Saturn ION RedLine Forums banner

new ecotec shop

10K views 95 replies 19 participants last post by  mrbelvedere 
#1 ·
FMSR

lets see how long they last
 
#73 · (Edited)
Well. Thanks to (John is it?) some long posts made with the products they offer. My head started to hurt after a while, but I read the transmission detail, and I know a bit about them, and the listing is bogus. "increased oil passages " or some such bs.

Cryogenic treatment I am aware or, built a trans for Mongorat that he had treated. I really do not see the advantage of cryo, but Mongorat was very happy. But I would love to see what they do to drill out passages etc and their stage 4 xxxx whatever is pure fantasy, it would cost about 10,000 dollars to machine new gears minimum. Emco did some gears close ratio 3 and 4 for Gunther Schmidt who races one of the old GBM Cobalt race cars, and they cost about 10,000 dollars up front. Not sure if they are installed or not.

Anyway my point is, the transmission stuff is fantasy.
the cylinder head John can speak to, but again, I wonder what they really are. And what is the preocupation with high numbers on valve springs "85 lb valve springs" O wait, if 75 is good, 80 is better, 85 is better still? Okay , I raise you to 100 lbs. Why. Gahhhh.

As for rear drive Redlines, that silver Redline RWD work of art must have cost the guy at least 75,000 not including his direct labor.

Any serious guy on here modding his RL has dropped the best part of 10,000 bucks on it, maybe not all at once, but bit by bit, and dont even pretend to say its not true. Arm, who is building 400 whp on a budget, has,by my guess .spent 3500 already just keeping the darn car running....

anway. what was the OP?
ya springs too, I know a bit about that. More fantasy.

Speaking of which, try Cipher racing. Nice really nice website and 179.00 harness bars . Some modification may be required. lol
 
#76 ·
Any serious guy on here modding his RL has dropped the best part of 10,000 bucks on it, maybe not all at once, but bit by bit, and dont even pretend to say its not true. Arm, who is building 400 whp on a budget, has,by my guess .spent 3500 already just keeping the darn car running...
I will not argue this, as I have probably spent close to or even more than $10k over the years, but I'm saying if starting from scratch, knowing the platform and what you might want, you could spend far less.
 
#74 ·
Well, if you you have an LS car, that is fine.

If you are shopping for a sports car, LS cars typically start out 5k more than a LSJ and around 10k more brand new. Then you start from there.

LS swap a rwd car and you are talking 5k in mods to make it work including the motor.

That isn't even including mods to get to higher hp levels.

Eventually, I will buy a Sky and LS swap one. Right now, it is cheaper and easier for me to make a high hp car out of my lsj. If I already owned a LS and a LSJ car, I would understand which would be a DD and which would be a power house.



Sent from my SPH-L710 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#80 · (Edited)
I bet for the sake of argument, that Eric the crusader of all thats right in the RL world, has spent more than he paid for his Bueweeek on his RL....

But to Tennpenn's point, I dont think so.
To wit:
shocks springs bars, essential for decent handling Redline, 1000.00
Brembo brakes, essential for any fast redline 1000.00
Tires, essential for any decent handling redline 1000.00
Option B and dual pass, minimum cooling mods 500.00 ( dont talk to me about ZZP's 75.00 part they are out of stock)
TVS, pulleys, belt, injectors, tune 2500.00
headers ,zost, etc $2000.00
am I at 10k yet?
thats not installed.

Oh you need control arms, cabs, strut mounts wheel bearings battery alternator, retros after all the car is 6 years old and has 100,000 miles on it
PS when I was a kid, I used to hate it when my dad would explain things like this , saying I could not afford it. I could not. I did it anyway. Thats why I still drive a redline and not a grosser mercedes lol
 
#81 ·
While I do respect your point, John, the topic of conversation was purely power. Your argument makes for a well-rounded Redline. Sadly, I have still not spent any money on handling, it's all been in the motor, which can be built as described above for far less than 10k.

And, no, you weren't at 10k yet... Closer to 8k.. :)
 
#83 ·
I would also like to add that a lot of money that I've spent has been more or less wasted on upgrades that were later upgraded, such as fuel injectors. I've had stock, GMS2, 60's, 79's, and now 1000's on the car. Mostly because at the time, I thought that would satisfy what I wanted out of the car, which of course is subject to change. This goes for most of my mods through the years.
 
#85 ·
by the way on that FSMR site it lists brake pads. $100 Brembo. Then u select model
LNF + 109.00.
then you select Cobalt LSJ + 97.00
then you select Ion LSJ + 71.00.

huh?
209 for brake pads??? for LNF??
197 for cobalt, and 171 for redline the same pad?
BREMBO brake pads?? for LSJ? I say bs.

My website sucks balls but the products are there, they are real, the pricing is fair and the email/paypal works.
Their website is beautiful, so is Ciphers, but it seems like not a lot of substance and sure are a lot of contradictions.
 
#88 ·
I'm already over 2k and I haven't even had the car a year yet. :rofl:

I think its cool to see a new ecotec shop out there, little more competition for the bigger guys. Though I don't really see them having any major success.

Majority of people who buy LSJs are younger people and they don't really have 10k+ to spend on there car. Theirs a reason why most the owners throw a stage 2 of some sort on and call it a day.
 
#89 ·
There are many different ways to spend money on this platform. To keep costs down, it is good to have a clear goal and only spend your money on necessities.

I personally have taken many different paths and enjoyed the process. It was a great learning process. The only purchases I regret was the money spend on different exhaust setups...I have had a lot of them...

stock exhaust
stock manifold, ZZP cat'd 3" dp, stock cat-back
GMPP exhaust manifold (which turned out to be just a ported stocker), stock cat-back
GMPP manifold, ZZP cat'd 3" dp, Magnaflow 2.5" cat-back for RL
Bad-mab shorty header
ZZP cat-less 3" dp
CTI Mid-Lenth header cat less, Magnaflow 2.5" cat-back
CTI Mid-Lenth Header cat less, CTI 3" cat-back
CTI Mid-Lenth Header cat less, LNF catback
CTI Mid-Lenth Header cat less, LNF catback with SW 24" resonator
Stock ported exhaust manifold, stock dp, stock cat-back
ZZP LT header cat'd, stock cat-back
ZZP LT header cat'd, ZZP 2.5" cat-back for RL
ZZP LT header cat less, ZZP 3" cat-back for RL

Of course those were all built to accommodate different setups.

GMS2
60s, 2.8"
TVS gasoline
TVS E85
M62 E85
ect.

I don't even want to know how much I have spent on just exhaust components...
 
#91 · (Edited)
i am with Eric on exhaust systems. I have had a few, burned by some ( can you say mandrel bentlol) the CTI stuff was good but noisy. In fact they are all noisy except the lsj muffler is great but it kills power.

I have another ideal for zost but I am struggling to spend the money on it. motor budget is killing my a**s
and PS Arm, most race tracks have noise requirements to be met at 95 dba or so at 30 ft and a cut out would not pass that at all even with a turn down.

but that would be cool branching off just before the turn to the axle over....yes. i could get excited making that with a 2 inch x 12 flat flange outlet against the rocker. I have a tool we made for making them quickly, for replacing them on the race corvettes as well.
 
#92 ·
John, that is EXACTLY what I was thinking lol
 
#94 ·
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top