Knock retard levels?

[dL_RL]

I'm wondering how much Knock retard is dangerous? I know no knock is the best, but what degrees can we get and still run the car at WOT safely?

Can my plugs being gapped wrong contribute to the high knock i'm seeing with the 2.8" pulley alone? I have my plugs gapped at 0.28" right now which PSi-FI instructions told me to do. I just havent added the powerpaq yet.

I wanted to play around with the 2.8" for alittle bit longer to see what kind of readings i'm getting.

NGK 1 step colder plugs gapped at 0.28

91 octane california gas.

2.8" pulley

18.5psi near redline

I'm seeing 2.5degree's - 3.5degree's of knock consistantly past 5000rpm.

2.5-3.5 sounds high to me. Is it really? Or am I being paranoid?

[Black 06 RedLine]

Hey dl, are you using the boost mod to?

[jmc007]

Originally Posted by dL_RL

I'm wondering how much Knock retard is dangerous? I know no knock is the best, but what degrees can we get and still run the car at WOT safely?

Can my plugs being gapped wrong contribute to the high knock i'm seeing with the 2.8" pulley alone? I have my plugs gapped at 0.28" right now which PSi-FI instructions told me to do. I just havent added the powerpaq yet.

I wanted to play around with the 2.8" for alittle bit longer to see what kind of readings i'm getting.

NGK 1 step colder plugs gapped at 0.28

91 octane california gas.

2.8" pulley

18.5psi near redline

I'm seeing 2.5degree's - 3.5degree's of knock consistantly past 5000rpm.

2.5-3.5 sounds high to me. Is it really? Or am I being paranoid?

You can test the gap at 0,035". Have you done some air fuel ratio logging with a wideband meter ? Do not wait until you melt a piston. Maybe your air fuel ratio is too lean at WOT, so your car reads the exhaust gas temperatures (and coolant too) and the knock sensor, then it pulls timing.

[dL_RL]

I have not checked my A/F ratio yet..

I will re-gap them tommorow..

I just put NOS octane booster which knocks my 91 octane to 97 octane DID NOT eliminate all of my knock. I still got a consistant 1.0-2.5 of knock a certain rpm.

[dL_RL]

I think it maybe time for me to invest in a wideband A/F gauge..

[dL_RL]

Does the Apexi S-AFCII work on the RL/Cobalt SS? I can get one for a pretty good price..

[korax123]

Octane Boosters don't work. I read somewhere before where it might bump you up a 1/2 a octane rating. Just put the power pack on and don't worry. I am going to get a 3" pully and I have no way of monitoring how my engine is running but then again it will be 3 less lbs of boost.

[Sp00ner]

I think you need about 6 bottles of octane booster to get a whole point increase, I believe the octnae booster changes one of the numbers in the octane equation 1 point, not the final product of the equation.

[cavingman]

my old avatar said 30.5. thats a dangerous level

actually i think the sensor maxes at 30. My old avatar was from when my trans let go lol

[DarricksZ28]

Off the shelf Octane booster is a gimmick. 2.5-3.5, to me, is way too much. Anything more than .5 is too much. I know GM's knock sensors record the audible noise of detonation and that's how it pulls timing. So if you're wide open over a rough road, in some vehicles "knock" will be seen by the sensor. I'm not sure about the LSJ. I would hope they have cured that problem. On the LS2 they relocated the sensor to combat false knock. Anywho, try some 100 octane or homebrew octane booster and see if it goes away. EDIT: I thought about it and don't touch the gap. It's not going to help detonation. Your best bet right now is to add straight 100 octane then run it again, if no knock then add 93 until you see knock, then you'll know what ratio you need to run. If you still see knock on straight 100, then either go to a colder plug, buy a meth injection kit, or a air/fuel tuning gadget. Either and/or all of those will solve your detonation woes.