Replacing gaskets with stage 3 - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing gaskets with stage 3

Will be ordering stage 3 kit soon. I will also be putting on midlength header and dp, dual pass, and option b. While I'm at it I want to replace any gaskets that may be worn. I was thinking of ordering:

exhaust gasket
intake manifold gasket
tb gasket (cuz it's stretched)
laminova O rings
supercharger gasket

Any other gaskets I should be replacing or any on the list that i most likely won't need to replace?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-09-2017, 10:44 PM
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The intake manifold and laminova rings are going to be super important, be triple sure you have those ready to go when you install!
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome, I will add those to my order. Thank you!
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 09:08 PM
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I have pretty much your same setup. Only gasket I replaced was the exhaust gasket from header to dp.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 12:19 AM
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Make sure you follow the instructions carefully and search these forums on info about doing option b and especially the dual pass. When doing the option b you will have to tap and dye an air bleed hole in the intake manifold. And make sure you have a lot of patience the hoses are really seized on there. And while your doing this it would be the prefect time to replace intercooler pump itself and check the wiring to it as well

Good luck your going to need it
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djames View Post
Make sure you follow the instructions carefully and search these forums on info about doing option b and especially the dual pass. When doing the option b you will have to tap and dye an air bleed hole in the intake manifold. And make sure you have a lot of patience the hoses are really seized on there. And while your doing this it would be the prefect time to replace intercooler pump itself and check the wiring to it as well

Good luck your going to need it
Tap and dye an air bleed hole? Wtf you tellin him? The air bleed is on top of the stock he.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDLINE1313 View Post
Tap and dye an air bleed hole? Wtf you tellin him? The air bleed is on top of the stock he.
2nd. Just use an adapter fitting to use the stock bleeder.

IIRC, it's 1/8th NPT. I used an elbow into a barb. I did have to go to an actual local hardware store to find one, not HD or Lowes.

Edit: I was nice enough to go to my shed and take a pic.


Last edited by Rebel Redline; 05-11-2017 at 10:31 AM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys this will be good stuff to know, I think I've heard about people doing what djames is talking about, but if there is an easier route I will definitely take it.

Thanks for the pic rebel, being able to actually see it really helps.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 01:12 PM
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While you're in there, it's a lot easier to go ahead and cut all the hoses off and use worm clamps on the new connections.

Get 3 or so 90 3/4" elbows and about 3 3/4" Tees. Buy some bulk hose and just run everything how it needs to go. Keep some of the stock hose and use some plumbers lube to fit everything together. Trust me, it'll make your life easier. Be prepared for every clamp and hose to be glued on.

Also, be easy with the laminovas and be sure you clock them right.



I also always used a 80% Distilled H20 and 20% Dexcool mix with Water Wetter added. Used to see only 145 or so at the end of a pull and had quick recovery.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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That's great advice, I will definitely do that. How long would you expect a typical dual pass and option b to take to install
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