Stock Intake?

[burnintires]

still stock! Damn I suck

[Hyperion]

Why do you ask?

[Dallas]

The stock intake runs right down to the cowel. It's just as good or better than any chrome tubed cheezie looking intake. The GM performance division would have put one in if they though it was the nut. I had a 05 civic in the shop today with a short K&N inside the hood. It looked like crap and didn't suck any cold air at all. The old cowel piece was still attached to the fender well. The car was sucking hot air. what an idiot. K&N is missing the boat. give us an intake that is close to stock that can breath better that no mods are applied, you may have something. In the meantime, sell it to fartcan owners.

[Sp00ner]

Originally Posted by Dallas

The stock intake runs right down to the cowel. It's just as good or better than any chrome tubed cheezie looking intake. The GM performance division would have put one in if they though it was the nut. I had a 05 civic in the shop today with a short K&N inside the hood. It looked like crap and didn't suck any cold air at all. The old cowel piece was still attached to the fender well. The car was sucking hot air. what an idiot. K&N is missing the boat. give us an intake that is close to stock that can breath better that no mods are applied, you may have something. In the meantime, sell it to fartcan owners.

Umm... how do you mean? The K&N follows the stock airbox line into the fender well, and is slightly larger in diameter, and doesn't have an airbox in the middle to disrupt flow.

I have one on my car, wanna race? It's missing the fart can, but I betcha get a good look at the stock exhaust!

[Pierre]

Originally Posted by Sp00ner

Umm... how do you mean? The K&N follows the stock airbox line into the fender well, and is slightly larger in diameter, and doesn't have an airbox in the middle to disrupt flow.

I have one on my car, wanna race? It's missing the fart can, but I betcha get a good look at the stock exhaust!

I have to disagree on one point. The box in the middle along with the air filter inside of it straightens out the airflow allowing the MAF sensor to read more accurately.

Pierre

[Sp00ner]

Originally Posted by Pierre

I have to disagree on one point. The box in the middle along with the air filter inside of it straightens out the airflow allowing the MAF sensor to read more accurately.

Pierre

Valid point.

[Aeain]

Dallas is ignorant about the Red Lines K&N Intake.

[nduchene]

Still stock here...gonna build up the performance from the inside out I think. Start with intense stage kit, then i/h/e, then custom tune.

[Dallas]

I still think it's junk unless you mod the engine. Until I'm proven wrong, I'll think the same. The PCM moderates the cars airflow. It measures ram air and the rest of the engine functions. If you don't mod the engine and exhaust and reprogram the PCM, it will calculate at the same range. Nothing happens but it sounds cool. Every car and truck companies have engineers that are proplexed over the ram air system. Ever look under the hood of a Yukon? It has weard extra lenghts on the induction system. It stores air as a reserve without giving the car too much air. The old hotrod deal. In has gotta put the same as out. Today, the PCM is going to hold to the original programing. Octane above 91, exhaust, intake doesn't mean anything unless you reprogram the PCM. To sum this up. You could put a shaker hood scoop on the car and run a tube to it and it won't change anything without a stage kit. With that, you change everything and makes more sense. I wouldn't waste my money on intake or exhast until you have a stage I or II kit installed. Just wasting money. I would invest in the torque bars and other devices to save your mounts.

[WE0H]

Well I better chime in now...I see a valid point in keeping the airflow clean meaning zero turbulance, as we have the hot wire MAF which needs a steady stream of clean flowing air to make calculations properly. I am positive a aftermarket or homebrew inlet tube/filter/airbox could be bought or fabricated to keep the airflow clean (near zero turbulance) and provide some benefit of increased airflow capacity. If someone could measure pressure's before the factory airbox and after it to see the restriction, there will be some sort of restriction, then do the same with an aftermarket or homebrew inlet/filter with or without an airbox. This would tell right away what flows better and what is a worthless. Personally I would prefer a smooth (on the inside) inlet tube with a airbox designed to allow incoming air into the filter to be clean (low turbulance) while drawing this inlet air from outside of the engine compartment. The tube preceding the MAF should be sufficiently long enough to provide said sensor with that clean flowing air for accurate measurements and less of a headache for the software to deal with. Since I just bought my RL, I haven't had the luxury of taking the air filter out to see what the factory airbox design look like inside. Previous experience on other cars have proven to myself that using airflow straightening techniques on the airbox can be an improvement in performance. This usually involves taking a factory airbox for example, and filling in certain areas with epoxy and using a die grinder/burr to pursuade the air to flow a certain way through the box into the filter and exiting the filter. To get real technical with it, a guy could build a clear airbox with clear inlet/outlet tubing and run it on a flowbench while introducing colored smoke into the air stream while observing how the smoke flows through the design later making adjustments to the design to make the smoke flow with less or near zero turbulance while tweaking the design for the achieved airflow volume required for the design. Whew!!! Complicated huh? Yes it is, but that could possibly develop into one heck of a nice flowing airbox/filter/inlet tube combo worth some bucks or eat up a lot of time you could have been watching TV

Mike