plugged silencer holes holding up

[Dainslaif]

Originally Posted by Dainslaif

As far as I know, I'm one of the first (if not THE first) person to have a set of these coming. When they come in I plan on taking an afternoon and installing them, with progress pics and before/after pull vids to see if I can record the sound difference. (if any)

I said I would, so yeah.

[Italianjoe1]

Any updates on this guys?

[mrphoto103]

Side note -

I was in Boston and this last week and visited one of your members Ed. Come to find out he has had his plugged for 15k now using the "steel" stuff. It does make it a little louder, but Ed's car is a bad example because of how LOUD his exhaust is lol.

[Dainslaif]

I got my plates this week. They look great (just as pictured). I have quicksteel and some brake cleaner handy, and just ordered some SC oil from GMPD, so I will be installing these (with pictures and the promised outlines for Joe) the weekend after I receive the oil.

[EdCobaltSS]

Originally Posted by mrphoto103

Side note -

I was in Boston and this last week and visited one of your members Ed. Come to find out he has had his plugged for 15k now using the "steel" stuff. It does make it a little louder, but Ed's car is a bad example because of how LOUD his exhaust is lol.

yup, that'd be me!! actually, comin up on 20k with them plugged using quik steel.

[Watts-Up]

Originally Posted by Dainslaif

Cool beans, I look forward to it.


Does anyone have a cleaning solution they recommend for the case? I'd like to get as much oil/dirt out of it as possible before applying the quicksteel.

Yeah, like Joe said, mostly any solvent will clean it good, also wax and grease remover (prep-sol) or laquer thinner. Another great thing to promote adhesion is to sand/grind the surface to be bonded. This will create a "mechanical bond" to the "tooth" created by the sanding. Use at least 80grit or rougher/lower.

[EdCobaltSS]

Originally Posted by Watts-Up

Yeah, like Joe said, mostly any solvent will clean it good, also wax and grease remover (prep-sol) or laquer thinner. Another great thing to promote adhesion is to sand/grind the surface to be bonded. This will create a "mechanical bond" to the "tooth" created by the sanding. Use at least 80grit or rougher/lower.

Paul, cover the bearings inside the end of the charger housing with painters tape, then use BraKleen to clean everything.

[Dainslaif]

Good deal, thanks for the tips. Did you scuff up yours at all or nah? I have some 60 grit I'll probably use, I'm just curious.

[EdCobaltSS]

Originally Posted by Dainslaif

Good deal, thanks for the tips. Did you scuff up yours at all or nah? I have some 60 grit I'll probably use, I'm just curious.

no no no no no no. it needs to be smoother than a baby's ass in there for the air to move right. if anyting, use 2500 grit to smooth it out even more. if you want to port it, then start with a lower grit and work your way up to 2500, but it needs to be extremely smooth when your all done with it. And make sure the quick steel doesnt hit the rotors while they spin.

[Watts-Up]

Originally Posted by EdCobaltSS

no no no no no no. it needs to be smoother than a baby's ass in there for the air to move right. if anyting, use 2500 grit to smooth it out even more. if you want to port it, then start with a lower grit and work your way up to 2500, but it needs to be extremely smooth when your all done with it. And make sure the quick steel doesnt hit the rotors while they spin.

I'm talking about scuffing only where the adhesive will be applied so it will bond really good. The sand scratches would be covered, not exposed.