How To: Sub/Stereo/Amp Install with Factory Radio *non-AAS*
Alright....well I made just a little bit of progress today on my sub install while using the factory radio with my non-AAS system in my '07
First off.....flip down the rear seats and pull the plastic push pins out that hold the back shelf down. A "panel/trim puller" (like from Crutchfield) really comes in handy for taking those out.
Next you gotta take off the side covers. There is a little plastic cover.....pop that off & then there is a 7mm bolt under that. Then pull the panel off (there are 2 clips that hold it in the body) & then there are some tabs that snap to the lower rear panel as well.....make sure you unclip those.
Then I went the extra step & took out the lower rear panels as well to get everything out of the way.
Then I was able to clip the rear shelf forward (was too lazy to unbolt the seatbelts & get the cover completely out of the way) & have full access to the rear speaker shelf.
Okay now you gotta tap in the rear speakers for a signal. You're gonna need a Line Output Converter (RCA converter)....I had this one laying around already, but they're $20 at Best Buy.
I used some 3m line taps (I know some people don't like them, but they've ALWAYS worked great for me) and attached them to the stock speaker wire & then used some extra speaker wire I had laying around to attach them to the RCA converter.
Below are the color codes for the non-Advanced Audio System:
Right Rear Negative -- Light Blue
Right Rear Positive -- Dark Blue
Left Rear Negative -- Yellow
Left Rear Positive -- Brown
So connect those to the corresponding wires of the RCA converter. I ziptied all the wires cleanly too....which is a good idea. (This is before I put it in the hole where I mounted it)
There was a little hole in the back shelf already where I ran all my wires too & decided to hide the RCA converter in. There are already some factory holes there which I used to put zip ties thru to hold it down.
IMPORTANT...I put a piece of foam underneath the converter to stop contact/vibration which the sheet metal....so it's a good idea.
Then run the RCA cables to the amp.
Next.....gotta run the remote turn on wire for the amp. That can be found in the passenger side kick panel. Take off the trim (pull straight up), & then peel back the foam & you'll see a green harness.
The pink wire is what you wanna tap into.
Again I used a 3m Line Tap & then ran the wire under the trim/carpet to the back of the trunk, and then connect it to the amp. The BLUE wire in the picture is the Remote wire.
Hopefully get the power/ground wires ran tomorrow & the sub(s) in!
Got everything else hooked up today.....
What I'm using.....
2 JL Audio 10W1v2's
Rockford Fosgate 351M amp
I had 1 JL Audio 10W1v2 already & the amp. So I just decided to buy one more JL sub ($80) & then the box from Circuit City ($60) to keep my system on a small budget.
I have the 2 4ohm (single coil) subs wired together to create a 2ohm load at the amp......wired all the positives (of the speaker) together & the negatives together.
First thing to do was buy a battery post extender (for a GM battery/side mount post) to attach the power cable to the battery....that was $7. Hook that up to the battery:
Run the power wire to wherever your amp location is. I planned on running the ground to the battery's ground location, but instead I ended up using the seat bolt location on the floor. Really simple & was right by my amp (you're supposed to keep your ground wire short):
Made the ground & power connections to the amp. Then hooked up the RCA cables (which I already converted & ran yesterday) & then plugged in the remote wire to the amp.
EDIT: Newer setup:
Put the key in the ignition & it fired right up! I still gotta "fine tune" the adjustment on the amp as to how loud I want it, because that changes as you're driving & you get road noise.....so I gotta do that tomorrow & put on the end cap of the amp & still put all the trim pieces back together!
NOTE: I also kept my wires a little longer so that in case I need more trunk space or need to move the box I can slide it out of the way. Because if you have the cables too short (but have a nice, clean look)......than you kind of can't move it.
Any questions...let me know!
thanks for the info,i am presently trying to do the same have it all done except for the power lead and was wondering where to hook it into,,now i know,,
Cleaned up all the wires & the install is done!
BUT I'm gonna be changing the setup already.....just ordered something new a 1/2 hour ago.....should have it by the end of the week.....stay tuned!!!
4 New 6 1/2"s and a 10" free air is actually on my list of things to do.
I'm looking at Inifinty Kappa 6 1/2s and the Infinity Perfect 10 with the Infinity 6 channel amp. I'll probably drop a line output converter behind the factory head unit, then RCA to the trunk, run all new speaker wire to the back panel and doors and then stealth in a box on both side of the trunk, 1 for the 10 and the other to hide the amp. The Perfect 10 is a Free Air/Sealed box sub, in a sealed box it only takes .3 to .8 cubic feet so should definitely have the room. Project will probably run about $800 for all materials including the speakers and hardware.
Like i said it's on my list of things to do, just need to figure out if it's before or after stage2.
Why would you run your RCA's from behind the radio though??
Didn't you see my pics of the wiring? You can do everything in the trunk (except the remote wire--which is in the passenger kickpanel)
Also....my JL 10W1v2 subs only need .625 sealed for each sub.....of course the box I had (I just got a new one) is gonna be a little bit bigger which won't hurt.
If you wanted to hop up their newer, bigger sub the 10W3v3....it still only needs .625 and that's a sweeeeeeet sub!
I had 2 Infinity Perfects before & they were probably the worst subs I've ever had....well actually MTX was worse, but they didn't have any bass to them......but it's your car
I posted this in another thread.....I don't know if you're already good with fiberglass, but here's a good how to for a box for the corner of your trunk:
yeah i was checking that fiberglass site out and i wasn't 100% sure how i was gonna do the boxes but i know for sure now. I've done quite a bit of wood working so i think i should be able to hand le the glass.
as for the speakers, i'm not looking to rattle my trunk or anyone elses for that matter. I'm just looking for some good quality sound which i'm sure we can all agree these RL's do not come with. Hence the reason i'm basically wiring everything form the head unit back. I actually quite like the factory head unit, so i'll get a 4 channel line output converter which will still allow full functional fading and balance and since i am going 4 channels, it'll be easier to run two pairs of RCA to the rear then 4 pairs of speaker wire. Less mess, cleaner look.
After reading that fiber page, this might actually end up in front of the stage 2.
Check it out here:
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