Traction Bars??

[Sp00ner]

Originally Posted by Hyperion

Yup, the link is in the "similar threads" area at the bottom of this page.

I forgot all about that little area, it's so far down I never notice it...

[sheek360]

Originally Posted by Hyperion

Something like this:

(made by Lakewood)
EDIT: this is for a Focus, not a RL.

Those are purdy!!!!!

[wasntme]

here's a set we make for the srt-4, we need a guinee pig for the red line pm me were in maryland.

[wasntme]

the problem with mcmaster carr parts is that their heim joints and connecting rods are more for machinery, we only use racing suspension parts and our connecting tubes are twice as big as mcmasters and our heim joints have twice the rating.

[Tibbett]

I'm not sure how close he is to you, but you might get ahold of Watts Up

He's a vendor here for U-Race Cars and he might be willing to help..not sure..it's worth a shot though. If I had the time I'd go out there myself.

[sheek360]

Originally Posted by wasntme

here's a set we make for the srt-4, we need a guinee pig for the red line pm me were in maryland.

awesome looking setup

[mgm1979]

What does the SRT-4 setup run them? (Just to get an idea of how much we need to fork out)

[wasntme]

$305 +25 shipping heres some pics of the install on an srt4.

First off Gregg and I would like to personaly thank steven (aka boostdacr) for driving 2 hours out of his way and letting us take our time on his car so we could get detailed pictures for installation.

tools needed:
1-10mm wrench
2-14mm wrenches
1-15/16 wrench
1-15/16 socket
1- ratchet
1 pair of channel locks
1-drill
1-1/2 inch drill bit


first remove the 2 bolts that hold the radiator in



yea these bolts



have a friend, spouse, neighbor....someone hold up on the radiator so you can get the 2 - 5/8 supplied bolts with washers through the the 2 outside slots on the radiator core support, put them in and then they can let the radiator go,make sure you put the washer on the bolt before puting it in the slot.


you will need to locate the 2 holes on the front crossmember and drill them out to 1/2"


we used a step drill to accomplish this



see the holes are now drilled out to 1/2"



have someone help you hold the H-brace up or use your belly like i did install the supplied 7/16" bolts from the H-brace to the front crossmember...... bolt order as follows from top to bottom (nylock nut, washer, front crossmember, H-brace, washer, bolt) just screw in hand tight for now.


next we just installed the 5/8" bolts into the core support hand tight (do not tighten yet) we used a c-clamp to draw it up to the core support.



next tighten the 7/16 bolts on the front crossmember


next install the traction bars bolt order as follows top to bottom (5/8 bolt, washer, core support, H-brace, washer, lock washer, heim joint, 5/8 nylock nut) and tighten up (don't forget to slide the heim joint through the safety break cable).



this is what it should look like


next we move on to the sway bar links, remove your stock ones there is not a nut on top you will have to use a pair of channel locks too hold the top while loosen it up from the bottom. next install the supplied energy suspension sway bar links bolt order as follows from top to bottom (nylock nut, retaining washer, bushing, control arm, bushing, retaining washer(up), retaining washer (down), bushing, sway bar, bushing, retaining washer (up), heim joint, delrin heim joint insert, supplied silver washer, bolt. tighten til the bushings expand out to the edge of the retianing washer.



check for clearance...i was able to get 2 of my fat fingers between the motor mount, the black plastic shield and the traction bar.



next adjust the traction bars....with the steering wheel straight tighten up on the traction bar tube by hand it should get shorter until it stops and it wont go any further, we then tightened it up a half a turn more with a rag to protect the knurl and a pair of channel locks, now tighten the jam nuts up.....take it for a spin with atleast 1 launch come back and tighten the sway bar links up a little more ( ours were loose after we got back ) if you still have wheel hop tighten the traction bar tube up a 1/4 turn at a time. Recheck all of your bolts to make sure everything is tight.


here is the finished product

[wasntme]

here are the results from testing

Now onto the testing:

heres what it looks like from the front


pay close attention to the picture here we see no evidence of wheel hop in his marks left from a 4000 rpm launch.


nope no wheel hop here either, just break where he shifted from first to second and all this on a slab of concrete! BTW you like our secluded testing area its over a 1/4 mile run.


you know i had to get this one in here we did a couple of runs this was the first on, sorry steven i had to get this one in here (me smokin his ass on this first run), sorry to say for me once he got his launch down he was smokin me....lol.



and here it is stevens (aka boostdacr) response to the B-woody H-brace traction bar combo...................a priceless two thumbs up!!

[mgm1979]

So, if I've already got the dual torque brace setup and poly mounts all the way around, would this be overkill, or what? I pretty much have to TRY to get any hop, at this point, although there was a little last night at the track.