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Old 07-29-2008, 09:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Periodic
Can you explain this a bit further......for some reason I am thinkin sway bar mounts at the frame, which only have one bolt...and am thinking you solid welded, or dual bolted them to the chassis.....PM if this is a thread jack...more for personal interest on the matter
the car power hops. the biggest single reason, is that at ride hieght there is a 17 degree included angle, trans out put shaft to axle inner cv, to hub axle center line outer cv. The Grand Am race cars rotate the motor up at the back down at the front to bring the axles in line and have no axle hop. The grand am race cars are bushed in UHMW and the vibration sucks, but on race cars no one cares. I did that for the street but could not stand the vibration for longer than one day. Back in our shop with my best buddy Kiwi, we developed a new set up that replaces only one mount, and still rotates the motor. no vibes, no power hop.

Shabodah who has been talking to me on line about this with polite interest and patience ( I have been dicking around with getting down to it for months ) well he should get the first set (other than mine) at the end of the week as i perfect the build process...

this deal on power hop is not new i am the person that figured out how to fix it building cobalt race cars, and i can take credit for the idea of the root cause, but not the solution, the GM engineers worked that out. what is new is a vibration free solution that stands up to street use and 200 track miles at Mosport last week. the sway bars dont contribute to wheel hop...does this help? thanks for the interest...
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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How interesting.
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'd be all over it - if it was D-stock or STX legal, which it's not.

Word on the street is poly motor and trans mounts help, FE5 arms help, traction bars help, torque braces help. I can do the mounts and the arms in STX, so hopefully it helps enough, lol. In any event, a 2.5 lb lighter yet significantly stronger/stiffer lower control arm certainly can't HURT, lol.

FAIL to GM engineers for designing such a wacked axle system in the first place and then exacerbating the problem with weak ass axles.

FAIL to GM again for then specifically refusing to fix them under warranty.

FAIL AGAIN to GM for stating that the reason for said refusal is that breakage is caused by abusive driving and not a design flaw - in a car that can get wheel hop with a moderate street launch in 1st if you're not careful - and then fixing the problem they claim didn't exist in the new generation car.

Not that I'm bitter...
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"Sally" - 2005 Ion Redline Comp Pack - no significant mods yet - SCCA dark horse, DS is the new GS!

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Old 07-30-2008, 06:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwikredline11
the car power hops. the biggest single reason, is that at ride hieght there is a 17 degree included angle, trans out put shaft to axle inner cv, to hub axle center line outer cv. The Grand Am race cars rotate the motor up at the back down at the front to bring the axles in line and have no axle hop. The grand am race cars are bushed in UHMW and the vibration sucks, but on race cars no one cares. I did that for the street but could not stand the vibration for longer than one day. Back in our shop with my best buddy Kiwi, we developed a new set up that replaces only one mount, and still rotates the motor. no vibes, no power hop.

Shabodah who has been talking to me on line about this with polite interest and patience ( I have been dicking around with getting down to it for months ) well he should get the first set (other than mine) at the end of the week as i perfect the build process...

this deal on power hop is not new i am the person that figured out how to fix it building cobalt race cars, and i can take credit for the idea of the root cause, but not the solution, the GM engineers worked that out. what is new is a vibration free solution that stands up to street use and 200 track miles at Mosport last week. the sway bars dont contribute to wheel hop...does this help? thanks for the interest...
Thanks for the explanation. . .

..on a side note, did you do anything with the sway bar mounts? For some reason I think I remember you saying you modded them in a way. . .was trying to put 2+2 together..but got 3.
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2004 Saturn Ion Redline
  • GO - GMPP Stage II, K&N Typhoon
  • VELCRO - Eibach Pro-kit, Progress Rear Anti-Sway Bar, Coppertop_01's subframe brace, PowerGridInc sway-bar end links, Falken Azenis RT-615s (215/40/17)
  • SLOW- Hawks HPS pads front and rear, Powerslot slotted rotors front and rear
  • SHOW- Autometer Ultra-lite II Boost Gauge w/ home-made column pod, tinted sides/tails, blacked out headlights, RKSport 3pc Spoiler
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Old 07-30-2008, 07:26 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Periodic
Thanks for the explanation. . .

..on a side note, did you do anything with the sway bar mounts? For some reason I think I remember you saying you modded them in a way. . .was trying to put 2+2 together..but got 3.
That is interesting 'cause i did/do for the race cars at the time (T2 Ion) but on mine, (blue redlines are faster) Ihave not done anything to them single tab fixing and it is still good so far. imagine the sway bar pillow block with two bolts to secure it. The Ion has a tab on one end it slips under the cradle wall like a cardboard box tab, and then the other side is bolted down. We just welded in an extra nut in the cradle instead of the tab and used a cobalt mount with two holes/two bolts.

Also at that time in 2004 the test car we built had no end of trouble with axle boots failing (it was the grease they said, no it wasnt i used racers tape to finish a test session once wrapping the boot!) but anyway,I have had none of that in my IOn and it was a 2.4 coupe at first not a redline (built from a wreck so I am a pretender on this forum altho i do have Recaro seats) and my boots have been 100%. So go figure hope this helps....Most of the engineers at GM are first class it is so sad to see the General in trouble, I will continue to buy GM and hope for the best, but some folks are dicks and the same percentage of dicks exist at GM thats life...short cuts etc, which leads to some of the irritating stuff on your Redline but i still think they rock big time I love driving mine its a blast...
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