What you'll need: Phillips head, panel popper is good but not required, torx bit, 10mm socket.

It's easiest to do this with both the inside and outside panels off; it is probably possible to do it from the outside panel only with some wiggling but it'll be awfully tight.

First - make damn sure your window is UP. If it's stuck down, be prepared for a sonuvabith of a job.

Remove outside door skin. You gotta remove the handle first, there's a little clip thing you gotta remove that will most likely break, then you pull the handle across and up. The same unit is used on both sides, so it's reversed depending on which side you're doing. Once that is done, remove the torx screws that hold the skin on along the inside of the doorIIRC there are 4 along the bottom, and 2 up each side. Remove the window trim piece by carefully pulling it up. Now lift the door skin up and off - done.

CAREFULLY pull down the sound/moisture barrier - try not to tear it! If you do it slowly & carefully, it can be reused with the same adhesive even.

Unplug the

From the outside, unplug the harness, single push-tab lock on the bottom side. Remove the 3 silver 10mm bolts that hold the motor to the bracket. Not too hard to get too with a standard 10mm socket. Make sure you're removing the ones that are obvious, in a 4" or so cspace front, upper and lower and not something else, they should be right there - sorry I didn't take pics. Don't worry, nothing is gonna fall out, the moter/regulator will sit there once unbolted.

Once the bolts are out, you gotta wiggle/push the motor forward (toward the inside of the car) to get it free. This is where you might be better off with the interior panel off - it *might* fit down without removing it; tough fit though.

To remove the inside door panel. One screw in the lower front corner, 2 inside the door handle/arm rest thing where your window switch is. These are posi, so if you're using a standard Phillips be CAREFUL not to strip them! Now, you've got several pop-clips along the bottom and up each side - use a panel popper or just tug, expect a few to break. Might wanna grab a few spares from Autozone or whatever if you want the panel on snug as new.

You can TRY to remove the clear moisture barrier here, but it's a BITCH. It's glued on much tighter than the outside one. Your call - I just cut a slit over the motor.

Reinstall is the reverse - shouldn't be too tough.

Hope this helps!

I've always done regulators from the inside, without taking the exterior door panel off. For this, you'll want to start with the window down so you can unclip it from the regulator. Once you do, push the glass all the way up and secure it in place. I use a suction cup, but masking tape will do.

thats the same way i did it. i did however leave marks on the black rubber above the window from the tape

I see a lot of people using duct tape, which tends to leave a residue that's a pain to remove.

Way easier from the outside frankly, you don't gotta mess with the crank and supports. Witht he regulator out, the window will stay in the up position. How did you get the motor/regulator out from the inside? The bolts face outwards and are hard to get at from inside. With the skin off, they're literally RIGHT there in front of you, just slight interference from the crossmember in the door. The outside skin comes off so easily, I don't see why you wouldn't remove it, lol.

TBH I never attempted this on my RL, but every other car has been done from the inside...and I've done a lot. Also, there's no mention of removing the outer door skin in the service info I have...but that doesn't neccessarily mean anything.

from the inside you have to collapse the whole assembly and sneak it out, trust me and be careful cause i bent 1 assembly trying to this this not all the way compressed