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Originally Posted by cavingman
your gonna need to re-write these in layman's (sp) terms, or your going to get a shatload of questions from everyone. IE: this color wire to pin 87 on relay 1, this color wire to pin 87a of relay 2 etc. trust me, we did this alot on grandamgt.com  |
Nah, shouldnt be a problem. All the wire colors are on the schematic, once you find the S/P relay (I'll post a pic) 87a is clearly marked on the small diagram printed on the side of the relay, and it's also identified on the bottom of the relay. 87a is generally only used in a 5-pin relay and is the closed switch contact when the relay is DEenergized. Pull the relay look at the bottom, identify 87a observe where THAT leg plugs into the relay connector (should be a large grey wire) Then connect one lead of an ohmeter to THAT pin (being careful not to spread the terminal) and then touch EACH of the 3 seperate wires formed by cutting splice 156 (S156) one-at-a-time. There will be only 1 with continuity. Mark that wire, then run it to a good engine ground (add 12 AWG wire and an eyelet terminal as necc) Finally splice/solder the remaining 2 grey wires back together and re-tape.
The new relays can pretty much all be done right at the wires that are connecting to S/P and FAN 2 relays mounted on the rad. One new relay to feed the LIGHT-BLUE wire to the FAN 1 motor and a second new relay to feed the large GREY wire either right on FAN 2 or at the FAN 2 relay. Just make sure they are 30A relays and you use a seperate 30A fused 12 AWG wire for the B+ feed to the relays. (You'll need likely need a butane solding iron to get enough heat to solder these to the exisiting 12 gage wires.
The hardest thing will be locating S156. Right now I'm going right off the FSM data, (which is usually 100% for harness stuff like this) but as soon as I get the chance I will physically confirm the location.
S156 is going to be actually WITHIN the conduit/taped section of the engine harness. (see pic) So it's going to take a bit of skill and confidence, to "cut-in" to get access to this. I personally use a "seam-ripper" to open up this type of harness without cutting any of the wires, but lots of people use an adjustable razor knife to carefully cut up the gap in the conduit.
I was really trying to prevent this type of detailed wiring modification, but given the way the fan circuit was wired, I couldnt determine ANY other way to do it that would be totally transparent- not set DTCs, and not putting the safety of the engine's cooling in jeapordy. Maybe there's another way, (like using the Class 2 data line for instance to command the fans) but no solution barring keeping a TECH 2 in the car (to command the fans ON) seems obvious to me.
PM / email me if questions
WopOnTour