nitrous question//what is the popular kit

[BlkCSS]

what N2o kits can we use on our cars with MINIMAL modifications?
any info or links to them would help me out...any instal advise as well!!

thanks

p.s. i'm not here for people to say dont do it or anything like that...i'm gonna do it i just dont know whats out there for our cars

[fullthrottle]

Originally Posted by BlkCSS

what N2o kits can we use on our cars with MINIMAL modifications?
any info or links to them would help me out...any instal advise as well!!

thanks

p.s. i'm not here for people to say dont do it or anything like that...i'm gonna do it i just dont know whats out there for our cars

I use the nitrous express stage 1 kit GM kit works well. ive actuvated it 3 times once at 35 hp and the other two at 50 and 75 hp. if you are going to use juice, please do you and your engine a favior and get a accessory upgrade kit. nitrous express calls their upgrade kit genx 2. it includes a bottle heater, fuel presser safty switch and a purge valve. id also recommend a good air fuel gauge, this is critical when using nitrous. if you are a nitrous junkie and love to activate it all the time, id suggest getting some forged pistons. As far as install its pretty strait foward dont try to mount your bottle where the spare tire goes it wont fit the carpet will not lay down flat. if you mount you bottle to the left or the right of your trunk there is a beam underneath the car that you will have to drill a hole in to put all four mounting bolts in. i personally only have three bolts holding my bottle in because i didnt want to drill through the beam. i have pics somewhere ill try to find them or maby take some new ones.

[BlkCSS]

pics would be very helpfull!!!

how hard is it to run all the lines?

where did u tap for fuel?

[fullthrottle]

Originally Posted by BlkCSS

pics would be very helpfull!!!

how hard is it to run all the lines?

where did u tap for fuel?

there is a valve cap looking thing on the fuel rail this is a fuel pressure test port that is used by technicians to test fuel pressure. you remove the black cap and get your self a valve stem removal tool and unscrew the schrader valve and then connect your fuel line/fuel solenoid there. when you remove the schrader valve becarefull. its under some pretty good pressure and fuel will spray allover use a shop rag to cover the port when removing the schrader valve and wear some safety glasses. as far as routing the nitrous line you can rout it under the car or throught the interior. if you go through the interior just be sure you dont rout it where someone or something can restrict nitrous flow. i routed mine under the car along the brake and fuel lines using zip ties to secure it along the way. be sure to keep it awat from moving parts and extreme heat (ie dont run it right on top of the exhaust pipes or manifold/header) im not saying that to insult your intellegence im just saying this to help you out. when yopu do get your system when you fill your bottle be sure you buy a nitrous filter to GREATLY reduce the chance of dirty nitrous. dont buy a dry nitrous system it depends on your fuel pump and your ecu to supply fuel. it is less safe then a wet system and less accurate. otheres here might tell you its ok to run a dry system and i might very well be but its not as safe for the above stated reasons bottom line. and at 4,500 for a new engine id rather have the extra insurance. im not saying that i know it all when it comes to nitrous but ive been playing with it for a while and ive never blown up an engine yet.

[BlkCSS]

excelent!!!! you've been most helpfull!!!

can you post any pics? thanks for all the info i cant waite to get this finished up!!

where do you get a Nitrous filter that you speek of?

[dL_RL]

I'm interested in a nitrous wet system using 3-4 sneaky pete bottles and hiding them where my spare tire is.

I am a cheater I know, but fuck.. a win is a win!

[Schizzo97SC2]

there's actually a procedure to relieve fuel pressure before removing that valve. pull the fuel pump relay, take off the gas cap, and relieve pressure from teh test port, then try to crank it, it should take about all pressure out of the line.

stock pistons are forged

and though it's never bad to have a wideband, I dont' see why it would be a necessity here since your shot is using fixed jets, not something you can adjust when you see it going lean. though it is good ot have that info anyway in case of any fluctuations.

you can route the line through the inside of the car, its suggested by some kits as to not damage the line, just put it where it can't get pinched as fullthrottle mentioned.

you can find nitrous filters at www.jegs.com or www.summitracing.com or even on ebay now, they're a good investment as well. some people lately have been bypassing the fuel pressure switch because they have been failing somewhat often.

dL those sneaky pete bottles are good for maybe one run each. the idea is solid but it's not worth it compared to running a single 10lb bottle.

youll want colder heat range plugs too, at least one step

there were some guys with Cobalt SS/SC's here running dry 50 shots before the MAF with much success, but I personally prefer a wet kit myself (as I have actually hahaha).

I'd invest in a window switch too since there is that pain of the rev limiter there that stops like a brick wall, and you DO NOT want to hit that while spraying.

[fullthrottle]

Originally Posted by Schizzo97SC2

there's actually a procedure to relieve fuel pressure before removing that valve. pull the fuel pump relay, take off the gas cap, and relieve pressure from teh test port, then try to crank it, it should take about all pressure out of the line.

stock pistons are forged

and though it's never bad to have a wideband, I dont' see why it would be a necessity here since your shot is using fixed jets, not something you can adjust when you see it going lean. though it is good ot have that info anyway in case of any fluctuations.

you can route the line through the inside of the car, its suggested by some kits as to not damage the line, just put it where it can't get pinched as fullthrottle mentioned.

you can find nitrous filters at www.jegs.com or www.summitracing.com or even on ebay now, they're a good investment as well. some people lately have been bypassing the fuel pressure switch because they have been failing somewhat often.

dL those sneaky pete bottles are good for maybe one run each. the idea is solid but it's not worth it compared to running a single 10lb bottle.

youll want colder heat range plugs too, at least one step

there were some guys with Cobalt SS/SC's here running dry 50 shots before the MAF with much success, but I personally prefer a wet kit myself (as I have actually hahaha).

I'd invest in a window switch too since there is that pain of the rev limiter there that stops like a brick wall, and you DO NOT want to hit that while spraying.

really? I was told they're hypereutetic. heres a link to a build up done on one of our engines that says the stock pistons are eutetic. http://www.fastfieros.com/tech/ecotecpart1.pdf I could be wrong though. good catch on the window switch. I forgot to mention that. vary important especially if you dont shift in time

[Sinister redlines]

"stock pistons are forged"

Wrong, wrong, wrong, Just another example that nobody does the proper research. It has been proven in the gm perf parts build books (300+ lsj, ecotec build book, and the perf parts catalog) that the pistons are hypereutactic. Not to mention I have a engine here that I am building and have held the pistons in my hand and I am positive its not forged.

[Sinister redlines]

If you want pics for proof just let me know and I will be more than happy to provide them.