New Centerforce Clutch Release!

[El Calor]

NEW DF010249 FOR THE

2005 TO 2006

CHEVROLET COBALT SS & SATURN ION

2.0L SUPERCHARGED ENGINE

(Includes Flywheel)

Centerforce ® is proud to introduce this Dual Friction clutch assembly for 2005 to 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS and Saturn Ion with the 2.0L Supercharged engine. This new clutch assembly replaces the stock clutch & flywheel assembly with higher holding capacity pressure plate and more than five pound lighter flywheel that is designed for a direct bolt in replacement. Centerforce strives to provide the best products on the market today on all performance levels by using patented processes and constantly testing different materials and designs to find the best combination. This new application is now available as a Dual Friction® clutch assembly for use in high torque street driving and racing applications. The Dual Friction part number is DF010249 (Pressure Plate, Disc, and Flywheel). Also available for even more holding capacity is the DFX series part number 01010249 (Pressure Plate, Disc, & Flywheel included). Please contact any Centerforce dealer or Centerforce directly with questions at 928/771-8422 or visit them online at www.centerforce.com.

[mvp8839]

cool I think that this is going to kick ass as they have spent the better part of 2 years on R&D for this clutch for these cars.

[Area47]

so it's not going to shit itself above 7k and come flying apart ALA dsm style?

[mvp8839]

I wouldnt think so. sinister redlines had this clutch on his RL about 2 years ago and had nothing but good to say about it.

[ION/GONE]

Anybody know what these retail for?

[thedubsack85]

honestly this is a WASTE of money.. dual friction clutches are CRAP..cause the one side that's meant to heat up to grab more does NOT reach it's effective heat range and this heat range is 9 times out of 10 higher than the street side, basically you really never see the heat range's that the 2 sides are built for. so one side suffer's and it's never the higher temp side that's meant to be slipped. honestly this is coming from a transmission teacher at UTI.. the BEST bet for a street/strip friendly clutch is more agressive pressure plate assembly and a factory clutch disk. cause 9 times out of ten on a FWD car that is beat like this it's factory pressure plate that gives NOT the clutch.. jus my.2 cent's

[mvp8839]

Care to support your theory with proof? I completly disagree with you on the using a heavier pressure plate with a stock disk. doing so will only solve half the problem and be a temporary fix but as soon as you beat on the car the organic disk (the stock one) will heat up and glaze over. Want proof? I can show you proof and show you audio/video clip where the pros say the same thing.

Socalsilver are you going to post up vids of your stock clutch for us to see?

Ion/gone the retail is probably about a grand. call the number on the website.

[thedubsack85]

Originally Posted by mvp8839

Care to support your theory with proof? I completly disagree with you on the using a heavier pressure plate with a stock disk. doing so will only solve half the problem and be a temporary fix but as soon as you beat on the car the organic disk (the stock one) will heat up and glaze over. Want proof? I can show you proof and show you audio/video clip where the pros say the same thing.

Socalsilver are you going to post up vids of your stock clutch for us to see?

Ion/gone the retail is probably about a grand. call the number on the website.

it all depend's on the factory clutch disk.. our is an exedy unit IIRC..
how does that not make sense? if one side of this clutch is for drag and only does any good once really heated up but never get's to that heat range what's the point? you will end up with bad driveability on the street. and a glazed street side of the clutch. where as our factory clutch has been documented to holding upword's of allmost 300 WHP on a fully built SC'ed car then abused by a 380+ whp turbo build and it made it to 30k miles allmost and it was fine(where as kid's on the .net fry or sheer a clutch in under 20k it's all the driver). this is paul's turbo balt BTW and he wasnt excatly easy on that car either.
our factory clutches are not meant to be slipped. and guess what happen when you slip a dual disk and it's not up to its operating heat range? you sheer the fucking thing completely OFF. i have seen in a 3rd gen fbody. who we mad made an example of at UTI. we fixed his car and did a completely factory clutch disk and a more agressive pressure plate and he ended up cuttin time off of his 60 ft's. and could drive the car around the street. when he had his dual dick clutch his dialy drivability wasnt really there.. it was a work out to drive 40+ miles to school every day at 6am.
unless it's an all out drag car this mod is useless IMO. and also in the opinion of every UTI instructor i had in 3 different tranny classes.
IF a BIG IF you have a car that is only for drag this may be usefull cause of the ability to slip it.

[mvp8839]

Originally Posted by thedubsack85

it all depend's on the factory clutch disk.. our is an exedy unit IIRC..
how does that not make sense? if one side of this clutch is for drag and only does any good once really heated up but never get's to that heat range what's the point? you will end up with bad driveability on the street. and a glazed street side of the clutch. where as our factory clutch has been documented to holding upword's of allmost 300 WHP on a fully built SC'ed car then abused by a 380+ whp turbo build and it made it to 30k miles allmost and it was fine(where as kid's on the .net fry or sheer a clutch in under 20k it's all the driver). this is paul's turbo balt BTW and he wasnt excatly easy on that car either.
our factory clutches are not meant to be slipped. and guess what happen when you slip a dual disk and it's not up to its operating heat range? you sheer the fucking thing completely OFF. i have seen in a 3rd gen fbody. who we mad made an example of at UTI. we fixed his car and did a completely factory clutch disk and a more agressive pressure plate and he ended up cuttin time off of his 60 ft's. and could drive the car around the street. when he had his dual dick clutch his dialy drivability wasnt really there.. it was a work out to drive 40+ miles to school every day at 6am.
unless it's an all out drag car this mod is useless IMO. and also in the opinion of every UTI instructor i had in 3 different tranny classes.
IF a BIG IF you have a car that is only for drag this may be usefull cause of the ability to slip it.

I dont think your understanding my point. the organic material will slip with a high HP application. paul's clutch is slipping now if I recall correctly. I would be willing to bet that if paul were to launch his car at 3K or above that the stock clutchh would've slipped much earlier. all this talk about transmission class gives me a head ache. We could sit here and show each other paperwork all day I have lots of it. I went to school too yippidy do da. like i said swapping for a heavy pressure plate and a stock disk is a temporary fix. it will work but as soon as you try to dump the clutch as the track a couple times its going to glaze over. the material heats up and its done with material like kevlar or a ceramic or cerammetallic it will heat up and cool off with out glazing. there have already been people to try your method of stock disk and heavier pressure plates. I believe that if you have a car that is for the sole purpose of drag racing not a dual purpose car like most if not all of us then you would probably have a solid disk in addition of a stronger pressure plate and not a sprung hub like most of the aftermarket companys offer for a street strip car.

Ion gone heres the price crate engine depot has on the centerforce clutch.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...9-P1888C0.aspx

[Area47]

Originally Posted by thedubsack85

honestly this is a WASTE of money.. dual friction clutches are CRAP..cause the one side that's meant to heat up to grab more does NOT reach it's effective heat range and this heat range is 9 times out of 10 higher than the street side, basically you really never see the heat range's that the 2 sides are built for. so one side suffer's and it's never the higher temp side that's meant to be slipped. honestly this is coming from a transmission teacher at UTI.. the BEST bet for a street/strip friendly clutch is more agressive pressure plate assembly and a factory clutch disk. cause 9 times out of ten on a FWD car that is beat like this it's factory pressure plate that gives NOT the clutch.. jus my.2 cent's

id rather believe someone who didn't drop 40k to get told basic automotive knowledge than some teacher at an over priced school.

seriously.

do you know what the main cause of crank walk is? once you figure this out, you will see that the idea of a giant pressure plate is a bad idea. the pressure plate is not what increases torque capacity.