With AND without springs

[KSC]

What I would like to hear are comments from those of you who AutoX'd with the stock springs THEN changed to A/M and continue to race. Did you notice a difference? Better times? Control?

I don't care how a lowered car looks asthetically, I don't care how smooth my ride is durring DD, and I know what A/M springs are supposed to do physically. I just wanna know how YOU feel they make the Redline (SPECIFICALLY) perform.

[FunkyStickman]

Got a set I could test for ya? LOLZORS

I really need to get back to the track for auto-x.

</postwhore>

[NoRemorse]

Originally Posted by KSC

What I would like to hear are comments from those of you who AutoX'd with the stock springs THEN changed to A/M and continue to race. Did you notice a difference? Better times? Control?

I don't care how a lowered car looks asthetically, I don't care how smooth my ride is durring DD, and I know what A/M springs are supposed to do physically. I just wanna know how YOU feel they make the Redline (SPECIFICALLY) perform.

feels great IMHO. The car doesn't roll as much (not that it did much to begin with)

It's funny, me with my FE3 sway bars and struts (he redline suspension package RPO) and eibach springs, my car does not roll at all when I swerve back an forth. The girlfirends ION with FE1 rocks back and forth like those swinging ship rides. lol.

The eibachs have roughly the same ride quality as stock, but stiffen up faster under compression. that coupled with the lower CG, the car seems to handle pretty well.

[KSC]

(not that it did much to begin with)

That's kinda what I was getting at. The stock springs seem pretty stiff on their own. Not that it's a bad thing (if you're into it), but most of the guys who lower their cars do it because it looks better or because it's just one-of-those-mods everyone runs out to do first weither the car needs it or not. I'll admit it myself the RL does have an awful lot of ugly wheel well poking through.

By your explaination it seems the stockers are pretty solid, but the Eibachs improve things overall.

[NoRemorse]

Originally Posted by KSC

....
By your explaination it seems the stockers are pretty solid, but the Eibachs improve things overall.

Yes. The Eibachs look better with out question (any springs would), but they perform better as well. For most people I feel that the stock springs performancewise are enough. For people that want the edge in an autoX, get springs. The less body roll you have, the less transfer of weight from side to side. The ess transfer, the tighter/faster corning you can get because you won't exceed the allowable fritction of the tire as quickly (ESPECIALLY if you have an open diff). For the $215 I paid (and installed them myself) I could not be happier. Looks great, performs better (but the stock is good), and feels the same.

Also, the lower/stiffer springs in the rear will allow you to launch harder as it will stop some wieght transfer to the rear wheels, keeping more force on the drive wheels

[KSC]

Exactly what I wanted to know, thanks!

edit: Wait, two more questions LOL.

I've seen this mentioned a bunch of times but everytime a different answer. Do you cut the bump stops on the Eibachs? And did the camber kit come with the Pro kit or is that seperate?

[urbanmonkeygod04]

If you get Eibachs, you will probably be happy. I'm content with my B&G's, but DAMN are they stiff. However, it definitely cuts down considerably on body motion, and it looks better as well. +1 to everything NR said, with the addendum that B&G's are painfully stiff.

[jpapa]

I just started auto-x-ing in a stock class, so I'm on the stock springs. I don't really notice the bodyroll when I'm in the middle of a run. However, last summer I got to go back and forth from an IRL (with stock springs I think) to a Solstice back to back on a course. I first drove the RL and didn't notice the bodyroll, but after getting out of the Solstice (which had pretty much NO bodyroll) and back into the IRL, I started notice a lot more bodyroll. How many times can I say bodyroll in 1 sentence?

Next auto-x season I will be upping classes after learning how to control the car this season. I will be doing suspension mods, like lowering, tower strut bar, etc. I'll be highly considering these Eibachs when that time comes.

[paulumbo]

Personally I use a "custom" spring. The Eibachs are OK for most everyone-personally I can't stand to try to set a car in a corner with a progressive rate spring. You get it stuck in the apex and just about ready to rotate and nip a bit of a bump in the corner and it just gets the car all upset. I've used the Eibachs before, however, once you get the car set and the spring compressed past a certain point, the rate goes WAY up real fast-personally I just don't like the way the car feels. For mine, I've got a set from Eaton spring-I took them the fronts and the rear srpings from my ride, had them put them on the spring dyno and we took the average of the fronts and the average from the rears and used that as our baseline. I upped the rear rate 20 pounds and the fronts 35 pounds and I dropped the ride height 5 millimeters. The car feels much much better now-my only complaint is that under moderately heavy trail braking, the tail likes to get "happy". I'm aware of it and know to stay on top of it. The daily ride is nice-firm, but forgiving. All together, with the spring dyno and making me springs to my specs, cost me a whopping grand total of $380.00

With the OE springs, you'd prolly notice more of an improvement by going with sub frame connectors and a front strut bar.

Just my .02 tho

www.eatonsprings.com

[alredline04]

Originally Posted by paulumbo

Personally I use a "custom" spring. The Eibachs are OK for most everyone-personally I can't stand to try to set a car in a corner with a progressive rate spring. You get it stuck in the apex and just about ready to rotate and nip a bit of a bump in the corner and it just gets the car all upset. I've used the Eibachs before, however, once you get the car set and the spring compressed past a certain point, the rate goes WAY up real fast-personally I just don't like the way the car feels. For mine, I've got a set from Eaton spring-I took them the fronts and the rear srpings from my ride, had them put them on the spring dyno and we took the average of the fronts and the average from the rears and used that as our baseline. I upped the rear rate 20 pounds and the fronts 35 pounds and I dropped the ride height 5 millimeters. The car feels much much better now-my only complaint is that under moderately heavy trail braking, the tail likes to get "happy". I'm aware of it and know to stay on top of it. The daily ride is nice-firm, but forgiving. All together, with the spring dyno and making me springs to my specs, cost me a whopping grand total of $380.00

With the OE springs, you'd prolly notice more of an improvement by going with sub frame connectors and a front strut bar.

Just my .02 tho

www.eatonsprings.com

I would be interested in taking your car for a spin sometime if possible