I've owned my Redline for over 5 years now, and the clutch that came with the car was never right. It'd slip on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts from time to time, and after a hard pull wouldn't disengage all the time.
I'd never made it a priority to replace due to financial reasons and the fact that it worked fine for everything but sustained WOT. Recently I noticed the clutch getting steadily worse, and since I'm not paying for 2 houses now, decided to replace it.
I ordered a new LSJ flywheel from ZZP and the GMPP clutch upgrade from Crate Engine Depot. Tom at CED was great, since GM had backordered the clutches and I had to wait over a month to get my hands on one. It was through no fault of CED, and Tom was great with the communication. I had the clutch in my grubby little hands really quickly once CED got them back in stock. So props to CED, great people to deal with.
I learned a few things during the install.
- This install is best suited for a shop with a lift and more than one person for ease of install
- When the book time is listed at 9 hours, they weren't playing. I put about 13 total actual work hours in this project over the course of a week. You could get it done in a weekend easily with 2 people. I don't have that luxury.
- When the Build Book says to get the engine as low as possible to ease removal/install, they weren't playing
- Breaking 13 year old suspension parts loose can be a PITA
- You absolutely need a 18mm stubby for this install
- It sucks to work behind a previous shoddy install
Anyway, on to the pics.
Engine and transmission without the cradle in the way. If you need to do any work that involves the bottom of the engine, now is your chance.
Cradle on the ground, this thing weighs almost as much as the transaxle by itself.
I had to actually pull the intermediate shaft to get the transmission on the ground, since the passenger axle was thoroughly stuck. Since I was doing a drain/refill with MT90 anyway, I went ahead and pulled the driver's axle for ease of handling as well. I'm glad I did, one less thing to worry about.
Here's the F35 on the ground, you can see the input shaft leak behind the TOB. I finally found the mysterious leak that'd been leaving drips on my garage floor for about a year now.
The F35 doesn't seem that big with it out of the car sitting on the garage floor. It weighs maybe 100 lbs.
The old LuK clutch.
Closeup of the input shaft/TOB on the F35.
ZZP flywheel and GMPP clutch in place. Make sure that you replace the flywheel bolts and put the extra twist on them since they're torque-to-yield.
I used a cheapo Harbor Freight Transmission jack to get the transmission back in place. I don't know what I would have done without it. You can see the 2x4s that I used to level the back end of the transmission up to get everything to line up.
It took about 20 or so cycles of using a vacuum pump on the master cylinder to get the pedal back.
The car runs and drives great with the new clutch, and the engagement is slowly coming up off the floor as it breaks in. I'm planning on a track visit in a week to see what I can get out of the car with the M62 before I go for the turbo swap. I'll report back here as I put some more miles on the GMPP.
This clutch seems to be a good upgrade for the money. I spent about $730 all told between the clutch, flywheel, transmission jack, engine support, and fluid. I saved myself about $900 in labor costs by doing it myself though, and at least I know it's done right.