to center it so that the notcher is right above the hole in the wheel when you place the angle iron over the wheel. Mark the holes and drill the angle iron so that you can mount the tubing notcher solidly.
Next, attach the hole saw to the tubing notcher, then attach the drill. Then, you need to clamp the angle iron to the wheel. The back of the wheel has a small lip that will just hold the clamp. Once it's all clamped solidly, you can start drilling.
You'll want to start slowly with the drill. You need to mark the wheel with the saw, then stop to make sure you're relatively centered. If so, you can go ahead and start. You should try to hold the drill speed down, as the aluminum tends to melt with higher speeds.
Oh, you should measure 1cm up on the hole saw and draw a line all the way around it. That way, as you drill you can see when you've gotten low enough. After you've finished with the hole saw, you will probably need to clean up the hole with a file or Dremel.
People have voiced concerns about using the lugs to hold the wheel, since the hub-centric ring is no longer supporting the weight of the car. However, the ring was never supporting much of the weight inthe first place. After all, the stock wheel slides over the hub, but is secured with self-centering lug nuts.
Plus, I've road raced a 2900lb Trans Am with 50lb 17x11 wheels for 5 years like this. I've got wheel spacers that move the wheels out to clear suspension pieces, and the wheel is no longer sitting on the hub. Never had a failure or any type of problem.
Anyway, here are some pics of the contraption that I did, plus some finished products.
THE CONTRAPTION
HOLE SAW CENTERED
NOTCHER MOUNTED TO ANGLE IRON
SEE THE HOLE I MADE?
FINISHED PRODUCT - YOU CAN STILL SEE THE ORIGINAL DIAMETER OF THE HOLE DOWN AT THE BOTTOM (the first little ledge)
THE WHEEL
