Clutch or Clutch Hydraulics? - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch or Clutch Hydraulics?

Background: 2004 RL with 156K, bought used at 145K. Compared to my prior 1996 SC2, the clutch is 5x harder to depress. Took a little getting used on shifting. These are my DD, so I'm generally easy on them. My 96 had just over 300K on it before I lost compression on cyl 4 and only put in one clutch at 200K.

Onto the RL...When shifting normally, normal RPM's around 3500 to 4000, no problems, shifting normally, no grinding, no difference in shift points. When in the tallest gear I can floor it and no slippage and good power.

Now, when I want to get up to speed quickly I have good power, and everything is stock and it pull around 11.5 boost according to my torque app. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd 6000 RPM esp. and some in 3rd to 4th the clutch release feels different. I don't know how to specifically describe it, but it releases softer, slower. I don't think it's not was catching/slipping because I continue to accelerate. But I also feel I couldn't immediately shift into the next gear until its done.

Could this be hydraulics? I ask because my brake fluid, which I think also runs the clutch hydraulics, when inspected discolored yellow/brown and a bit low. My brake pads are thinning which may account for some of this.

If I used a power bleeder (the one that has a reservoir and pushes fluid into the system, not a mityvac) would bleeding the clutch help this?

Opinions? Or is this a symptom of a failing cluch?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 02:41 PM
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Clutch slave cylinder/throwout bearing.

I had a similar problem, the GMPP swap fixed it.

GMPP is great. It's held 418whp so far. :P

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418whp/357wtq @ 22psi on E30

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Throw out bearing, you got to be kidding me

The only problem is that requires me to remove the trans and not that easy for this backyard mechanic and this is my DD.

I'm fairly handy, but this sounds involved. I'll try bleeding first, and if symptoms persist or worsen I'll look into the clutch replacement with GMPP and new throw out bearing.

Thanks for your help
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:20 PM
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The early TOB's had issues. Internal leakage.

If you have help, it's not that bad. Check my thread on this site for pics and a few tips.

When you bleed, use a rubber stopper and a Mityvac from the reservoir. Google the GM bleeding method. It's slow, but it works.

I hate to say it though, as a fellow '04 owner, I'm 99.99% sure it's the TOB. Sorry.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Ill look for your threads on clutch replacement.

I just recently had a slow leaking water pump. It wasn't too bad, just a pain to get the timing chain holder on. Very little room to work on. But it's on now and no leak
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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I looked up your GMMP clutch install thread...

Looks a lot easier with the cradle off. Do you have a lift at home or is that somewhere else?

Can you get the cradle off without a lift? Just got a copy of the 2005 FSM, I'll look for options. Maybe a CL deal on a garage lift is in my near future
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackred View Post
I looked up your GMMP clutch install thread...

Looks a lot easier with the cradle off. Do you have a lift at home or is that somewhere else?

Can you get the cradle off without a lift? Just got a copy of the 2005 FSM, I'll look for options. Maybe a CL deal on a garage lift is in my near future
I did it with just a Harbor Freight engine support, a floor jack, and a low profile trans jack.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:25 PM
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I looked at the FSM and taking off the cradle is not that bad, and it would make it much easier to access the trans. I have a engine hoist and of course jack stands. Don't have a trans lift, but for $150 at HF, not too bad. Always up for a challenge, but no body to help. So more like 13+ hours for me. I can limp along further, no leak that I can see so far externally, and as long as I don't drive pushing the limits it shifts decently now. Will put on the to do list before increasing HP mods (pulley, injectors, tune) along with reverse trans mount as I have serious wheel hop in 1st if I gun it.

I need to look into suspension components too (looking into FE5) and will do all at once.
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