How to install lowering springs

Tools Needed:
- 19mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm socket
- E-8 socket
- Ratchet or Breaker Bar
- Hammer
- Jack
- Jack stands
- PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench
- Torque Wrench
- Hack Saw or Razor Blade
- Blocks for wheels

Optional:
- Impact Gun
- Spring Compressors



NOTE: I used the Progress springs on my install.



Front:

1. Block the rear wheels

2. Jack up the fronts & put on jackstands



3. Remove the front wheels using a 19mm socket


4. Slightly loosen the 18mm nut(s) that hold the strut(s) under the hood



5. Locate & pull the rubber wiring loom out the bracket on the side of the strut



6. Locate 18mm nut holding the front tie rod/sway bar on & undo it (this nut needed some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster & a lot of loosening/tightening for me to get it undone/work it by hand.....a impact wrench probably would've helped here!) If the bolt starts spinning then the nut isn't moving, so you need to put some more PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on it to get off & then work it on & work it off and it'll come off!



7. Move it out of the way


8. Undo the 2 x 18mm nuts holding the strut to the knuckle, but don't undo the nuts all the way


9. The bolts are "threaded" into the knuckle....so spin the nut all the way until the end of the bolt & then use a hammer to tap them out (so you don't damage the bolt or threads)


10. Use a jack to support/cradle the knuckle/front brake assembly before you pull the 2 bolts out


11. Remove the bolts from the knuckle/strut assembly & also the strut bracket (it'll be loose) that held the rubber wiring loom


12. With one hand undo the 18mm nut from the top of the strut assembly (under the hood) and then hold onto the strut assembly/spring with the other hand (so you don't drop it & rip the CV joint boot open). It should be free now to remove it from the vehicle.


13. Now you need the E-8 Socket to remove the strut cap from the strut. There are 4 x E-8 bolts that hold it on



14. Now you have the strut cap removed, you have access to the 21mm nut that holds the spring perch onto the strut


15. Now you can either take it to a shop & let them swap the springs....should take like 5-10 minutes & costs you $20 for a local/small shop (which is what I did after I found out that my air compressor was too weak to spin off the 21mm nut)

-OR-

You can attach your spring compressors (if you decided to do this home method) onto the side of the springs & then tighten them down to compress the spring. Then you will use your air impact gun (while holding onto the spring perch--wear gloves!) to undo the 21mm nut to get the spring perch off


16. Then you can remove the spring perch & strut bearing to remove the stock spring. Undo the tension on the stock spring on the spring compressors to remove the tension & get it loose.

17. Take the stock bump stops & cut if necessary with hack saw or razor blade (Progress recommended cutting the stock ones in half).

18. Put the spring compressors onto the aftermarket springs & tighten them down & slide them on & align them on the stock strut. Afix the stock spring perch & stock strut bearing back onto the strut. Use the air gun to tighten down the 21mm nut again. Undo the pressure off the spring compressors & the struts will be fully assembled


19. Slide the strut assembly back into the upper mount very carefully & put the 18mm nut back on (under the hood) to hold it up. Then slide the strut/knuckle bolts in place as well


20. Tighten down the strut/knuckle bolts & bracket with the nuts, and insert the rubber wiring loom back into the bracket


21. Slide the front tie rod/sway bar bolt back into the strut & tighten it down


22. Torque down to specs


23. Repeat for other side

24. GET AN ALIGNMENT!!!!!!


Enjoy!!!




Torque Specs: Thanks to WopOnTour

Ball Joint to Control Arm Nut and Bolts 68 N·m 50 lb ft

Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut
First Pass- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Reverse Nut- 3/4 turn
Second Pass-50 N·m + 30° (37 lb ft + 30°)

Control Arm to Front Frame Bolts- 66 N·m (49 lb ft)

Control Arm to Rear Frame Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° ( 74 lb ft + 180°)

Frame to Chassis Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° (74 lb ft + 180°)

Intermediate Shaft Pinch Bolt- 34 N·m (25 lb ft)

Stabilizer Link to Strut Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Stabilizer Shaft Clamp Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)

Stabilizer Shaft Link to Stabilizer Bar Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Strut Assembly to Steering Knuckle Nut- 120 N·m (89 lb ft)

Strut Cap Screws- 14 N·m (124 lb in)

Strut Cap to Body Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Strut Shaft Nuts- 70 N·m (52 lb ft)

Tie Rod to Knuckle Nut- 60 N·m (44 lb ft)

Transmission Mount Through Bolt- 100 N·m (74 lb ft)

Transmission Mount to Frame Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)

Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Mounting Bolts- 115 N·m (85 lb ft)

Wow great write up!

I WISH MY STATUS WAS UPDATED SO I COULD STICKY THIS!!!!! lol

great write up man. When I get my springs, this is where I'll be!

Yeah I wish I could've done it with the spring compressors to show how that's done (I only had the one picture from when I TRIED to attemp it, but the air compressor was too weak).
Spring compressors can be rented though from pretty much any major auto store. Just takes more time to do it that way

But honestly, it's soooo much easier to just take them to shop & have them swap it in 5-10 minutes....just find a small local place that does struts (they'll have a wall mounted strut/spring compressor) & isn't busy and they'll do it quick for you for like $20 (if they're cool)....I think a local Napa wanted like $30 to do the 2 fronts.