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Here's my contribution to the forum. I feel that this can be accomplished by anyone with the right tools, time, & patience.
A couple things first, I don't have any torque specs so if someone feels this is important & can supply them, I'll edit this. I didn't use any thread locker as none of the bolts seems to have it but given the vibrations, it might not be a bad idea. Tools needed: -Ramps or jackstands -Jack -Rachet & 5/8", 3/4", & 15mm sockets & 18mm deep socket -3 or 4" & 12" driver extensions -18mm wrench or adj. wrench -A breaker bar could also be helpful but I managed without. -Adj. bar clamp (see front trans). Time: Allow yourself 4hrs to play it safe. Install should be 2-3hrs depending upon issues encountered. Step 1) Use ramps or jack-up car & use jack stands then use a padded jack to support the trans close to rear trans mount. Step 2) Rear trans. Single bolt is 18mm & needs 3 or 4" extension & triple bolts are 15mm. I removed the single bolt then the triple. Contrary to appearance, you can remove the mount w/o removing the bracket it connects to mounted on the trans. Install in reverse process & leave triple bolts a little lose.  Step 3) Front trans. Again, use jack to support trans close to front trans mount. All bolts 18mm but top bolt requires wrech due to airbox clearance issue (airbox at top of image) & bottom 2 can use socket or wench. Remove bolts in any order but might be a good idea to loosen all a bit before removing any. When installing new mount, insert top-most bolt into mount before applying as clearing airbox is difficult. I threaded this bolt 1st, then the lower-front, then the bushing bolt. This was the hardest mount as it's difficult to get everything to line up, even with repositioning the jack. I ended up having to use an adjustable bar clamp to pull the engine/trans to the passenger side to get the bushing bolt in & again to be able to thread it. After you have the new mount on, go back & tighten the triple bolts on the rear trans mount.   Step 4) Front engine. Support engine with jack. Triple bolts on engine portion are 5/8". Frame-side bolts are 18mm (needs deep socket with extension & unless you're a brute, a breaker bar would be handy). Bushing bolt on solid mount is 3/4". Remove triple bolts on engine portion. Remove frame-side bolts. Notice sponginess of stock mount. Reverse for installing solid mount.  It can also be handy to have a Collie assistant to keep you company.   COMMENTS: I know there's already a very good review by thewastedyears but another can't hurt. First off, SOLID MOUNTS ARE NOT FOR EVERYONE!!! If your IRL is a daily driver, they might not be for you. If you're concerned about comfort, they're definatly not for you. They cause severe, very loud vibrations, especially at start-up, in lower gears, accelleration (seeing a trend?). I haven't tested with the A/C on but Wasted says that causes more vibes. The center gauge pod seems to vibrate the most & you can almost forget about using your rearview mirror. I haven't had a disc skip yet. Now, I'm not one to go around doing burnouts so I can't comment too much on that but I notice a lot more tire spinning just from driving around. I don't think there's any wheel hop, though, but I also have the traction bars so I doubt I could induce any. I did notice that when I opened it up to get on the freeway, I managed a 3rd gear scratch!  At some point, I might try swapping the stock front engine mount back in to see if that reduces the vibes w/o affect the benefit of the solid mounts too much. B.Woody, I don't know if softer bushings would work better. I think the greater problem with the stock mounts is the range of travel allowed as opposed to their softness. I had the GoofyGuy torque brace on prior but it honestly didn't help too much & when I was doing this install, I noticed one of the mounting brackets for it was bent (& I don't drive my car that hard). Thanks to B.Woody for the product & for the basic install info. |
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Sp00ner
on
09-23-2006, 02:38 PM
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Torque Specs from my_bd
I found that removing and installing the rear tranny mount is much easier, faster, less fiddly if you also remove the 3 bolts that hold the rear tranny bracket to the transaxle. it makes it easier to maneuver the old mount out and the new one into place, and then to realign everything.
The bracket has a wire/connector attached which you don't need to disconnect as long as you keep the bracket up in that general area, no need to take it right out. I torque all bolts to factory specs rear transaxle mount thru-bolt (single bolt) 66 ft/lb rear transaxle mount to subframe (3 bolts) 44 ft/lb rear transaxle mount bracket to transaxle (3 bolts) 41 ft/lb front transaxle mount thru-bolt 41 ft/lb front transaxle mount to transaxle (2 bolts) 41 ft/lb Engine mount to mid-rail (2 nuts) 74 ft/lb Engine mount to intermediate bracket (3 bolts) 37 ft/lb BWoody engine mount through bolt ??? ft/lb reference http://manual.lsjowners.com/trans/mu3fast.htm http://manual.lsjowners.com/engine/fasten_4.htm |
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socalsilverRL
on
10-03-2006, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
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socalsilverRL
on
10-27-2006, 12:46 PM
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Getting ready to do another install,
Just wanted to throw this out there, now that I have installed the mounts on a few cars...('04, '05, '06) We noticed its easier to install the front transmission mount FIRST, then change the rear trans mount. If you want to know why/how we know this, send a PM to Fullthrottle...lol Last edited by socalsilverRL; 10-27-2006 at 12:49 PM. |
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socalsilverRL
on
11-13-2006, 04:30 PM
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ok...just another FYI...
The front trans mount pretty hard to put in there IF YOU HAVE THE STOCK AIR BOX. The top bolt is hard to access with a standard socket, you must have either a 18mm open end wrench, or a VERY shallow 18mm socket. If you dont have either, a 3/4" wrench will work, but it will round off the bolt. |
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