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Coolant warning keeps coming on

32K views 51 replies 14 participants last post by  kevinmmccormick 
#1 ·
This just started happening in the past week or so. My coolant warning comes on here and there. When it comes on, I will go and look and the coolant level will be around where the 2 tubes meet (right under the resiveur) So, i'll put some in, and literally like 30 minutes later it will come back on. Then I will look like an hour later and will be fine even without adding any additional coolant.

I am thinking that I have an air bubble somewhere. How do you bleed the stock HE? Thats the only place I can think of where it could be. I have "jiggled" the tubing as much as I could several times. And it seems to be fine. But if this potential bubble is sitting to where I can't get to it like that, then it would only come in short "bursts" right?

Can someone help me?
 
#4 ·
Track Slut said:
ur pump is shot what do you expect lol you need to fix that
Well that may be true :)lol:) It doesn't explain why sometimes it would be full and sometimes it would be low. Like, i'd bet if I went out to my car now (been sitting outside for about an hour) it would be fine. But as soon as I start it it is going to give me the message again.
 
#5 · (Edited)
OMG...you guys are kidding me?! There is something wrong with the engine coolant system, not intercooler system. There are no sensors in the intercooler system to warn you of issues. The only electrical stuff in the intercooler system is simply the line running to the Bosch pump used in the system which does nothing but powers it on and off.

Check your engine coolant bottle and make sure before starting the car (and it sitting) you have enough coolant to the point where it says on the front "Cold Fill Level."

My "COOLANT" message comes up to, thats what it is, the engine coolant!

EDIT: Also, the only warniing messages you will see if the intercooler system is if your system rich CEL comes up (AIT2 is too high for what the engine is calibrated for) thus the intercooler system is insufficent = density of air is out of whack and too much gas is in for the mixture. Also, your spark plugs will be fouled and the engine will cut out (like you're hitting the rev limiter) at less than normal rpms, such as 5000rpm.

^~~These are also the symptoms the GM Tech Line has to tell whether or not the intercooler pump is working, regardless of the obvious of whether or not coolant is flowing.
 
#7 ·
vandy0419 said:
OMG...you guys are kidding me?! There is something wrong with the engine coolant system, not intercooler system. There are no sensors in the intercooler system to warn you of issues. The only electrical stuff in the intercooler system is simply the line running to the Bosch pump used in the system which does nothing but powers it on and off.

Check your engine coolant bottle and make sure before starting the car (and it sitting) you have enough coolant to the point where it says on the front "Cold Fill Level."

My "COOLANT" message comes up to, thats what it is, the engine coolant!

EDIT: Also, the only warniing messages you will see if the intercooler system is if your system rich CEL comes up (AIT2 is too high for what the engine is calibrated for) thus the intercooler system is insufficent = density of air is out of whack and too much gas is in for the mixture. Also, your spark plugs will be fouled and the engine will cut out (like you're hitting the rev limiter) at less than normal rpms, such as 5000rpm.

^~~These are also the symptoms the GM Tech Line has to tell whether or not the intercooler pump is working, regardless of the obvious of whether or not coolant is flowing.
I'm curious as to where the collant goes though after I put more in. hmmmm. . .

But just FTR, i'm pretty sure my pump is fucked anyways lol
 
#8 ·
redline13 said:
I'm curious as to where the collant goes though after I put more in. hmmmm. . .

As you start driving, since there is coolant just sitting in the intercooler cores (based that your pump is broken) it doesn't do anything but start to boil and it will expand and overflow...then once it cools down, it looks no different from the last time. I had the issue for months before replacing the pump.

But just FTR, i'm pretty sure my pump is fucked anyways lol
Yeah, your intercooler pump may very well be fucked, but its not what is causing the message center to show "coolant." If the dealership won't fix the intercooler pump, you can get one off eBay...look under "lightning pump." Same pump on our car as the Ford Lightning and they're like $100 shipped off eBay. Dealership will want over $300.
 
#9 ·
vandy0419 said:
redline13 said:
I'm curious as to where the collant goes though after I put more in. hmmmm. . .

As you start driving, since there is coolant just sitting in the intercooler cores (based that your pump is broken) it doesn't do anything but start to boil and it will expand and overflow...then once it cools down, it looks no different from the last time. I had the issue for months before replacing the pump.



Yeah, your intercooler pump may very well be fucked, but its not what is causing the message center to show "coolant." If the dealership won't fix the intercooler pump, you can get one off eBay...look under "lightning pump." Same pump on our car as the Ford Lightning and they're like $100 shipped off eBay. Dealership will want over $300.
Yeah, I was looking on LPF too, I think they are only like $130 there too. But my warrenty is up, so i'm hesitant to take it up there.
 
#11 ·
I'd check for a blown headgasket. Don't waste money an an intercooler pump. That will not cause a coolant liht to come on. Mine shorted out totally and the only warning was real fucking high IAT2's. Which reservoir are you filling? The s/c one or the engine reservoir? And the easiest way to bleed the HE systemis to run it hard and fill it back up. Then run it hard and fill it up. Then run it hard and fill it up. Then run it hard and you won't have to fill it up. That's when it's full.
 
#12 ·
redline13 said:
vandy0419 said:
Yeah, I was looking on LPF too, I think they are only like $130 there too. But my warrenty is up, so i'm hesitant to take it up there.

i just ordered one on saturday off ebay for 80 bucks... the guy had like 10 more at the same price. and he sent it out monday, and it will be here thrusday. let me know if you want his info.

vandy0419 said:
EDIT: Also, the only warniing messages you will see if the intercooler system is if your system rich CEL comes up (AIT2 is too high for what the engine is calibrated for) thus the intercooler system is insufficent = density of air is out of whack and too much gas is in for the mixture. Also, your spark plugs will be fouled and the engine will cut out (like you're hitting the rev limiter) at less than normal rpms, such as 5000rpm.

^~~These are also the symptoms the GM Tech Line has to tell whether or not the intercooler pump is working, regardless of the obvious of whether or not coolant is flowing.
my IC pump has been bad for a bit, and i have every single one of those sympotms, even the P0172(rich code)... they seem to be worse when its cold out. most of the symptoms like the mystery floating rev limiter seem to go away when the wheather is warm:shrug03: my plugs HAVE to be fouled... my IC pump has been out for WAY to long. i also ordered a set of ngk plugs 2 steps colder... the autolites im running now are dog shit imho... of course the fact that my IC pump not working probably fouled em pretty quick.

also, i have an eratic putting noise from my exhaust. can barly hear it unless you kneel down and listen real close to the tail pipe... just a little put put putput, every few seconds or so, im thinking it is also related to my spark plug/intercooler problem, as well as my P0300 code

hopfully my new pump and plugs will be here and installed this weekend
 
#14 ·
Mine didn't and the pump was totally inop. It was shorted out. Plus, that light is for low coolant, not coolant system performance. I ran my car with no coolant in the intercooler when my cores were leaking several times. Empty, as in adding about 1/2 gallon each time and never got a coolant light. Drain your engine reservoir and that light will come on in a second. Better yet, get a pencil and pump the float down inside the tank and see what happens. You'll get a coolant light on the dash.
 
#15 ·
If it helps, my coolant light came one when i got the car from the dealer. After it came on several times, and didn't appear low, i took it to the dealer. They said it was barely below the line. If the coolant is just the slightest bit low, it apparently triggers the coolant warning.
 
#16 ·
ganj4life said:
i dont know why theses ppl say the light wont come on im almost positive it will because mine was on when my pump was bad but check that fuse if its blown u need a new pump, and 15 amper emiss control fuse.
mine has been out for months :lol: i know i know im an idiot for not replacing it sooner.... but i have NEVER gotten a coolant light. have all the other symptoms, and the coolant is deff not flowing, but i have never had a coolant warning... and im not so sure my fuse is blown either... i looked before but not as close as i should have... which fuze is it again?
 
#17 ·
rlinbatonrouge said:
Mine didn't and the pump was totally inop. It was shorted out. Plus, that light is for low coolant, not coolant system performance. I ran my car with no coolant in the intercooler when my cores were leaking several times. Empty, as in adding about 1/2 gallon each time and never got a coolant light. Drain your engine reservoir and that light will come on in a second. Better yet, get a pencil and pump the float down inside the tank and see what happens. You'll get a coolant light on the dash.

when your cores were leaking, where were they leaking to, and what did you do to fix, new cores??? wouldnt the cores leaking be REALLY REALY BAD? would they not leak right into the intake manifold and into the cylinder? my bad if this is a dumb question, i really dont know shit about intercoolers though.
 
#18 ·
#19 ·
rlinbatonrouge said:

wow that is shitty. i had to add a little bit of coolant to mine right before the pump stopped working, and then it seemed to go down again just a little, but then the pump started working and its been at the same level ever since. wonder if mine might be leaking:shrug03: eh, ill get the rest of this shit straight then ill worry about the possiblity of a leak.
 
#20 ·
Like vandy said, it has nothing to do with your intercooling system. Just add some dexcool to your engine coolant resivour and you should be fine. If not repost and there are some other solutions.
 
#21 ·
rlinbatonrouge said:
I'd check for a blown headgasket. Don't waste money an an intercooler pump. That will not cause a coolant liht to come on. Mine shorted out totally and the only warning was real fucking high IAT2's. Which reservoir are you filling? The s/c one or the engine reservoir? And the easiest way to bleed the HE systemis to run it hard and fill it back up. Then run it hard and fill it up. Then run it hard and fill it up. Then run it hard and you won't have to fill it up. That's when it's full.

I'm not saying the IC pump is definately his problem but your information is at least partially misguided when it comes to a bad IC pump causing the coolant light to come on. If the pump's power feed from the EMISS fuse shorts to ground and opens the fuse, the power feed to the coolant level sensor will also be cut as it also gets its power from the EMISS fuse. So while the coolant warning isn't coming on because of pump performance, the warning will come on because the signal from the level sensor in the Engine coolant bottle is lost. If this is indeed his problem, the MIL would be on and multiple DTC's would be set. If not, his problem lies elsewhere.

All this being said, it is possible for the IC pump to fail mechanically without actually grounding out and blowing the fuse.
 
#22 ·
SWCRedline said:
I'm not saying the IC pump is definately his problem but your information is at least partially misguided when it comes to a bad IC pump causing the coolant light to come on. If the pump's power feed from the EMISS fuse shorts to ground and opens the fuse, the power feed to the coolant level sensor will also be cut as it also gets its power from the EMISS fuse. So while the coolant warning isn't coming on because of pump performance, the warning will come on because the signal from the level sensor in the Engine coolant bottle is lost. If this is indeed his problem, the MIL would be on and multiple DTC's would be set. If not, his problem lies elsewhere.

All this being said, it is possible for the IC pump to fail mechanically without actually grounding out and blowing the fuse.
:wave: like mine
 
#23 ·
SWCRedline said:
I'm not saying the IC pump is definately his problem but your information is at least partially misguided when it comes to a bad IC pump causing the coolant light to come on. If the pump's power feed from the EMISS fuse shorts to ground and opens the fuse, the power feed to the coolant level sensor will also be cut as it also gets its power from the EMISS fuse. So while the coolant warning isn't coming on because of pump performance, the warning will come on because the signal from the level sensor in the Engine coolant bottle is lost. If this is indeed his problem, the MIL would be on and multiple DTC's would be set. If not, his problem lies elsewhere.

All this being said, it is possible for the IC pump to fail mechanically without actually grounding out and blowing the fuse.
That is correct, but it would not account for adding coolant and making the light go off. A blown fuse like that would keep the light on constantly. IIRC, his light goes out after he fills his reservoir. If the fuse was open that light would stay on.
 
#24 ·
Ok, so I looked at it last night and this morning. Last night it was fine, got a warning here and there, but the coolant was never low. Today I did not get any warnings, and the coolant was also not low.

I think this car is bi-polar. :werd:
 
#25 ·
Which coolant? The level in the s/c will rise with temp. The level for the engine should stay constant. Which one are you looking at?
 
#26 ·
rlinbatonrouge said:
Which coolant? The level in the s/c will rise with temp. The level for the engine should stay constant. Which one are you looking at?
The main resiveur infront of the sc.
 
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