How to install lowering springs


Tools Needed:
- 19mm socket
- 18mm socket
- Ratchet or Breaker Bar
- Jack
- Jack Stands
- Torque Wrench
- Blocks for wheels
- Hacksaw or Razor Blade


NOTE: I used the Progress springs on my install.

Before:




Rear:

NOTE: The rear of the car needs to be fully in the air with no weight/pre load on the suspension!! (A hoist/lift would come in handy, but this CAN be done in your driveway)

1. Block the front wheels so the car can't roll!!!!

2. Jack up the rear & have on jackstands


3. Remove the rear wheels using the 19mm socket


4. Locate the 18mm upper shock bolt


5. Undo the 18mm upper shock bolt (using a jack under the rear control arm helps to remove it easier)


6. Remove the jack (if you used it).......Now you should be able to press down (or kick, if needed) to release the spring (it WILL NOT shoot out at you)


7. Now you can wiggle/pull the stock spring from the bottom mount of the rear control arm & this is what you have


8. This is what the stock spring looks like. You will have to transfer the top & bottom plastic pieces to your new spring (they snap right in/out).
NOTE: If you need to cut the bump stops per instructions or something (which I DIDN'T, but this is when you would do it). Probably only need to trim the rear bumpstops if you're installing the Sprint springs (trim 1/2" per zfactor).


9. After you've transferred the stock plastic pieces to your new spring, now you can slide it into the lower rear control arm


10. Line the top up spring insert as well, then use a floor jack under the control arm to line up the rear shock to the upper mounting point (gotta jiggle it left or right), & then insert the bolt and tighten it down


11. Torque down to specs!

12. Repeat for the other side

13. GET AN ALIGNMENT!!!!!!



Enjoy!!!




Torque Specs: Thanks to WopOnTour

Ball Joint to Control Arm Nut and Bolts 68 N·m 50 lb ft

Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut
First Pass- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Reverse Nut- 3/4 turn
Second Pass-50 N·m + 30° (37 lb ft + 30°)

Control Arm to Front Frame Bolts- 66 N·m (49 lb ft)

Control Arm to Rear Frame Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° ( 74 lb ft + 180°)

Frame to Chassis Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° (74 lb ft + 180°)

Intermediate Shaft Pinch Bolt- 34 N·m (25 lb ft)

Stabilizer Link to Strut Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Stabilizer Shaft Clamp Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)

Stabilizer Shaft Link to Stabilizer Bar Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Strut Assembly to Steering Knuckle Nut- 120 N·m (89 lb ft)

Strut Cap Screws- 14 N·m (124 lb in)

Strut Cap to Body Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Strut Shaft Nuts- 70 N·m (52 lb ft)

Tie Rod to Knuckle Nut- 60 N·m (44 lb ft)

Transmission Mount Through Bolt- 100 N·m (74 lb ft)

Transmission Mount to Frame Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)

Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Mounting Bolts- 115 N·m (85 lb ft)

So you jack up the back end and put bricks or something under the front? My driveway slopes toward the street, so should I park my car with the front end toward the street or what?

what brand springs were u using during this swap? i wanted eicbach pro kit but was told the b&g set was a better overall set for handling and ride

yea if u dont the car will roll forward because the parking bark is on the back wheels, however if you leave it in gear it wont roll forward. But a brick or a piece of wood, would be very helpful so you dont roll

noob question: why would you need to cut the bump stops?

Yeah like Matt said, it shouldn't matter which way you park it.....just be sure to block the front wheels to keep it from moving/rolling!!

Ideally, you'd probably wanna do this on level ground to make it easier/safer (like when using the jack & jackstands) for stability

Progress springs....for $166 SHIPPED the price is right!

They give the perfect drop & ride awesome

(B&G's will be lower & ride hard--per urbanmonkeygod04 & the Eibachs sit lower in the rear but that's your decision)

where'd you order from for that price?

To allow for full travel since you have a shorter spring in there now (hence the car is lower). You don't want the car to be riding on the bump stops or else it'll be a VERY harsh ride & just not a smart thing overall.

For the fronts, it's standard/mandatory that you cut the bump stops so you don't bottom the strut out.

For the rears it's optional & probably not needed.....Zfactor (who wrote the other write up) said that the B&G's didn't need to be cut (which sit lower than my Progress ones), but the Sprints (which are the lowest spring available) do need to be trimmed a little...1/2"

From www.neverenoughauto.com

Here's a link:
http://www.neverenoughauto.com/index...roduct_id=2577

These springs are hard to find & always sell out. They were listing sets every week on ebay before, but they haven't been lately......so I dunno if they sold out again.

Call them up & ask!
Super fast shipping & they're an authorized Progress dealer