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Originally Posted by RailHomie
Wish I had this how-to when I did this a week ago! 
I was able to use a 3/8" drive ratchet with only a 13mm socket on it to get to the top pump mount bolt by sliding it between the mount and the frame.
I didn't take any of the hose clamps off, but I did end up taking the upper hose (the one that's impossible to get to on the pump) off at the intake manifold and pulled the pump and hose out, then took it off, reattached it to the new one and fed it back up to the manifold.
Also, there is a bleeder bolt on top of the intercooler that you can loosen if you take off the passenger side headlight. I did that and it took me maybe that ten minutes to fill and get the bubbles out, and that was after draining the entire system (a week later, the level is still correct). I added a bit of RedLine Water Wetter to it too. 
You have to have the car running for the pump to start too, putting the key in the run position will not work. 
I was prewarned of most of these things by searching the forum, it's great to be here!
NCState, feel free to add any of this to the how-to if you'd like. I don't mean to steal your thunder! |
I looked for the bleeder bolt but couldn't find it on mine, I'll try again.
I also wrote that you had to start the car for the pump to come on but I'll add that the run position does not work (thanks to that thread a couple of days ago...)
And thanks to both of you Railhomie and Ahriman, for your additions. I'll add them when I have a chance (before the end of the day). I was worried when I wrote this thread about including the many different ways you can go about this for getting people confused, so I stuck to how I did it. I think the vice grips were a nice common alternative to having to buy the specialty hose clamp tool and make it straight forward but I'll add it in.
I didn't think it was perfect, but it was definitely a step in the right direction for people. If anyone has anything else to add please, do so.