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passlock procedure

6K views 29 replies 16 participants last post by  speeding ticket 
#1 ·
i tried searching, but to no avail. i know its posted here though, my friend might have a passlock issue, he ll be posting here soon. eitherway can some1 plz post that link?
 
#3 ·
actually i JUST went thru this 2 nights ago. i ordered a new switch and removed the old one. it was a biotch for me tho, i busted both knuckles cuz of the lack of room. but the procedure goes like this. turn the key to start...and it should not start, so release the key and it will go to run (so the passlock light is on and blinking). let sit for 10 mintues. come back, turn the key to off for 5 seconds. then attempt to start again...and it should not start...so relsease key again to "run". passlock light wil come on. repeat that one more time (a total of 3 times). on the last time, after the passlcok light has went out, turn key off for 5 seconds, then attempt to start and it should work. that might be alil confusin, hopefully u got it tho. ask QCs R4 girls. she helped me thru prety much the whole procedure. good luck.
 
#4 ·
thnx 4 the input guys, i pmed him this link. he removed the board thinggy that holds fuses in the engine bay, near the ecu. there was a spark n now his car wont start. its definately not the battery, all the accesories and lights are working and all the fuses are fine. he mentioned that the starter is trying.... but it wont start. my only guess is that maybe his rl thought it was getting stolen and went into passlock.... any ideas?
 
#5 ·
hm i duno. to my understanding, it doesnt sound like passlock. is the passlock light blinkin or anything when he tries to start it? like constant blinking? if not, i duno if its that, specially if u hear the starter, or at least something taht sounds like the car is trying to start...
 
#7 ·
sheek360 said:
he tried jumping it, but to no avail. he was doing some clean up in his engine compartment. he was moving his nitrous n fuel silenoids and such.
oo thats outta my department...dunno nothing about all that...i duno man. hopefully someone helps him/you out cuz i kno how frustrating haveing ur car not start is...
 
#8 ·
Issue

sheek360 said:
thnx 4 the input guys, i pmed him this link. he removed the board thinggy that holds fuses in the engine bay, near the ecu. there was a spark n now his car wont start. its definately not the battery, all the accesories and lights are working and all the fuses are fine. he mentioned that the starter is trying.... but it wont start. my only guess is that maybe his rl thought it was getting stolen and went into passlock.... any ideas?
I took off the fuse box complete off along with the ecu...Call me dum but I did not disconnect the batter...when im getting around this thing,I take off a screw that was close to a metal which had ground and my rachet sprak which i did not pay much attention to but I did go and take my batter off cause I had completly forgotten that I was messing with (+)&(-)..So i continued to take everything off, achived my goal of what i was trying to do .... but ..... when crank time came along all components turn on.Radar,Tv,Ac fans Etc but no crank not even a spike sound which i normally hear when the starter is trying(Sheek is wrong the car never cranked.I went down there and gave the starter (+) to see if it would crank and it did.So My main Question is What does the cable From the pics Below Go to...it seems to go inside the car...But Where..





 
#9 ·
hate to say it but i think you fried your bcm or pcm. there is a tsb for "pwr str" message being intermittently displayed after an improper jump-start, using that pin, rather than the one that sticks up through the fuse box top. something about that needing to have a specific voltage or voltage drop for things to work right.
 
#12 ·
You guys are so negative.... Ill post feedback later today Im going to start now and trace the hole steps over and see if maybe there is a connection problem with th fuse box.... maybe my clutch bypass(for remote start) Had a problem.....But i need some one That really knows where that cable goes and what happens when an Ecu is fried...My pass lock works everything inside works ....Hard facts guys and dont be so negative Help Out!!!!
 
#13 ·
I had passlock issue.. had the ignition switch replaced under warranty and it works fine now.. A jump should work though, but you have to leave it connected for a min or so with the other car running before you crank it, or just turn to run and let sit for like ten mins, turn off then turn to start and it should fire right up.. both those helped me until i got it fixed..
 
#14 ·
sorry quickly reread your post. as long as you didn't spark those two connectors together, then you should be okay on the ECU said. If they shorted out by crossing a ratchet between them if you were loosening them, then you could have fried the ECU.
 
#16 · (Edited)
burnrubr88 said:
actually i JUST went thru this 2 nights ago. i ordered a new switch and removed the old one. it was a biotch for me tho, i busted both knuckles cuz of the lack of room. but the procedure goes like this. turn the key to start...and it should not start, so release the key and it will go to run (so the passlock light is on and blinking). let sit for 10 mintues. come back, turn the key to off for 5 seconds. then attempt to start again...and it should not start...so relsease key again to "run". passlock light wil come on. repeat that one more time (a total of 3 times). on the last time, after the passlcok light has went out, turn key off for 5 seconds, then attempt to start and it should work. that might be alil confusin, hopefully u got it tho. ask QCs R4 girls. she helped me thru prety much the whole procedure. good luck.
It worked for you? That's great! I was kinda worried after I gave you a half-assed step by step.

But yeah. Now I'm more familiar with the procedure so I could definitely help you through it... if thats whats wrong.
 
#18 ·
Mattman6 said:
when i get it, i turn the key three times on and off. Then on the third keep it at on, until the passlock icon goes off. Works everytime for me :)
thanks much man,i was on my way to see a patient this morning and the damn car wouldnt start....everything dead with the passlock icon flashing!..i remembered reading this post,followed the instructions above and presto!!!!!! the car started right up!..thanks again!..colm.
 
#19 ·
silversatrn said:
thanks much man,i was on my way to see a patient this morning and the damn car wouldnt start....everything dead with the passlock icon flashing!..i remembered reading this post,followed the instructions above and presto!!!!!! the car started right up!..thanks again!..colm.
yeah matts said that works for him usually, but a few days ago, it went in to passlock he said, and did the thing he usualyl does, and it didnt work for him, so i had to tell him about the 30 mintue relearn. im guessing if it works after the thing u and matt did, teh switch is on its way out, and will soon not work at all unless u do the 30 min relearn or new switch.
 
#20 ·
burnrubr88 said:
yeah matts said that works for him usually, but a few days ago, it went in to passlock he said, and did the thing he usualyl does, and it didnt work for him, so i had to tell him about the 30 mintue relearn. im guessing if it works after the thing u and matt did, teh switch is on its way out, and will soon not work at all unless u do the 30 min relearn or new switch.
DO YOU KNOW HOW MUCH AN IGNITION SWITCH AND INSTALL RUNS??..SORRY!..CAPS!
 
#21 ·
silversatrn said:
DO YOU KNOW HOW MUCH AN IGNITION SWITCH AND INSTALL RUNS??..SORRY!..CAPS!
STOP YELLING!! lol. yeah, i went to saturnparts.net and ordered on or u can order one from ur dealer. there betwee 35-40 bucks. and i installed it myself. pretty easy, but if ur in warranty have them do it fo sho. i thought i broke somethin as i was doin, but it was a piece of the old swtich that i broke. im outta warranty, and my duechebag dealer quoted my 200-250 for instal, plus cost of switch. i said F that and did it myself. QC R4 girls helped me out, ask her if u need some further help on it/
 
#23 ·
burnrubr88 said:
i thought i broke somethin as i was doin, but it was a piece of the old swtich that i broke. im outta warranty, and my duechebag dealer quoted my 200-250 for instal, plus cost of switch. i said F that and did it myself. QC R4 girls helped me out, ask her if u need some further help on it/
You and me both... But honestly, hardest part about the whole thing is prying the old piece of crap switch out of the housing. Don't worry if it breaks because you're obviously not going to need it anymore. (I got mine out in one piece, which is why I was so incredibly confused when you asked me about it :shrug03: ). Just make sure you have enough time to do the whole procedure. Don't try to cut short the wait time in between each cycle or else you'll have to start over. It's got nothing to do with being handy, honestly. Just stubborn, have some muscular ability to pry apart a couple pieces of plastic, and be patient. Any other questions, I'm around here quite frequently.
 
#24 ·
i would like to profess my pure hatred for passlock. Im flying out on biz today and trying to run some errands. I believe i tried to quick start the car and put it in to passlock...this is the first time ive done it myself.

I've disco'd the battery, tried what has been suggested on here, and so far the only thing that passlock has kept the car from in 3 years is ME starting it!!!!
 
#26 ·
burnrubber88 is dead on with that procedure btw, my dad is a lead mechanic at saturn and thats exactly the procedure, its also the procedure when installing a new passlock sensor, also if you install it yourself, except new ones can take up to 4 times...
 
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