Stock LSJ crank and rods.

[Street Dreamz]

Let's say I wanted to shoo for 600hp in my Redline. I have heard mixed things abou the stock bottom end. Some ways seem to point to the stock crank being able to handle that no problem and even the rods too. The rods I don't so much believe because of their spindly design. What have you guys read/seen? I know the stock 4G63 crank and many others will hold that power level with ease, are we on par with that?

[WSFrazier]

That is cutting it close for the crank. Rods, sleeves, and etc will obviously need to be changed though.

[Street Dreamz]

The sleeves are iron...why would I swap them? To put in a thicker stainless steel one or something?

[ebristol]

Read this thread.

http://www.lsjforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89410

[Street Dreamz]

That says nothing. It's going in a different direction than me. And according to the thread it uses the stock block and stock crank.

[ebristol]

So what direction did you plan on going?

[Street Dreamz]

They are keeping the stock returnless fuel system in tact, using a 35R, a log manifold, and from the looks of it keeping his a/c. I plan to put my twin scroll turbo where the fuse box/pcm is :-) I have a feeling the iron sleeves will hold up just fine. I'm just wondering if I actually need a crank or if anyone has pushed the stock one that far. I think it could be okay.

[Dainslaif]

I think the crank will hold, but if you're actually shooting for 600 HP, you're going to have to replace almost everything else and use spray.

Blown 4-banger is shooting for 500 (with a TVS) and then tossing nitrous on for 600. He's replacing a ton of parts in there and doing some really crazy shit to the engine.

http://tinyurl.com/yu2uqm

I still don't understand the point - that thing will never plant that power without significant suspension modification. Yay FWD.

[Street Dreamz]

I'm not using nitrous, I'm not using a blower.

[Witt]

Originally Posted by Street Dreamz

The sleeves are iron...why would I swap them? To put in a thicker stainless steel one or something?

As per the latest Ecotec build book revision the sleeves should be changed above 400hp from a flanged thinwall to a solid type. Darton manufactures replacements.

Also noted, a copper O-ringed head gasket should be used as the multi-layer steel cannot hold reliably at those boost levels. Valves also should be replaced for the required amount of airflow and aftermarket rods will also be needed.

Obviously stock engine management and fueling will not work, but since its not going to be streetable, I doubt that will be a problem.

I'm curious as to what drivetrain setup you will be running.