problem

[playboy]

i'm having a problem with my psi-fi kit i know all the wiring is right i took too much time in it.... if i get on the gas hard it feels like it bogs down and has to climb back into the boost the boost gauge shows boost but the motor slows down... but if i get into it gradually it works fine i can see an improvement but not by much something is wrong for sure it feels as if it is bleeding the boost off i know it said to take the vacuum line off the selenoid and cap the selenoid but what do you do with the vacuum line??? leave it open??? i took it off completely and even tried capping the bypass valve itself and that's even worse than leaving it open.... someone please help me

[mark@psi-fi]

Originally Posted by playboy

i'm having a problem with my psi-fi kit i know all the wiring is right i took too much time in it.... if i get on the gas hard it feels like it bogs down and has to climb back into the boost the boost gauge shows boost but the motor slows down... but if i get into it gradually it works fine i can see an improvement but not by much something is wrong for sure it feels as if it is bleeding the boost off i know it said to take the vacuum line off the selenoid and cap the selenoid but what do you do with the vacuum line??? leave it open??? i took it off completely and even tried capping the bypass valve itself and that's even worse than leaving it open.... someone please help me

The line coming from the intake manifold needs to be leak free make sure its not leaking to atmosphere if it is it will cause driveability problems with the car. please take some pics of what you have done.

[playboy]

okay i'll check that so i'm assuming they both get capped off then .......... the line and the selenoid i had to take my s/c off with the problems i had so i'm wondering if i didn't put it on tight enough

[playboy]

okay it's not the s/c i sprayed around it and the motor didn't do anything so it's not leaking heres the pics

[mark@psi-fi]

Originally Posted by playboy

okay it's not the s/c i sprayed around it and the motor didn't do anything so it's not leaking heres the pics

take the cap off of the bypass valve, having a cap on there is rendering it useless. see if that helps. I would also get rid of the vacuum T and run the vacuum line from the intake manifold directly to the boost gauge line.

[Cynic]

How can you argue with customer and technical support like this?

[playboy]

okay so the boost bypass gets left open?? i did that and that is when it reads 19 psi but it bogs down on boost this is really depressing i expected to be totally amazed and i'm just totally pissed... no i'm not blaming you guys at all
okay so let me get this right..... leave the bypass valve open?
get rid of the "t" run that vacuum live straight to the gauge(that would open up the other side of the selenoid) i would assume to cap it
that would leave both sides of the selenoid sealed off correct?

[mark@psi-fi]

Originally Posted by playboy

okay so the boost bypass gets left open?? i did that and that is when it reads 19 psi but it bogs down on boost this is really depressing i expected to be totally amazed and i'm just totally pissed... no i'm not blaming you guys at all
okay so let me get this right..... leave the bypass valve open?
get rid of the "t" run that vacuum live straight to the gauge(that would open up the other side of the selenoid) i would assume to cap it
that would leave both sides of the selenoid sealed off correct?

Yes leave the bypass valves lower inlet nipple open to atmosphere plugging that up will render the valve useless. Disonnect negative battery cable to reset ecu and please recheck your wiring and make sure you have good soldered(not butt connectors) connections. The kit installed correctly should not have any of the issues you are stating.

[playboy]

okay wow i ran the vacuum line from the back of the selenoid straght to the boost guage and capped off the other side of the selenoid as well the boost bypass is open i just drove it and wow big difference.... i'm going to reset the ecu anyway because when i first cranked the car after putting the kit on there was an ecl for about thirty minutes then about the third time i cranked it it was gone.... i tried to get a code reader on it but it wouldn't work???(do you think the piggy back interferes with the obd II connector???)
thank you so much for your help
i don't care what these other guys say about you.... you're cool: j/k no one's talking bad about you
THANK YOU

[playboy]

oh and as far as the wiring i double checked it several times before i closed it all up.... i think i did a great job you can't even tell aside from the box
that's the part i was worried most about so i made sure it was right and took my time doing it