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Old 04-15-2006, 01:32 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I've been getting some PMs and emails here for info a similar mod for the Cobalt SS. I did create one last season, but again it's not tested as in both cases we used "jumpered" relays instead (and added the fused jumper wire in the fuse block)
But here's how to add ____________ to the Cobalt (plus a ___________ is neccessary) in order to run the cooling fans and CAC pump from a single switch (or individual switches) This will NOT set any DTCs
HTH
Wop

INTERESTED COBALT SS RACER'S CAN PM OR EMAIL ME FOR THE SCHEMATICS AND INSTRUCTIONS

Last edited by WopOnTour; 05-10-2006 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 05-01-2006, 09:47 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WopOnTour
I've been getting some PMs and emails here for info a similar mod for the Cobalt SS. I did create one last season, but again it's not tested as in both cases we used "jumpered" relays instead (and added the jumper wire)
But here's how to add 3 relays to a Cobalt (plus a small jumper wire in the fuseblock) to run the cooling fans and CAC pump from a single switch (or individual switches) This will not set DTCs but will kill your battery in about 20 minutes so use accordingly.
HTH
Wop
i did this this weekend i hooked tohe pump to a seperate switch and the fans to another. works great well worth it. however i do have one question. i am sure i missed something or didn't get something right but in the diagram for the fans you say to remove the one relay and jumper the 30 and 87 correct? i did this and the fans instantly turmn on and the switch does not work. so i did not do that and everything worked fine. then when i am in the staging lanes and i hit the switch to turn the fans on it will blow the fuse and cause the fans to go into low speed. i know it is hard to say without seeing how i wired it but does this sound right? when the car is off they work great but once the car is on it will blow the fuse. any suggestions?
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Old 05-01-2006, 12:31 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlebigss
i did this this weekend i hooked tohe pump to a seperate switch and the fans to another. works great well worth it. however i do have one question. i am sure i missed something or didn't get something right but in the diagram for the fans you say to remove the one relay and jumper the 30 and 87 correct? i did this and the fans instantly turmn on and the switch does not work. so i did not do that and everything worked fine. then when i am in the staging lanes and i hit the switch to turn the fans on it will blow the fuse and cause the fans to go into low speed. i know it is hard to say without seeing how i wired it but does this sound right? when the car is off they work great but once the car is on it will blow the fuse. any suggestions?
The only thing I can see is you might have it wired incorrectly. Did you follow my instructions EXACTLY??? If you DO I guarantee it will work 100% as described- otherwise all bets are off.
Good luck! AND TAKE SOME PICS!!
Wop

Last edited by WopOnTour; 06-19-2006 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 05-01-2006, 12:53 PM   #34 (permalink)
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nope i didn't get that. i went straight across like i thought the first pic up at the top said hmmm that might be the problem. i will check tonight when i get home.
so i should be able to run the fans at any time correct? weither the car is on or off?
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Old 05-01-2006, 12:57 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlebigss
nope i didn't get that. i went straight across like i thought the first pic up at the top said hmmm that might be the problem. i will check tonight when i get home.
so i should be able to run the fans at any time correct? weither the car is on or off?
OOHHH NO The GM wiring schematics NEVER show the relay pin orientations. You would need to look at the small schematic printed on the relay and callouts printed on the underside of the relay to do that.
Sorry! (should have explained that better)

Yes, If the switch is OFF the fans will operate normally (PCM controlled) Then you can override that at ANY time with the switch. When you shut the car OFF with the switch ON- the fans and pump will continue to run until it kills your battery . If you wired the 2 fans to seperate switches, you could reduce battery load by just running 1 fan I guess- but it would take longer to get your temps down.

Wop

EDIT> Latest version of fan mod and CAC mod to turn ON fans and CAC pump with a switch- as well as a "typical" battery shutoff/isolate switch like you would find at an RV or marine supply
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cobalt Fan Mod_sm.JPG (220.0 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg 70446L.jpg (40.3 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Cobalt CAC Modsm.JPG (206.9 KB, 34 views)

Last edited by WopOnTour; 06-19-2006 at 01:37 AM.
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:04 PM   #36 (permalink)
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yes it is a lot easier to due from the cockpit then having to get out all the time. i will give this a shot tonight and let you know in the next day or two. thanks again for the help.
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Old 05-01-2006, 05:25 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Great, Let me know how it works for you
AND Please dont post these schematics in those "other" forums just yet
I probably would have already uploaded them over there had they not put such a rediculous limit on uploading- I requested they increase my upload limit to no response so their loss.
It's OK to link them over here to this thread though
Wop


PS> I've removed the complete mod schematics from this thread (and left only the basic jumpering instructions)- If you need/want them PM me- Wop

Below is the jumpering for the Cobalt SS fuseblock
MAKE SURE you either use 10A fused jumpers or make them from 20awg fusible link wire as I have done in the pic
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ECOTEC 010s.JPG (50.4 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg COBALT_UHJB_FANMOD_3.JPG (82.1 KB, 29 views)

Last edited by WopOnTour; 06-19-2006 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 05-01-2006, 05:33 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by WopOnTour
Great, Let me know how it works for you
AND Please dont post these schematics in those "other" forums
(I probably would have already uploaded them over there had they not put such a rediculous limit on uploading)
It's OK to link them over here to this thread though
Wop
oh don't worry about that if they want to do it they will have to search like i did. and again thank you very much
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:34 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Diagrams for jumpering at the fuse block for the ION
The fuses are for the headlamps and are optional (great though if you're using HPT a lot as the Daytime Running Lights are a major additional drain on the battery when the IGN is ON)

Plus, below is another a pic showing the installtion of the "knife" or battery isolate switch at the battery and the booster pack connections. This allows you to keep the fans and CAC pump ON with the IGN OFF to cool your temps quickly. Spraying down your S/C housing with a "mist" bottle before hand will help as well.In 10-15 minutes you'll be able to put your hands on the S/C

When you come into the pits make sure the jumpers are in place and the pump fans are running
1. Cpen the trunk and connect the booster pack
2. Open the knife switch
PUSH the car as MUCH as possible in the staging lanes
When it's time to fire up and head out for a run
1. Close the knife switch FIRST
2. Remove the booster pack
*and get it recharging if you have a source of 120VAC

Rinse and repeat
HTH
Wop
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ECOTEC 015s.JPG (42.6 KB, 32 views)

Last edited by WopOnTour; 06-19-2006 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 06-19-2006, 10:39 AM   #40 (permalink)
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ahhhhh....that's what I was looking for!


do the relays have to be jumpered?
or can the relays be removed and the jumpers left in place while at the track?

would a 700A booster pack be adequate?

thanks
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