Electronics for the Redline

[ptparker]

Originally Posted by Sp00ner

Now the SMT, that's doing the same thing, but it's operating on a couple of different sensor values all at once, instead of just the MAF signal. Right?

Exactly, the smt varies its 'modified' MAF value based on other sensor readings (whatever ones you want to set up) AND its internal tables.

Originally Posted by Sp00ner

The issues come in, once the car knows that something is outside of tolerance, by running it's misc 'rationality' checks, correct?

Yes.

But don't forget about the timing peice. None of the MAF manipulators help you very much with this.

[Sp00ner]

Originally Posted by ptparker

But don't forget about the timing peice. None of the MAF manipulators help you very much with this.

Which is where the SMT shines above the others? Since it allows you to access SOME values that mod the timing a bit. Correct?

[ptparker]

Originally Posted by Sp00ner

Which is where the SMT shines above the others? Since it allows you to access SOME values that mod the timing a bit. Correct?

Yes, but even just as a MAF-T, it allows you FAR more control. TC would have to chime in here on if the SMT6 tunes the ignition directly or if he has to manipulate sensors that ECU reads to adjustion the timing.

On their website, the SMT claims it directly controls timing.

I CANT WAIT TO GET MY SMT6... HOPEFULLY I WILL GET IT IN TWO WEEKS!!!!

[Twincharged]

The thing about the LSJ is that it has whats called an "Odd Tooth Crank Trigger" this crank tooth pattern replicates it's self every other turn of the crank so it can not be advanced with the SMT6 only retarded. Once again from my data logging, the LSJ doesn't run a whole lot of ignition timing compaired to the SRT-4. 22degrees peak compaired to 30+ degrees on the SRT-4 (talk about riding the knock sensors). The way I wired the SMT6 it does not have direct control over timing only fuel. For me this is not an issue. I prefer to run boost vs. timing for more HP.

[Sp00ner]

Yeah, I'm hitting about 24 degrees peak for the highest recorded timing that I have...

Here's a question TC, when I get up to about 6000 rpms, I notice some 'hesitation', feels like a 'surging'. The colder it is, the worse it is. Also, it seems to be tied to boost. I'm hitting like 17 before the bleed comes on in real cold air. I've been assuming that I'm running lean to the point of knock. Do you think that is accurate, or am I feeling the car becoming unhappy with the boost and pulling timing? This isn't something that was nearly as pronounced when it was warmer and my boost was maxing at 15psi with the boost-bypass mod. I won't have knock retard readings until I get my Interceptor back from reprogramming, so I can't tell if it's knock for certain.

[Twincharged]

Originally Posted by Sp00ner

Yeah, I'm hitting about 24 degrees peak for the highest recorded timing that I have...

Here's a question TC, when I get up to about 6000 rpms, I notice some 'hesitation', feels like a 'surging'. The colder it is, the worse it is. Also, it seems to be tied to boost. I'm hitting like 17 before the bleed comes on in real cold air. I've been assuming that I'm running lean to the point of knock. Do you think that is accurate, or am I feeling the car becoming unhappy with the boost and pulling timing? This isn't something that was nearly as pronounced when it was warmer and my boost was maxing at 15psi with the boost-bypass mod. I won't have knock retard readings until I get my Interceptor back from reprogramming, so I can't tell if it's knock for certain.

It is colder so the aircharge is denser requiring more fuel. Chances are you are running lean.

[Sp00ner]

That's what I was thinking... need to get a wideband before I blow up my car...

[ptparker]

Originally Posted by Twincharged

It is colder so the aircharge is denser requiring more fuel. Chances are you are running lean.

I have the same issue. I am running a 3.0 pulley (spooner is running that or close to it). I see my knock hit 2 degrees consistantly in line with my shift light (set at 6k) and it will climb to 3 or 4 by redline. I notice this the most in third gear, as the car spends quite a bit of time climbing through to top of third.

It is most definatly not a great thing, but i think as long as the knock sensor is doing its job, it isn't hurting anything.

A friend of mine thinks that by putting a 75 or 100 shot, direct port nitrous, tuned a little rich would cool the temps down and give a little boost and do away with the knock.

[Sp00ner]

Werd! Is this something that I need to be scared of, or is that acceptable. I know that 0 knock is what you're looking for...

[Twincharged]

WHat kind of plugs do you have and what are they gapped at? Try running a colder plug gapped at .028"

I am running an extreamly cold plug from my racecar gapped at .028" Which could account for my lack of detonation as well.