Eagle GT's Reducing Wheel Hop

[golden chicken]

also after some consideration, if you mean that at a certain level of acceleration your car used to hop and at the same level with new tires it now doesn't hop or spin, then that would be a sign of a stickier tire.

maybe that's where we all got confused-what is meant by "reduced"

[RedlineNoob]

Originally Posted by qwikredline11

I would say try Falken 452 drift tires but i got them, (18's) and they are useless and you can still get trace hop even with my mounts depending on surface, so not only no grip AWFUL lateral grip on the race track NO balance, USELESS on snow, and in the wet so i say FIX the problem even no grip tires wont help in some instances. Aaron.

Is your name aaron? or are you just saying my name?

All I was saying with the stock tires if i was sitting at 0mph reved it the same as the video and dropped the clutch the car would wheel hop so hard it would sound like there was a giant hitting my car with a huge hammer.

With the new tires they seem to have the same traction. They pull very hard before they break loose. And when they break loose they dont hop.

[Tennpenn83]

Originally Posted by golden chicken

also after some consideration, if you mean that at a certain level of acceleration your car used to hop and at the same level with new tires it now doesn't hop or spin, then that would be a sign of a stickier tire.

maybe that's where we all got confused-what is meant by "reduced"

that's exactly what i was thinking

[qwikredline11]

Originally Posted by Tennpenn83

that's exactly what i was thinking

root cause: from the Cobalt phase 5 build book:

Four solid engine mounts are used at the engine and
transmission. These mounts tilt the engine forward in the
chassis for proper alignment with the axles when the
vehicle is lowered. (Figs. 173-175) These engine mounts
were fabricated by Roush Industries.

[Cat Ion]

Originally Posted by qwikredline11

root cause: from the Cobalt phase 5 build book:

Four solid engine mounts are used at the engine and
transmission. These mounts tilt the engine forward in the
chassis for proper alignment with the axles when the
vehicle is lowered. (Figs. 173-175) These engine mounts
were fabricated by Roush Industries.

Stupid question.....are the BWoody mounts set up to fix this? I bought those a little bit ago. I noticed from the get-go (aside from the vibes) that the car does have a very smooth transition now. I get no hop. If I nail it I get spin (on stock Dunlops). If I work the clutch and then nail it, the car runs like a raped ape! I was very impressed with the change in grip to surface after installing them. Is this a symptom of simply using solid mounts or did they make the correction you are referring to?

[qwikredline11]

Originally Posted by Cat Ion

Stupid question.....are the BWoody mounts set up to fix this? I bought those a little bit ago. I noticed from the get-go (aside from the vibes) that the car does have a very smooth transition now. I get no hop. If I nail it I get spin (on stock Dunlops). If I work the clutch and then nail it, the car runs like a raped ape! I was very impressed with the change in grip to surface after installing them. Is this a symptom of simply using solid mounts or did they make the correction you are referring to?

symptom of solid mounts with no correction. Its nice that the stage 5 copied what we found, but why would they not? GM purchased some parts from us back in 05 and we shipped to roush, - mounts and flca and stuff and why not.

As an aside, for many things it is easier to either copy or buy stuff from vendors. For example, we buy an accusump kit from a vendor for about a 1000 bucks, and we can make it ourselves for maybe 100 bucks less; so its an easy decision, less screwing around, go buy it.

I think the same thing applies to some other parts like projector headlights for example. You can buy it for 600-900 bucks or do it your self for 600-90 bucks! Doing it yourself the first time means inevitably you will make mistakes etc.


These vibration free mounts we do that **** sell, really work, and they put all the other stuff on the trailer. Just solid however like the Drag race stuff Roush do, and the road racing stuff we make, has unrelenting vibes. MY latest solution takes care of the vibes...every customer so far is delighted, but it is SLOW getting cores back so I have had to buy more mounts and they are not in yet. Its simply not economic to go machine new mounts on a ones and twozies basis...but then that holds up new sales, so you know what? Its a PITA.

Imagine how easy it is to bang out some poly crap, stick an alloy tube in the middle and ship it out and say go ahead solid mounts! And by the way comes in three colors! I mean who really cares what color something is buried underneath the engine compartment that no one can see without crawling around on their backs? Yikes! end of morning rant...

[Dainslaif]

To expand on what Qwik said,

Originally Posted by Cat Ion

Stupid question.....are the BWoody mounts set up to fix this? I bought those a little bit ago. I noticed from the get-go (aside from the vibes) that the car does have a very smooth transition now. I get no hop. If I nail it I get spin (on stock Dunlops). If I work the clutch and then nail it, the car runs like a raped ape! I was very impressed with the change in grip to surface after installing them. Is this a symptom of simply using solid mounts or did they make the correction you are referring to?

The mounts in the built cobalt have do two things; rotate the engine and have it bolted to the frame. Having Bwoody mounts in the car effectively does the second of those two mods (keeps the engine/tranny more steady), while Qwik/****'s product does the first of those two mods (rotates the engine forward, aligning the axles better).

I don't really understand the science of it all, so Qwik would be better able to explain what's actually happening. All I know is it rotates the trans which allows the axles to line up better, which somehow reduces the hop, but I've never paid enough attention to my axles to know wtf he's talking about.

[nbg401]

Great information about the solid mounts...
If your hoping you are going forward but not very fast and if your spinning you are moving even slower. The best thing to do is to learn the power band and how to feather the throttle. That will eliminate wheel hop and spin. and from what I gather for what I read earlier solid motor mounts help out a lot, too.

[Cat Ion]

Originally Posted by qwikredline11

These vibration free mounts we do that **** sell, really work, and they put all the other stuff on the trailer. Just solid however like the Drag race stuff Roush do, and the road racing stuff we make, has unrelenting vibes. MY latest solution takes care of the vibes...every customer so far is delighted, but it is SLOW getting cores back so I have had to buy more mounts and they are not in yet. Its simply not economic to go machine new mounts on a ones and twozies basis...but then that holds up new sales, so you know what? Its a PITA.

So are you saying you need OEM mounts to make the rotated mounts? Still a bit confused. Let me say this. I, so far, like the BWoody mounts. If you are using the OEM ones to alter them for the proper axis rotation, what would I be looking at to send you mine to have them done? Or am I missing something here?

[Periodic]

^^listening...

great information john!