Tools Required:
- 3/8" Ratchet (and/or stubby ratchet for convenience)
- 3/8" - 6" (minimum) extension
- 10mm 3/8 drive socket
- 3/8" - 5/8 plug (deep) socket
- Torx 30 (T-30) 3/8" socket (or hand tool)

Optional Tools:
- Torq wrench
- Needle nose pliers

1) Use the Torx (T-30) to unscrew the (4) screws holding the spark plug cover on the Cam Cover.
IMG_2029.jpg

2) Use the 10mm socket to unscrew the (4) plug coil packs.
IMG_2035.jpg

3) Pull each coil pack straight up and out of the cylinder - taking note of #4 (I usually just disconnect it from the harness altogether, rather than twisting it out - pinch the bottom of the connector until it starts to slide out/off and remove)
IMG_2036.jpg

4) Use the 6" extension with the plug socket attached to unscrew each plug, being careful to align the socket down in the cylinder and breaking the plug loose slowly.
IMG_2039.jpg
(once loose enough, I hand loosen the plug the rest of the way and lift straight up - if/when using a spark plug socket, the plug will stick/seat in the rubber found inside the socket...otherwise, you'll need a needle nose pliers to pull the socket out).

5) Put the plug in the socket and lower it into the cylinder.
IMG_2040.jpg
(I prefer to hand start the plug into the threads, so as to avoid stripping/cross-threading the plug/head...)
When hand tight, 1/4 turn should be enough to crush the washer and properly seat the plug in place.

6) Repeat the process in reverse order to button everything up...done!
(that wasn't so hard, was it?)


Torque Specs:
- Coil Pack Screw -> 8 N or 71 inch lbs
- Plugs -> 15 ft lbs

Well I didn't plan on changing my plugs today but I had some extra time and saw mgm1979's "how-to" so I decided to do it. How to was dead on, very easy to follow. Like he said just snap the connector off of the 4th plug and it makes removing the casing a lot easier. Here is a pic of my old plugs.

plugs0001.JPG

Good job mgm!

Good write up. I like to loosen the plugs one turn and blow out the hole with compessed air to remove any dirt or oil that may have collected at the bottom.

Pierre

Very nice and well done How-to!

what a coincidence, i just swapped mines. rich ftl lol

coil pac screws are 8 N or 71 inch lbs

plugs are 15 ftlbs

mgm, Anti Seize isn't needed here?

Some use it, some don't...I never have - I'm paranoid about dropping something into the cylinder like that.

Ok good. I've heard some bad things about it concerning over torquing and what not. Also once you use it you have to use it everytime.

The use of anti-seize is not recommended as it can not only get onto the firing end of the plug and cause misfires but the main concern is that it acts as a lubricant during installation and can easily cause the p;ug to be over-tightened even if your seeing the correct torque reading on your torque wrench.

The trivalent zinc-chromate coating that is on each NGK spark plug is all that is needed to prevent corrosion and seizure and anti-seize is NOT applied at the factory. Torque also goes a long way in preventing seizure. Be sure to tighten to finger tight plus an additional 1/2 to 2/3 a turn or to 18-21 lb-ft


Brandon Peeler
Technical Support Representative
Aftermarket Division
NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), INC.
46929 Magellan Dr.
Wixom, MI 48393
Bpeeler@ngksparkplugs.com