Since there were no good guides on how to do this, and since I was tackling it blind, I made a small guide to help people with installing a wideband on our cars. Complete with pictures.



So, before we begin:

Time required: 1-2 hours
Tools Required
---------------------------
Soldering Iron
(4) Round terminal ends
Electrical Tape
(Optional) Shrink Wrap
Zip ties (At least 6)
Ramps, a jack and jackstands, or ab]B lift.
A buddy (recommended)
10mm Socket
Small cutters
Large Flat screwdriver to remove fuse panel
Fuse Puller (from your fuse box under your hood)
---------------------------

Step One: The wiring

Lay out your LC1 wideband, it should have seven wires coming out of it. The brown/yellow wires are your wideband outputs, we will not need those for now. Put them aside. What we're focusing on first are the Blue, white, green, and black wires. My iron is a small butane soldering iron, and an easy button. Gotta have an easy button.


Take the blue, white, and green wires and slide a round terminal over the end of the wire. Solder the terminal to the wire with a soldering iron. Once soldered, set them aside, they should looks like below.


Now, take the black wire, solder the positive end of your LED light to the black wire. Once cooled, either heatshrink, or electrical tape off this connection so no metal is showing. Now, solder the black end of your LED to one of the ends on your push-button switch. Again, shrinkwrap or tape this connection. Finally, you put a round terminal end on the only open end of the switch. It should look like below.
Note: If you wanted the led/switch to be visible, you'd have to set them in the panel you wanted them to be in before soldering. Since they aren't used as part of the wideband's regular function (only calibration) I chose to have them hidden inside my panel with the rest of the wiring.


Great, you've now got all four grounds with terminals on them. Time to move on to the sensor itself.


Find the O2 plug in your exhaust, it should look something like this. Remove the plug, and screw in your sensor. Tighten it enough to crush the crush washers, it doesnt need to be hercules tight.


Attach sensor to LC1 module, and zip-tie LC1 module into place. This is the location I used. It sits ~1" above the frame, so there is no chance of damaging the wiring or the module.


And a better view of the mounting. I used 3 zip-ties to make sure it wasnt moving anywhere.


Now, take your wiring coming from the LC1 harness, and snake it behind the hard lines shown here. There is plenty of space. I highlighted where the wires are in the picture.


Once you get this far, just let the wiring hang. We need to go inside the car before we can go any farther. Open your door, and look behind your pedals. Behind the clutch, you will see a large rubber grommet plug, with some wiring coming out of it. Pull on an edge of the grommet (this may take some force) and pull the grommet into your car. Cut a small notch in the grommet plug for your wiring (not shown in pics)


Okay, now return to being beneath your car. If you have a buddy, have him stay inside the car, so he can grab the wires you're about to snake through the hole you just created by moving that grommet. Snake the wires into the car. The hole is next to the steering shaft, that makes it easy to find.


Now have your buddy pull the wires through, or do it yourself, enough to remove all the slack on the wires so there's nothing loose in your engine bay.


Once the majority of the slack is removed, zip-tie the wiring to the hard lines in the engine bay so there is no chance of them getting stuck to the steering shaft


Great! The underhood part of this installation is OVER! Its all gravy now.
Open your drivers door, and to the right of your pedals is a fuse panel. Use a big flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic screw in the rear, and remove the panel. Behind it is a fusebox, and two 10mm nuts. Use your 10mm socket to remove the two nuts.


Now, once nuts are removed, place blue wire terminal end over top stud. Put nut on, and tighten. Now place the white, green, and black wires over the bottom stud, and tighten the nut. It should now look like this.


Now, remove the 15a fuse shown in the picture below with the fuse puller from your main fuse box. (It's a small white piece) Cut the hard end off of your red wire with some cutters, and strip the wire so you have some loose wire strands showing. place the strands over the lower hole where the fuse pushes in; and use the fuse holder to push the fuse in over the wire. This should hold the wire into place. Now you have a switched power source.


Final Step
Hit your easy button. "That was easy!"

You are DONE! Connect your wideband outs to whatever you wish (I didnt, I juse use the digital out) if needed, and replace fuse panel with all wiring behind it. Replace grommet back into hole. If you run the wires out of the grommet hole and under the carpeting behind the pedals, they will be invisible in your interior. Follow the LC1 calibration instructions, and start monitoring!



Success!

Should not have made all the grounds go to the same place. It will not be as accurate. The ground for the signal wires need to be isolated from the system ground, due to the ground offset.

None the less, VERY clean

+1 on the keeping wires away from the steering shaft.

No, there is definately no story to be told here. So don't ask.

The system ground is the OBD-2 connector when your logging digitally through hptuners. All that innovate specifies is that the heater ground is in its own spot as opposed to the other grounds, but needs to remain closeby. This is as good as it gets.

Nice write-up. I especially liked the easy button.

ugh this is gonna sound so stupid...but what does this do? erm i shouldnt have asked

Great write up!

Efforts like this is why this forum is so awsome!!!!!!!!!

Did you delete all your pics?!

bump for pic fix

spinner no longer has the car, so I don't think this is gonna happen guys