First, some pictures to show what you'll be needing


A jack with jack stands. If you can get 3 stands that's optimal, otherwise just make sure the jack doesn't give out (quickly or slowly) when you leave weight on it for a long time. Also make sure you have a socket wrench and (optional, but makes things easier) 3-4" extension.

3/4", 11/16", and 5/8" sockets

A tube of 3M windo-weld or other Urethane filler. One tube can fill both of the mounts in this document.

First, start off by jacking up the car (in the right places) and supporting it with the jack stands

This picture shows where I placed the stands and 3 of the bolts you'll need to access (so don't place jacks around them)

Next, we'll tackle the front mount. Looking down into the engine bay, here's what you'll see:


When you get under the car and front mount, remove the highlighted bolts (left and right sides)

As well as the bolt you could see when looking down onto the mount from the top of the engine bay

Now find a place to support the engine that will be out of your way while removing the rear mount. Here's where I put my jack:

This is one of those "do as I say, not as I do" moments. You should never use a jack to support a large weight for an extended period of time. It is much better to have a jack stand do this for you. However I'm a cheap bastard and jacks only come in sets

Now when you slide back in there, you'll see the 2nd mount as well as the side-bolt that needs to come out:

And the three bolts on the bottom that I highlighted earlier


Remove all the attachings. MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS SUPPORTED. As you take out the side bolt of this rear mount, your engine will "settle" and come down a bit, so make sure nothing slips out or it won't be good.

When you're all done w/ this one, you can take them both out:


Now just fill the inner parts with the urethane from the tube and let sit for a good 60 hours. I let mine go for 72 and they were rock hard. You will definitely notice a difference in hardness from 24-48 hours so I suggest absolutely no less than 48.




Keep in mind that air bubbles in the injected urethane will expand and contract w/ the temperature and make your molds crack and fall out. For this reason, stick as close as you can to "injecting" the urethane into the mounts vs "layering" it in there as you go around and around. By using injection you'll avoid any bubbles. Also, some have suggested doing this in layers with 3-4hr between sessions, not a bad idea, but I didn't do that (cuz I can't wait that long w/ something unfinished).

When you're done, reverse steps to install the mounts back in, and fire up your car! if all is well, when you start up, and at low idle (< 1000rpm) you'll notice a SIGNIFICANT amount of vibration throughout the chassis. However at speed I have noticed nothing out of the ordinary.


Go me for my first how-to w/ cars! (I'm a computer geek!)

Oh, also make sure not to allow the urethane to come out any further than any of the steel of the mount's original construction. If it does, you'll have a bitch of a time getting it back into its spot

nice how to man, definately seems easy.

Should add now, since "experts" have decided to come forward on my original thread of how to go about getting this done, that some advise the removal or extreme cleaning (sanding) of the rubber on the interior part of the motor mount before filling it. Here's a link to my original thread in case any more "experts" would like to come along and offer retroactive advice.

Filling mounts this weekend!

Hey! I gave my advice before you did it!

hey i didnt see the post man till later sorry...lol just tryin to help you out. did you ever look on mcmastercarr? the stuff is a liquid and works great. i can get you the page so you dont have to search for hours like i did when i found it the 1st time...lol easy way to do the mounts with liquid pm me... later jason

after a while you have to refill them agian i did mine about 6 months ago and the urethane cranks and comes loose and also the car will shake alot at idle