2001 R6?

[Freakazoid]

Tell me about 'em. I know the R1 has a freaking bulletproof motor and is damn nice. But what about the R6? any issues during the earlier years? 10k miles. Anything to be known about 'em? gracis fellow bikers...

[Sp00ner]

Info on used bikes in general would be nice. I was looking at some 'nice' deals on used bikes yesterday. The ZX6R (2005) was on sale at the dealer for $7400, and I know I also saw some good prices on the Yami's too...

[Tibbett]

So long as it's been maintained properly the R6 has always seemed to be a good bike. I had a 2004 that had over 13k on the clock before it was hit by a car...never had any problems out of it. The '01 model will be a carbbed bike, so make sure the carbs are cleaned and what not as per usual...if with a pipe and everything just make sure it's been re-jetted properly..

[Freakazoid]

Well the way I do used bike searching is personally I won't mess with one with more than 10k miles on it or so unless I know the person. There's too many variables and too many possible issues.

Sp00ner big thing to realize if you're looking for the ever so slightly used bikes that are basically still new, is to realize they take a MASSIVE price drop. ESPECIALLY when like what you just referenced, is a different bike COMPLETELY. asking 7400 for a used old model bike imo is just way overkill, when you can get a brand new, new model for a 1000 more. Tip to you, don't use KBB motorcycle pricing if you're looking for used, it's completely off. Instead using NADA, the 'average' one is more like a 'high' price for most bikes, where it's really low mileage, good shape, etc etc

In my personal experience, Yamaha's are less to maintain, so to me that automatically converts to it being a better motor/etc, yes might be skewed logic, but when I don't have to do the damn valve checks every 6k miles, and instead do it every 26k miles, i much prefer that.


Used bikes imo are easier and more of a bitch to shop for than cars both simultaneously.

Imo, if you're going used, stay away from any 'big' dealers. They'll screw you. Stick with bikes under 10k miles or so (less than 3 oil changes), meet the person that is selling the bike, and notice how old they are, etc. If they're passionate about the bikes, and are older 20's, 30s, 40s, etc. They probably took care of the bike.. Same thing as a car but for a bike it's MUCH more of an issue imo. If it's a young kid with an r6/r1/zx-6rr/cbr600/etc, he could have been a stunter, and you don't want a stunted bike, that's for sure, especially if you're not a motorcycle mechanic. And you're also not going to want a bike that's been to the track all the time. Which is once again why I stick to older riders.
Younger riders could be stunters and track goers, better 'odds' of that. Low miles might seem nice when the kid is 20, but those low miles could have been all wheelie miles.

Biggest way to tell if the bike was ridden hard? learn how many miles the bike should get for the tires (through forums, etc), and then ask when they were replaced. If most people get 8k miles of the tires, and they replaced them at 5k. The bike was ridden HARD.


Bikes are surprisingly long lasting for what people give them credit for, assuming they're taken care of well. The reason why most bikes hit their end of their lives, isn't because of engine failure, but because of salvage titles, totalling, etc.

[Sp00ner]

I still think I'll go with the new 250 for this year. It's REAL cheap, and will cost almost less for me to buy, make payments on, and maintan, than driving to work each day. Hell, it costs $7/day for the train even. $140/month. Driving is around $200/month. Bike + Gas should be almost the same as taking the train. Of course, that's not including insurance. Take the maintenance for the car and cut it in half, and I think it's almost breaking even. Close enough to sell me anyway.

[Freakazoid]

Originally Posted by Sp00ner

I still think I'll go with the new 250 for this year. It's REAL cheap, and will cost almost less for me to buy, make payments on, and maintan, than driving to work each day. Hell, it costs $7/day for the train even. $140/month. Driving is around $200/month. Bike + Gas should be almost the same as taking the train. Of course, that's not including insurance. Take the maintenance for the car and cut it in half, and I think it's almost breaking even. Close enough to sell me anyway.

if you're commuting with the 250, you might wanna think about some sprocket/gearing changing to get some sweet ass gas mileage

[Sp00ner]

Originally Posted by Freakazoid

if you're commuting with the 250, you might wanna think about some sprocket/gearing changing to get some sweet ass gas mileage

Most of my commute is under 60 mph, does that still apply? Would you go up or down on that? You're effectively changing the final drive correct?

[Freakazoid]

Originally Posted by Sp00ner

Most of my commute is under 60 mph, does that still apply? Would you go up or down on that? You're effectively changing the final drive correct?

yea that's basically the end result you're looking for. If you're going at a constant speed for any distance I'd really recommend it simply for the gas savings (That's the way you could get the claimed 75 mpg). You'll notice you'll have to put a little more effort off the line, but you'll be alright. Personally that's the only reason I'd keep the 250 for the long run (i.e. longer than a year) is for the gas savings. Heck you do that and you'll start running 2 bikes for a long period of time (the fast fun bike and the 250 commuter).


Since you're under 60 continually i'd probably recommend not as an extreme gear change, but definitely still recommended if you're nto doing much accelerating.

[moparangel]

yall have managed to bable for 8 posts with out shlumpybird posting. way to go, your on a role.

In any case, any bike you drive, the gas mileage is determined by how hard you drive, and stopping and going, like bumper to bumper trafic, especially uphill. that sucks.