Billetflow 3.1" Pully Installed and dyno'd

[Blue04RedLine]

I was finally able to get into the shop to have the pully installed and dyno'd, before and after the pully just like I hoped. I went to Kelly Chevrolet/Kelly Performance (for those in South Fla) and had a guy named Angel help dyno and install the pully. For most of the runs I was actually the one running the computer, which was pretty cool. So I printed out sheets for all runs in both uncorrected numbers and SAE corrected ones. The computer was using a correction factor of 1.19 all day, so I figured it would be best to have both. Well the three runs before the pully were 208/194, 214/193, 215/191. Those 3 runs were with just K&N CAI. We then installed the pully (right there w/o bothering to unstrap or remove the car). It's the 3.15 inch from Billetflow. I think the ECU was pulling timing at first, because the first three runs after the install was the first time that the car was on with the pully, and it didn't quite understand the extra air. After the first two runs, I did the little boost bypass mod, and it was extremely noticable (not only in overall power, but a longer powerband as well). Those 3 runs were 211/202, 212/199, 229/199 (<-- after the bypass mod). The sheets came out too small to read when I uploaded to photobucket so if anyone knows anyway to host them bigger let me know. I uploaded the SAE corrected sheets as well. Could that third run increase in power be caused by only the bypass mod, or was the ECU getting used to the pully? O yeah, SAE corrected numbers after the pully were 252/241, 252/237, and 273/237 (<-- after bypass mod). By those numbers, you can see why I wanted the uncorrected ones as well. Sorry for the long post also guys (and gals).




http://photobucket.com/albums/v355/c...Dyno%20Sheets/ <-- Click that for all the dyno sheets.

[AlphaJaguar5]

I think you got the SAE Uncorrected and corrected backwards unless your car makes 273whp after being corrected. Also, how did you find out that Kelly Chevrolet had a dyno? And thanks for telling us you bonehead I would of gone cuz this would of been the perfect time to get a before dyno for me You punk little UCF kid. btw I'm going up to UCF tommorrow cuz my team is playing yours Friday and Saturday night, So I'll be up in your lovely neck of the woods and I'm sure I'm going to love the 4 hour drive each way

[BilletFlow]

did you try resetting the computer

Disconnect the negitive lead for 5 min's

[ptparker]

Originally Posted by AlphaJaguar5

I think you got the SAE Uncorrected and corrected backwards unless your car makes 273whp after being corrected.

I assumed he ment 273 assumed crank hp (bhp) after SAE rules for drivetrain losses.

[ptparker]

Originally Posted by Blue04RedLine

Could that third run increase in power be caused by only the bypass mod, or was the ECU getting used to the pully?

I would think it is just the disabling of the bypass. It takes a long(er) time for ECU's to adjust.

If you look at a boost gauge with the bypass system normal (stock), but with a 3.0 pulley, it will start fluttering at about 5700 and you will have blead down to 11lbs by redline. Once you disconnect that line you continue to build boost to about 17 +/- about 2 lbs.

[Blue N Boosted]

i was there also and got my car dyno'd and lemmi tell you my heart jumped and skipped a few beats cuz it was the first time i ever got a dyno done. Anyway i dyno'd at 230 hp and 219 torque for UNCORRECTED numbers . At CORRECTED SAE numbers, i got 274 hp and 262 torque . I had 3 more runs before, that were jus testing the dyno, the computer didn't want to show torque i think it was, but those came out to: 264, 266, and 271 all only hp.

[Sp00ner]

Ummm... no way. Sorry guys. You have the exact same mods as myself, and you're trying to say that you made 40 more hp at the wheels? 273 hp is over 300 at the crank. It's near 320 to be honest. However, your first set of numbers are nearly identical to my own. When I dynoed, the correction factor was nearly 0.

Looking at the sheets, the temperature is almost 20 degrees below the SAE standard, you're at sea level, the pressure in Miami yesterday was 1009mb, and the humidity was pretty high. The high humidity is the only number that really requires correction. 20% is the amount you apply to a car dynoed at 5000' vs. sea level. I can't imagine that the humidity gave you that much, from what I'm reading doing it in a fog is worth about 7% or so. Not to mention the pressure you're at should require it to be lower. When I put those numbers into a dyno correction factor calculator, (http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm) I got a correction of .975...

I'm a little confused why the dyno is reporting the air pressure to be so much lower than it should be...

[clownhair]

where did that post go? I was just about ready to bring my wrath down upon him.................with my cane

[Sp00ner]

Originally Posted by clownhair

where did that post go? I was just about ready to bring my wrath down upon him.................with my cane

I'm sorry, I should have left it for ya... hehe... what a tool..

Just by comparing IP's from him, and a few others, I'm pretty sure he's one of our more regular users, one that's get's owned when I argue with them, and one that doesn't have large enough balls to say it with their real name. No biggie... back on topic now...

[Blue N Boosted]

Im jus typing what the paperwork said...what i see is what i type....let me and blue04redline kno how to make the pictures links to larger pictures so you all can see what we see. any help would be appreciated...but like i said what i see is what i type.