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The Awful Clutch problem...

7K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  motorbreath 
#1 ·
searched, didnt find. Sorry if this issue has been posted elsewhere....

20,000 Miles ago I purchased a "LSJ clutch upgrade" from ZZ performance
It came with the upgraded slave/throw out bearing, stronger pressure plate and clutch disk.

Installed I noticed the clutch was very difficult to disengage, released when all the way to the floor and even then was dragging, making shifting difficult.

The pedal had a lot of play but hydraulic lines had no air, so later I purchased an Adjustable master cylinder from ZZP as well
Installed, re-bled and immediately noticed a difference.

Over time however, the clutch began to drag again and it became harder to shift.

A few weeks ago it finally quit as I shifted into reverse to back into my parking space at home.

I knew it was dying from the sounds it would make after the clutch disengages the hours prior.

Clutch pedal feels like it has full pressure, no leaks and no lost fluid seen. But will not release from the engine....
If it was the master cylider which failed, would the pedal still feel stiff? I tried pumping the pedal to build pressure to no avail....

From what I've read, these Slave Cylinders can be ruined by over-extending them. ZZP makes a 1/4 inch spacer for mounting the TOB which may Be beneficial ensuring it is not over-extension causing the failure

Ive been struggling with clutch drag since the new clutch was installed anyone else have the issue before? Stock clutch cant really hold the pressure I need it to...

Recap for clarity: NO LEAKS, NO AIR IN SYSTEM, Clutch drags then eventually stopped disengaging (slave cyl travel not adequate to fully release pressure plate?)

Drivetrain mods: Upgraded TOB/Slave, Adjustable clutch master cyl, "LSJ clutch upgrade" (features stronger than stock pressure plate)

Thanks for any info.

Will be ordering parts and re-doing the clutch in a week. Will post results if nothing comes back on here.
 
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#2 ·
How did you bleed the clutch upon install? Bench bleed, bleeder screw, or vacuum?

Did you replace or just resurface the flywheel?

I've had the issue with a clutch that will not disengage properly after a hard, high-rpm pull for a while now.

I have a new flywheel and GMPP clutch on the way right now.
 
#3 ·
Rebel,

Mine did the same thing, "I've had the issue with a clutch that will not disengage properly after a hard, high-rpm pull for a while now. "

Master cylinder was warped to hell, wouldn't fully disengage. Replaced MC + clutch upgrade kit & seems to be resolved. Cant thank my friend enough for guiding me through the process.
 
#5 ·
Clutch was bled with a mity vac. Also worth noting fluid levels in the reservoir have not changed at all indicating to me that there can't be much evidence for a leak.

I just did some reading and suspect it's the resurfaced flywheel that may have caused the slave cylinder to fail as GM states you should always replace the flywheel if it requires cutting...

Bought a new flywheel and TOB/slave..will be starting this project on my next days off... Will keep you posted.
 
#6 ·
After several weeks in the garage.... (lots of setbacks and mods performed)

The clutch had basically exploded inside the pressure plate. All the springs and stuff were in pieces....

I replaced the clutch with a southbend stage 3 making way for the ZZP stage 3 engine upgrade in the coming months.
Fidanza aluminum flywheel (wanted a OEM flywheel but they were on backorder)

New slave cylinder, I also installed the ZZP throwout bearing spacer for better clutch travel (I have an adjustable slave so I can make changes to reach if needed)
I also swapped the tranny oil for Redline mt-90

also installed poly bushings on the transmission mounts.

just bled the clutch yesterday pressure feels good and positive.

Im waiting for my FE5 control arms in the mail (busted a balljoint the other day)

New sway bar links and sway bar bushings for the front suspension

cleaned up the engine compartment and patched the wiring harness where the coverings had dry rotted and crumbled away, just to neaten the appearance and tuck away loose wires

next weekend ill be slapping new motor mounts in (old ones were dry rotted) the control arms and sway bar links and then ill be ready drive her once more.
 
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