car wont start unless push started - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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car wont start unless push started

alright guys heres the situation:

I went to the drive-in on thurssday, knowing my battery was on its way out i thought i could start it b4 it totally died. well i didnt make it. car wouldnt start. only 25 or so mins b4 the battery completely died.

anyways we jumped it and i havent been able to keep a charge in the battery, and so ive been jump starting it.

I went on friday to get a new battery ... tha nks gm for the trunk mounted fully ventialted battery, costs and arm and a leg.

anyways i popped it in, got it started up let it run for a good hour+ (had to goto the other side of town to pick up the girly). all seemed well i was able to start it no problem on the first crank like the first 10 times restarting it over a couple days.

now that brings us to today. car would not start, had problems even push starting it. and i got 4 cels

P0606 Control Module Internal Performance ECM
P0607 Control Module Performance ECM

P1680 Control Module Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) System Performance ECM
P1681 Control Module Throttle Position (TP) System Performance ECM


now, im going to go out and check all my grounds and everything to make sure thats not the problem.

I have cleared these codes, and the car seems fine. but it seems like the battery does not keep a charge or the clutch sensor is done b/c it wont start sometimes. like it has bad and good days... thats y i think its not totally fubar'ed

anyways, and input as to what else to check b4 i get a tps?

2004 Electric Blue Redline.
Mods:
GMPP catback w/ Vibrant Tip, B&M Shifter, K&N CAI, Dual Interceptors, AEM UEGO wideband. powerslot rotors/hawk pads, CopperTop's Tower brace, ZZP s3 H/E, Powergrid Endlinks, bad mab shorty, zzp 3inch dp, projector retrofit, prs hardcore rear bar, fe5 struts/shocks, pedders 20% tint.

Soon to come:
... fe5 struts/shocks (ordered), pedders (ordered), and some PRS goodies
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 09:09 AM
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Replace your alternator. Its not properly recharging the battery while driving.

Set your Interceptor to read battery voltage. It should read around 13.8-13.9v if the alternator is working properly.




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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnbracing View Post
broken shit Is par for mcclure
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 09:26 AM
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also you can adjust your clutch depress pedal sensor, just get under there and look at it. while it does sound like you need an alternator, test it like gm said above the voltage on the battery should increase with RPMs, appx 14.5-14.7 @3500rpm if you're not seeing above 13 then that is your problem.

otherwise you could have a short to ground somewhere where your battery is slowly getting discharged, well at least faster than it is getting charged by the alternator. in order to test this it's a long process because it could be leaking where there is any power source. when your car is off with the battery attached, what is the voltage at the terminals? now do the same test on your battery but with both (-) and (+) leads off and not touching anything. same voltage? or more?

Forum favorites: When darkmanX beat me in a roll, the cover page red Redline is right-hand drive, the GMPONE crew and all the other members I met, the few twincharged RL's out there, and of course my original purchases from Ron9919 which gave me my first mod bug.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 09:29 AM
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Do like me and just put a red top in it.

2012 Nissan Frontier SL
Heated Leather sure is nice.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 01:15 PM
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I don't think the red top will work for long if the alternator is not working...

Driving a 2006 Chile Pepper Red Redline with Comp Package and Stage 2, 110K miles.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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lol i checked my alternator alrdy, my interceptor reads that it is working 13.6-14.0

i knew the battery was dying so i just replaced it anyways.

so i can rule out the alternator and the battery.

ignition switch maybe?

2004 Electric Blue Redline.
Mods:
GMPP catback w/ Vibrant Tip, B&M Shifter, K&N CAI, Dual Interceptors, AEM UEGO wideband. powerslot rotors/hawk pads, CopperTop's Tower brace, ZZP s3 H/E, Powergrid Endlinks, bad mab shorty, zzp 3inch dp, projector retrofit, prs hardcore rear bar, fe5 struts/shocks, pedders 20% tint.

Soon to come:
... fe5 struts/shocks (ordered), pedders (ordered), and some PRS goodies
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Train04RL View Post
lol i checked my alternator alrdy, my interceptor reads that it is working 13.6-14.0

i knew the battery was dying so i just replaced it anyways.

so i can rule out the alternator and the battery.

ignition switch maybe?
Idk about being able to rule out the battery and alternator. If your battery was getting a good charge it would not go dead after X amounts of drives.

If you had a drain on your battery it would go dead after X amount of hours or days.

What do you have for aftermarket parts tied into your electrical system? IE, wideband, aftermarket stereo or gauges?




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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnbracing View Post
broken shit Is par for mcclure
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 02:13 PM
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you should probably try what I suggested in the last few sentences of post #3, alternator sounds fine but we won't know for sure until...

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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im going to need a volt meter for that which i dont have. but will get.

electrics i have 2 interceptors, both just in the obd2 and a aem wb wired to the rear 12v. this 12v turns off with the cars electrics, unlike the front.

I also have interior led's. but they have been in for over 3 years, and the problem is just recent, and they are hooked to a switch, aswell as the rear 12v.

2004 Electric Blue Redline.
Mods:
GMPP catback w/ Vibrant Tip, B&M Shifter, K&N CAI, Dual Interceptors, AEM UEGO wideband. powerslot rotors/hawk pads, CopperTop's Tower brace, ZZP s3 H/E, Powergrid Endlinks, bad mab shorty, zzp 3inch dp, projector retrofit, prs hardcore rear bar, fe5 struts/shocks, pedders 20% tint.

Soon to come:
... fe5 struts/shocks (ordered), pedders (ordered), and some PRS goodies
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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and also the alt is fine b/c i can get the car running and take off the positive battery post and it still runs. ive heard that is also a way of checking it. b/c the engine needs power frorm somewhere so disconnect the battery and if it dies ur alt is probably dead.

2004 Electric Blue Redline.
Mods:
GMPP catback w/ Vibrant Tip, B&M Shifter, K&N CAI, Dual Interceptors, AEM UEGO wideband. powerslot rotors/hawk pads, CopperTop's Tower brace, ZZP s3 H/E, Powergrid Endlinks, bad mab shorty, zzp 3inch dp, projector retrofit, prs hardcore rear bar, fe5 struts/shocks, pedders 20% tint.

Soon to come:
... fe5 struts/shocks (ordered), pedders (ordered), and some PRS goodies
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