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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 06:55 PM
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you can even do it from the top. 32mm socket and a breaker bar. 10mm socket to remove valve cover.

remove valve cover. remove tensioner. compress new tensioner. install new tensioner (55 ft-lb). put a screwdriver down against the chain guide and strike sharply to release the new tensioner. install valve cover.

my haynes manual has a pretty good description of the steps needed.



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A: First, you screw. Then, you bolt.
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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do they have hayne's manuals at the library?
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 07:14 PM
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i have the haynes manual but its for a cobalt should be the same thing right? so im kind of confused..... so u said the hex bolt sticks out what does that have to do with it if you have to remove your valve cover?

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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 07:24 PM
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:facepalm:

the hex bolt is the tensioner. the tensioner screws into the side of the block or head. you cannot remove the tensioner out from under the valve cover.

removing the valve cover allows you to properly release the compressed tensioner. you must install the tensioner in the compressed position or you will damage the chain or guide. if you do not release the tensioner from its compressed position, oil pressure will eventually release it, but until you build up oil pressure, you have slack in the chain. some of the shortbussers have gotten away with it, but i wouldn't chance it on my own car.

the whole process took me less than an hour.



Q: What's the difference between a bolt and a screw?
A: First, you screw. Then, you bolt.
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 10:07 PM
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hum ok.........thanks for the info man

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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golden chicken View Post
:facepalm:

the hex bolt is the tensioner. the tensioner screws into the side of the block or head. you cannot remove the tensioner out from under the valve cover.

removing the valve cover allows you to properly release the compressed tensioner. you must install the tensioner in the compressed position or you will damage the chain or guide. if you do not release the tensioner from its compressed position, oil pressure will eventually release it, but until you build up oil pressure, you have slack in the chain. some of the shortbussers have gotten away with it, but i wouldn't chance it on my own car.

the whole process took me less than an hour.
How much is involved in removing the valve cover. I don't have the money for a haynes manual at this point in time, but the mechanic is telling me i will likely need a new motor, who knows, and i sure as hell can't afford that.
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 10:49 PM
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holy shit....are u under warranty?

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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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no, but the car was really really really cheap. There are 146,000 miles on it. Even a new engine is cheaper than a whole new car.
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 07:19 AM
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VERY HIGHLY doubtful you need a new motor. get a new mechanic. one who knows what the hell a timing chain tensioner is
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 10:39 AM
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well...without having a look at it, i can't tell you if you need a new motor or not, but i'd first start with a $60 part that is a known issue, rather than tossing a whole motor at it.



Q: What's the difference between a bolt and a screw?
A: First, you screw. Then, you bolt.
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