Oil Change (With Pictures) - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
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Oil Change (With Pictures) Oil Change (With Pictures)
AdamJH225
11-09-2007

What you will need:

1 1/4" socket (1/2" drive)
6-10" socket extension (at least 6", but a 10" makes it a LOT easier)
15mm socket
10mm socket
Oil pan
Ramps or Jack Stands
6-7 quarts Mobil 1 Full-Synthetic 5W-30 oil (or your preferred brand)
Oil Filter is Your Choice. Here are the various part numbers: FRAM CH9018, K&N HP7000, Purolator L15436, AC-Delco 457G (filter only) or 458G (includes replacement cap and cap seal).

1. Raise the front of the car enough to get underneath it. Ramps are easiest, jack stands will give you the most clearance if you're a bigger guy (or gal).



2. Crawl underneath and locate the oil drain plug. It's centered on the oil pan. Fit a 15mm socket and ratchet on. BEFORE you loosen the drain plug, make sure your oil pan is positioned under the drain. You're going to want the pan positioned toward the rear of the car, as the oil will shoot out pretty far when the plug is first removed.



3. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain into the pan (this will take a while). Clean the drain plug off with a towel and inspect for little shards of metal. Drain plugs are magnetic, so little metal shavings indicate your engine may be shredding itself internally. A clean drain plug means a clean engine.



4. While the oil is draining, position a 10mm socket on the two bolts holding the intercooler to the supercharger. Remove the bracket from the supercharger, and move the intercooler down to the right and out of the way. [EDIT: Some people don't find this step necessary, but it makes things a lot easier if you have big hands. It helps to get the thing out of the way, in my opinion]



5. Disconnect the electrical connection running from the supercharger, and pull the wires up and out of the way. [EDIT: This is optional; some do it without removing the wires, but should you find them in the way, here's what you're looking for to remove them. The last few changes I've done, I haven't disconnected these. They're not really in the way, and they are a bitch to put back on]



6. Grab your 1 1/4" socket and maneuver it under the supercharger and onto the oil filter cap.



7. Drop your ratchet extension down from above and seat it into your socket. Attach your ratchet handle and begin unscrewing the oil filter cap. I usually just loosen the cap, then finish removing it by hand.



8. Once that's all unscrewed, maneuver the cap (the filter will come with it) out of the filter well and underneath the supercharger until it's totally out. Yank on the filter and it'll come loose from the cap. Dispose of filter (I keep a Ziplok bag handy and take it with me to dispose along with my used oil). Clean the cap off (there WILL be oil all over it).



9. Grab your new filter.



10. Manuever the new filter (pointy end down) into the filter well. Once the filter is in place, replace the filter cap and ratchet it down tight (but not TOO tight).



11. By this time your oil should be completely drained. Make sure you've cleaned off the drain plug, and replace it in the pan. Ratchet it down tight. Replace the coolant filler neck and electrical connections that you removed earlier.

12. Once you've replaced the drain plug, add 6 1/2-7 quarts of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 (or your preferred brand of oil).



13. Button everything up. Make sure you've removed the oil pan from under the car, reattached everything, and closed the oil fill cap. Drop the car down from the ramps/stands and start her up. Let it run for a minute, then shut it down, allow the oil to settle back into the pan, and then check your dipstick. Mine is all good on 6.5 qts. of oil. Add more as needed, a half-quart at a time.

14. Once your dipstick is showing the proper oil level, push your trip-odometer button until "OIL LIFE" appears. Once "OIL LIFE" is on your screen, hold the trip odometer button until it dings and says "RESET."

15. Drive 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first, and repeat steps 1-15.
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  #1 (permalink)  
Shabodah on 11-09-2007, 12:56 PM
It can be done without moving the wires out of the way, lol.

PS- Shab doesn't recommend using the Fram filter....
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  #2 (permalink)  
AdamJH225 on 11-09-2007, 01:03 PM
I've heard some people bash the Fram filter as well. What's your recommendation?
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  #3 (permalink)  
billabong9687 on 11-09-2007, 03:50 PM
ac delco all the way for me. I never buy fram unless I have to. And when I can get an ac delco I swap them.
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  #4 (permalink)  
hawlyns711 on 11-09-2007, 09:57 PM
does the oil life monitor work? i reset it the first time i changed my oil (15k ago) and haven't since, and it has not gone off
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  #5 (permalink)  
Big Knight on 11-10-2007, 07:43 PM
Nice pictures. I bought Wix filters. I can just reach the plug from side/front near the tire without putting the car on ramps.
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  #6 (permalink)  
MachIIIRayzor on 11-11-2007, 10:29 PM
So if I don't feel comfortable doing my own oil changes yet could someone make a "How to" for checking engine oil level (with pictures).
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  #7 (permalink)  
Mattman6 on 11-12-2007, 12:39 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by billabong9687
ac delco all the way for me. I never buy fram unless I have to. And when I can get an ac delco I swap them.
whats your reasoning? they are both paper correct, so why does it matter?
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  #8 (permalink)  
snobrdrdan on 11-12-2007, 12:48 AM
EXCELLENT write up!!!!

Yeah I too, personally, stick with the AC Delco filter (part number PF457G)....they're only like $6 from the dealer anyways
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  #9 (permalink)  
Mattman6 on 11-12-2007, 12:53 AM
3k oil changes is a waste IMO, you can get a lot more out of the Mobil 1 than 3k. My oil meter didnt go off til 8k, but I usually only go about 5k.
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