Ok, here we go. I'll make a few corrections and fill in the blanks after the inital version.

You need:
New supercharger pulley
1 good ratchet
1 or two 6" socket extensions
Allen/Hex socket (will update on correct size, 6 mm seems right)
Quality pulley puller (SFPH sells a nice unit, and some online dealer will rent them)
Anti-sieze lubricant (if none comes with the puller)
Plenty of rags and shop towels

If you're removing the blower, you should go ahead and setup the area in advance. All you really need to do is have a proper sized area ready, and clean it of anything you don't want in the blower or motor. Meaning as spotless as possible. I used a couple of layers of new shop rags under the blower.

Process:

Blower on Car
If you have a puller that will operate without removing the blower, count your blessings! Not too hard of a job. You just need to remove the belt from the tensioner. To do this place a rag or something else to 'protect' the tensioner, note the direction of travel (down), and use a suitable prybar to press the tensioner down and remove the belt from the supercharger pulley.

At this point, you should have the belt off the blower, and anything else that is causing clearance issues removed, or held out of the way. If you're removing the blower, then you may want to consider disconnecting the large radiator hose over the blower. You should have clearance either way, but if you're doing it solo, it might be worth the extra step. So now, you should be ready to either remove the blower, or install the pulley. Depending on your particular situation. If you do not need to remove it, skip down the page to the 'Pulley Install' section.

Blower Removal:

You will need to unplug the sensors attached to the blower and throttle-body, so remove the neg(-) battery cable from the trunk mounted battery.

The LSJ's Eaton M62 is held in place by 4 bolts. If you have the plastic fuel rail cover, you should remove that as well, to get a clear shot at the 4 hexbolts that hold the blower on, and to get more clearance for removing electrical connectors. Once you're confident that anything that could get in the way, is either removed or held back. Start removing the electrical connections to the blower. The top mounted sensor, any of the vacuum lines, the throttle body has a 'block' of wires that clips in under it. I'll update these once I can take a look under the hood again. The intake will need to be disconnected and tucked out of the way as well.

Once you're confident that the blower is disconnected from everything that would hold it under the hood, remove the 4 6mm hexbolts. The blower is supported by 'pegs', so it should not fall loose when the last bolt is removed, but securing it lightly in place is not a bad idea. This is where a friend comes in REAL handy, both to make sure the blower dosen't come loose before you want it to, and to help you remove it from under the hood. There is a metal gasket, and some sleeve's and rubber bushing that you will, or already have noticed. The gasket is under the blower, and the bushings and sleeves are around the bolts that hold it down. DON'T LOOSE ANYTHING!

At this point, the blower should lift right out. If you have a buddy, use them to hold the upper coolant hose clear, and even give you a hand lifting the blower. If you have to put the blower back down, make sure you put it back down in a way that nothing is 'poking' into the blower housing. The rotors dont' need something jamming them. Now, cart that puppy over to the workspace to remove and reinstall the pulley! Make sure to cover the gaping hole in the manifold with some clean rags, or at LEAST close the hood while the motor is open like that. Take this chance to examine your intercooler while it's open. It's pretty neat. I also covered the throttle body with a rag held on with a rubber band, to make sure that no dirt got in that way.

Pulley Removal/Install:

Follow the instructions on your puller, no sense in restating that. As far as tips go, make sure you remove the small plastic cap that's on the end of the blower snout. There is actaully a threaded hold behind it, and the pulley-puller needs this hole to work correctly. Other than that, go slowly, and stop if anything feels wrong. The pulley will basically release rather suddenly. I thought I broke something the first time I changed one! Remove it from the shaft, and give the shaft a good cleaning.

Installing it is covered by the puller as well. If you took a route that dosen't use a puller, then you're on your own. I'm not taking responsibility for anyone braking anything. Not that there is no way to do it, but I'm just going over the proper way.

If you're using a modular setup, like SFPH's DUB system. Only install the new hub with the puller. Make sure that it's put on the correct direction, and snug it down untill the hub seats fully, and the puller is obviously starting to 'bind', don't SMASH it on there, but be sure that it's seated correctly. Now, you can put the ring onto the hub.

Blower reinstall:

Make sure everything is clean. I cannot stress this enough in this article. It does no good to have a new pulley, if you're gonna allow a pound of sand in the motor and blower!

Reinstalling the blower is the opposite of removal. There's not much to say about it. The toruqe for the 4 blower bolts is 18 lb/ft (25 NM), (*thanks Wop), I basically did mine good and hand tight, since I didn't have a small torque wrench.

First things to check in the event of an issue are all of the electrical connectors that are involved.

Now, Enjoy...


*Sp00ner takes no resposibilty for any damage done to your car. This is a simple, but potentially damaging endeavor. Do not do this if you have no mechanical knowledge. Do not do this if changing your spark plugs is a difficult process. If you asked yourself 'How does the hood open?', before this process, stop. Pay someone to do it right.

Another very easy way to remove the belt that I tried the other day is:

Using a 15mm Open End wrench, place the wrench on the square raised portion of the tensioner arm, it is right on top of the tensioner arm situated between the tensioner pulley and the engine hoist ring.

Push the wrench towards the back of the car. This rotates the tensioner arm down and depresses the tensioner mechanism. It actually takes very little effort at all, and can all be done by a single person. I'm pretty weak and was able to push the tensioner down using a wrench with one hand while removing the belt with the other.

Depends on your pulley puller. I couldn't fit it on the blower, without taking it off.

the pully boys pulley puller will allow you to remove the pully with out removing the S/C from the engine. Also, the pulley boys belt tensioner relief tool works wonders I never leave home with out it.

Not to sound stupid, but I have GM stage 2 pulley and belt. Does the stage 2 belt have a stock tensioner or is that something you have to purchase separately when you go with a smaller pulley that GM does not provide hence only suppose to be 1 size?

well considering that you have the stage II and the pully isnt below a 3.0 with the smaller belt you should be ok.

is that what your asking???

Ok, how do you get the one-way bolts off (stage ii)?

with the bit they provided with the kit