Ok,here we go.

Tools...
Safety glasses/face shield, gloves,(and welding safety for weld in)
Tire pressure guage
3/8" wrench and socket.
3/16" Allen key/T handle
15mm socket (for seat bolts,cordless electric impact works great)
T45 (for seat belt bolt,not 100% sure that it was a 45 but I think so)
Hammer
Gasket scraper/Chissle
Caulk gun and a tube of Black Body seam sealer (available at any auto body supply or most likely any auto parts store)
Vice grips (needle nose types)
3 small jacks (Scissor, Bottle , or Screw jacks are fine)
Marker (silver sharpie is great, or bright color to show up on black, or you can use an Awl/Scribe)
Drill with 3/8" chuck(14v min. cordless)
Drill bits (1/8", 1/4", 38", 25/64" or Unibit)
Floor Jack
Panel Popper tool (for weld in only)
Small Grinder (for weld in only)
And most important a flat level 16' X 16' area and some Scale stands or blocks or ramps to put the car on level and elevated with all 4 wheels loaded. A Front end Alignment rack or drive on ramp type lift is ideal.


Installation:

{Preparation}

Step 1...set tire pressure (32 front and 30 rear is where I like it)

Step 2...Remove seats.Disconnect the seatbelt light wire harness under the seat.Slide foreward and remove two 15mm. bolts behind each seat,then slide seat 1/2 way back and lean the seat foreward, then lift up.


Step 3...Remove plastic seat belt bolt and sill cover and T-45 seat belt bolts.

Step 4...Raise and level chassis.

Step 5... (FOR WELD IN ONLY,if not welding skip and move to the next step.)Remove Rocker panel moulding/Ground fx.Use a panel popper tool and pry the center portion of the clips out that hold the moulding in place. There are 1 in each wheel opening at the bottom near the moulding,and several along the bottom of the moulding.(make sure you wear glasses for this as mine were full of dirt,sand and gravel)

Step 6...Remove Parking brake line fasteners located on the undercarriage just in front of the rear wheels. These clips were a little tough to get off without a special tool, but they are not re-used or replaced, so I just broke them off with a hammer and gasket scraper/chissle. While you have the hammer and scraper, there is a jiont with a thick line of body seam saeler which will obstruct the tube from seating flat against the rear floor-pan. Hold the Subframe connector in place to locate the section of seam sealer that's in the way and remove it with scraper.

{Subframe Rail, Start on the Passenger side}

Step 7...Position one jack near each wheel and one in the middle and hold the Subframe connector in place, it should be located snug against the side pinch weld and flush up against the jack box in the front and flat on the floor pan,so your going to push up and out, and then slide foreward against the jack box.Now position the jacks lightly under the tube to hold it in place.Jack the middle 1st then 1 just after the bend near the jack box but not obstructing the mounting plate, then 1 in the rear. Now clamp the tube to the pinch weld with ViseGrips,make sure it's nice and flush all the way down the side. The middle jack should then be moved to the center of the large 4 bolt center mounting plate and jacked up firmly,then snug up the front and rear also.

Step 8...Now you have them in place, take your marker and mark all holes to be drilled.Draw a circle in each hole with an X like a cross-hair to mark the center.Use an Awl or punch to center for the pilot drill bit if desired.(For weld in, mark a 1" spot every 6" on the inside of the pinch weld all the way up the side where the tube has contact.)

Step 9...Lower the jacks enough to remove the Subframe connector and remove it for now.

{Drilling... CAUTION!!! WIREING HARNESS ON BOTH SIDES AND BRAKE LINES ON DRIVERS SIDE!!!}

Step 10...Make sure the carpet is pulled back away from where you are drilling.Make sure to take great care to secure the wireing harness pulled back out of the way towards the center of the car for drilling clearence. Drill out your holes starting with the 1/8" pilot and gradually working your way up to 25/64" (if you don't have a 25/64" bit use a unibit or the 3/8" bit to ream out the hole and remove any burrs) Test a bolt in each hole to make sure the bolt slides in and out freely without getting hung up.

Step 11...(FOR WELD IN ONLY) Use small grinder and clean all paint/primer from the pinch weld at each of the 1" marks every 6" up the pinch weld. It's good to use a weld through primer on these spots as once installed,they won't be accessable for corrosion resistance.

Step 12...(This was the most difficult part for me) Take your bolts and get the 4 Allen key'ed studs and drop them through the frame in front and back. There are access holes in the frame next to the holes you drilled. Manipulate the stud inside the frame until you get them to drop into place. (The fronts can be a little tricky if you have short stubby fingers like me! But keep with it for a few minutes and you'll get them in.) Now take your Frame connector and repeat step 7, and bolt in place with the 3/8" wrench and Allen wrench. (You don't need the Fender washers for the front and rear mounts,only the center plates need washers.) Now drop the center bolts through from inside the car with one Fender washer on each bolt, 4 through the rear floor pan and one through the front seat cross member. Now secure and torque all bolts with one Fender washer on the bottom of the middle 5 bolts.

{Drivers Side...CAUTION!!! BRAKE LINES AND WIREING HARNESS!!! USE EXTREME CAUTION DRILLING TO AVOID DAMAGING THESE!!! A drill stop is a good Idea.}

Repeat steps 7 through 12 on the drivers side. The only difference are the brake lines under the car.
For the brake lines you need to slide in the large 4 bolt mounting plate from the side. I was able to unfasten the clip that holds the brake lines up near the 4 bolt plate, and gently pry them down a little bit for clearence. (you may want to use a drill stop to avoid them when drilling.)
For the Wireing Harness inside,there are tabs that hold the harness down, unfasten them and move the harness towards the middle of the car out of the way, You may need to duct tape them back or put a metal plate(like a drywall spreader scraper knife) in between them for protection.

Step 13...(For weld in only) After they are bolted good and tight,take your ViseGrips and clamp the tube to the pinch weld in between the spots you have grinded for welding. Now hammer the pinch weld up against the tube until it sits flush at each of the 1" spots that will be stitch welded every 6" and weld 1" every 6" down the sides. Clean up your welds and spot prime,and allow adequate time for primer to dry.

Step 14...Use Caulk gun with black Body seam sealer(if you can't find Black seam sealer,you may want to paint it with "Black Satin" paint) and replace the factory seam sealer that you removed,then seal all the way up each side around the tubes and in between the pinch weld. Make sure that it is sealed well around the mounting plates to prevent corrosion around the mounting holes that you have drilled, also a little primer around the hole is good. This will help prevent water and dirt from getting packed in betwneen and help prevent corrosion,plus it helps quiet the ride. Also it would be even better to apply rubberized undercoating on top after your done for greater protection.

Reverse steps 6 through 1 , Use the new P-brake fastener tabs for # 6.

Now paint with Black Satin and your Done!

Hope I didn't miss anything, If you figure out any other ideas or find I missed something,please let me know. Feel free to call if you have any questions or trouble.

Thanks and good luck!

WTF, no pics?

oh god..... why do I have a feeling this will be sitting in my garage for a while..... lol....

no i have a feeling we will only get one car done instead of both

This is not going to be fun.

It's really not that bad, pretty straight foreward. Basically, you remove front seats and carpet, drill holes, bolt up, re-install interior.(sounds so much easier like that doeasn't it! LOL)
Allow yourself 2-4 hours (depending on weld in or not, facility, tools, help, skill level...) the 1st one will be the hardest, it will get easier and go faster and faster after that.
Here are some pice of various steps, I have more but need to find them.

Okay, here is an interior shot where you will need to clear to drill.


Watch out for the Wiring harness!


Move harness away for drilling clearance


Remove parking brake line retainers. You wont need them, so just break them off with a hammer and scraper.



Scrape away any seam sealer sticking out so they sit nice and flush


Position subframe connector located to install position to mark holes. On drivers side, carefully slide it behind the brake lines


Jack the subframe connector up into place


Mark all holes to be drilled



Remove the subframe connector so you can drill out the holes. Use a center punch to mark the center of the holes


Drill out all holes using a small pilot bit 1st, then step up to the large bit.



You will most likely need to scrape a little of the sound dampening material away.






You can spray a little primer on the holes to help prevent corrosion


After all holes are drilled, re-position the connector to be installed


Bolt them all up tight. It helps to have someone help by tightening from the top.


Re-install interior and you're ready to go for a spirited road test!

Thank you; the photos make a world of difference.

Well done!

Scott Herbert

Hey Scott, did you get them installed?

This was going to be 'the weekend' but my son is going into the Air Force in a couple of weeks so I'm going to race this weekend and again in a couple of weeks so he can have a couple more chances to co-drive. Since I'm going to be racing Sunday, this means 'honey-dos' today -- I have to fix my lawn sprinkler system, among other things...

Honestly, I'm so surprised with how it handles with just the rear sway and negative camber font and rear that I'm going to burn-up my 225/40 Hoosiers very quickly -- driving fast is almost like drifting -- a major controlled slide. I had a lot of fun blowing 40 Corvettes away at an autocross as it's setup now -- I did a 70.1 seconds, the average vette did 76 seconds -- you should have seen their faces, and how many came over to look the car over afterwords... Hm-m-m, "...only 4 cylinders...", "...only 122 cubes", "Wat's that funny thing on the front?", "Where are the fan belts?" It was interesting...

I have a line on four Hoosier 275/35 x 18s with about 30 ProSolo runs on them, 'used on one side only', for half price (about $600 for the set). They were being used on a VW R32 with 7.5" wide rims (way too narrow according to Hoosier -- but they worked) -- and they loved them. But the R32's a Turbo and, while the 275s had MASSIVE side stick, they were too much larger in diameter for the turbo R32 (very low torque -- lots of horsepower), so they have accelleration problems out of tight corners.

I've found 8.5" wide rims for the Redline (closer to Hoorier's recommended 9" minimum), the 275s are only 0.9" larger in diameter than stock, the Redline has massive torque, so I think this may be the biggest jump in capability I could find. I still need to buy the wheels... And there's always the 285/30 x 18 Hoosiers...

I'm really beginning to have fun in DSP. It's a fun, very controllable drive.

Again, thanks for the pictures. I'm still looking a little in the future for the install. BTW, the 06 has a large plastic cover surrounding the brake lines so I'm not sure how easy it will be to slip the mount under the brake lines. I'll let you know and I'll take a picture when I do it so you can see.

Scott