Signs of a bad computer. - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Signs of a bad computer.

Well with my car messed up and not wanting to start. Im just trying to get the following things out of the way to narrow down why this bitch won't start.

What are some of the symptoms that the computer is bad? Some of the things that has me worried is when i try to start the car and I let off the key she will still crank like two more time before actually starting. Another thing is the rpm and speedo needle will drop way below the bottom of the gauge. And last but not least I have a damn CEL but when I put my code reader is shows no codes and that I pass. Is she fried? And where can I get one cheap?


2007 Cobalt SS/SC -Fujita CAI, Ingalls "Stiffy" Damper, Progress Spings, Black Headlights(painted), 12000k HID Lights, Debadged Trunk,Tinted Tails
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 08:14 AM
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I believe the start issue is a non-issue. All these ignitions will continue the crank cycle after letting off the key. Can't remember what it's called, but it's normal. The rest sounds like the BCM, not the ECM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 10:02 AM
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Some of the things that has me worried is when i try to start the car and I let off the key she will still crank like two more time before actually starting.
GM vehicles have had this feature for quite a few years now. You simply have to bump the starter, and the car does the rest.
As to why it starts hard is another issue.

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Another thing is the rpm and speedo needle will drop way below the bottom of the gauge.
When turned off, I assume?
This is also normal... in a Cobalt at least.
Mine has done that since day one.

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And last but not least I have a damn CEL but when I put my code reader is shows no codes and that I pass. Is she fried? And where can I get one cheap?
Is your reader a cheap-o reader?
Many cheap OBD readers will not read manufacture specific codes.... which is probably what your CEL is.


Now, I should explain some things about fried PCM's.
Many people jump on the PCM as being the root cause of engine problems... this rarely the case. 99% of the time, it's a sensor, connection, or corrupt file (yeah... it happens).
Unless you used HPT and did something dumb... or physically abused the PCM (via force, or ESD), it's not broken.

Tyler
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 06:45 PM
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I'm curious, not from the rl, but from my son's cougar. Is there anywhere or anyway of actually testing a computer. Because of an engine change and computer change we took his car in to have the computer programed to the key. They could not communicate with the computer so they think it is in the wiring. It is a brand new harness. Before I do a lot of chasing of wires, I would love to know if the computer is actually good. The computer that was hooked up and came out of the car the engine came out of was up on top of the engine when we got the car. (We were told the only thing it needed was programed to start, well aparently not.) Anyways, when we picked it up to install it where it belongs under the dash, a lot of water came running out of the case. To me that's not a good sign. I'd just like to be able to know one way or the other.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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GM vehicles have had this feature for quite a few years now. You simply have to bump the starter, and the car does the rest.
As to why it starts hard is another issue.



When turned off, I assume?
This is also normal... in a Cobalt at least.
Mine has done that since day one.



Is your reader a cheap-o reader?
Many cheap OBD readers will not read manufacture specific codes.... which is probably what your CEL is.
No only thing I did was suck up water...Which i've cleaned out completely. I rented like a 200 dollar code checker which i've used multiple times to read my cel. Only thing right now i see wrong is it wont' get a spark. I've checked the spark plugs and replaced them and they are good and the coilpacks aren't getting spark either so I was thinking crank position sensor.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 08:07 PM
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You and I got somewhat the same issue and im still working on fixing mine....

Mine cranks over after fuel is added... im thinking mines a fuel filter problem or the stater isn't connection... i'll be finding out soon as it's annoying... Go out and she'll fire up, then die then it's a fight to get it going and keep it going...

I'v had to sit there for 10 minutes give it alittle gas to get it to finally catch... Oh the mysteries..

I thought it was just due to the cold - 30 so i plugged it in.. same issue...

Im starting to lean towards a bad fuel filter / spark.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-06-2010, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Better luck than me I suppose. mine wont' even start. It will turn over but doesn't start.


2007 Cobalt SS/SC -Fujita CAI, Ingalls "Stiffy" Damper, Progress Spings, Black Headlights(painted), 12000k HID Lights, Debadged Trunk,Tinted Tails
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-07-2010, 08:07 AM
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No only thing I did was suck up water...
That could have damaged any number of sensors, or mechanical components.

About the CEL... try getting a hold of a tech2... I guarantee it will be able to read the code.

Tyler
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-07-2010, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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I only have two problems with that...I don't have a grand to put towards a reader and my car is stationary so I can't get it to the dealership lol


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2010, 07:24 AM
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I only have two problems with that...I don't have a grand to put towards a reader and my car is stationary so I can't get it to the dealership lol
You'll either need a tow truck, or befriend a tech.

Tyler
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