Cobalt SS FE5 Control Arms - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Review Tools Display Modes
Cobalt SS FE5 Control Arms Cobalt SS FE5 Control Arms
Buy now, wait later!!
Skythe
04-13-2008
Author Review
Cosmetic Benefit
1
Audible Benefit
3
Power Increase
3
Installation Difficulty
4
Product Quality
9
Overall Rating
8
47%

A few of you may be wondering what in particular is there to gain from swapping the redline FE3 control arms to the cobalt ss FE5 components. I too wondered. It had been mentioned in a couple of threads. I feel, that those threads lacked significant detail as far as delivering enough information to the reader what they'd benefit from the swap.

Side note: The differences in the classifcation of the FE5/3/2 control arms are the bushings. AND no you just can't order bushings seperately. It makes no bloody sense why you can't order fucking busings. They make you replace the whole entire fucking part. Yes, I've talked to Saturn, and was told that the bearings are supposed to last the life of the car. BULL FUCKING SHIT. This is the third fucking arm that I've fucked up, due to driving mishaps. FUcking phantom potholes, or bullshit being in the road when it ain't supposed to be. This is why I did the swap, because I didn't want to buy another lousy stock arm, only to have it go bad on me due to it's lack of durability. Even though my bushing on the left side was damaged, my alignment was still good. Normally when you really fuck up a arm your alignment will go in and out, and you'll screw up a tire real quick.

I purchased mine through crateenginedepot.com. Total price for both arms with shipping was about $315. Shipping was $43. There was a problem with getting the left-side control arm. GM is doing something that seems rather weird. The right-side arm was no problem ordering, but the left-side's inventory part-number has been "upgraded" to reflect a part used by the 08 cobalts. So...while a 05-07 SS VIN can be used to help me get one control arm, the other one required a bit more finagling. Big thanks to Dave from CrateEngineDepot for being diligent about this and getting me my much needed product. Supply is also an issue. So, if you are interested in doing this act fast!!!

Other members have noted how much lighter the arms should be due to the composition of the alloy used. I will confirm this by saying, when I picked up the box I thought that something was wrong with the shipment. When I picked up the box I thought "maybe they sent one arm in this box and I'll have to wait for the other...boy that's dumb." Yolk's on my face, both arms were neatly wrapped in the box. The box couldn't have weighed more than 30lbs. I couldn't believe it. The stock arms are heavy enough to require two-hands for safe lifting. But by all means, I didn't feel like I was going to break them. I gave'm a good ol'earthquake safety test and put some stress on them. And I felt confident about them going on the car.

I had a local shop put the parts on. They charged me 2 hours of labor, although it probably took them an hour and half...but whatever. There were no installation issues.

For those wondering about traction bars...These bars are not compatible at all. I will also say. Due to the composition and the quality of the bearings, TRACTION BARS ARE NOT NECESSARY! The front end is so much more stable. I've always had disdain for this car because it feels wobbly and unstable at times (if you've ever driven a corvette, rx8, s2000, or M3) then you know what I mean. A good portion of the chassis flex from lateral movements is minimized. The car more stable at highway speeds, when driving over changes in terrain, and changes in elevation. I can feel more downforce in the nose of the car. Not only that, the arms minimize much of the front-to-rear weight shift under heavy acceleration. This is applicable from dead stops and power downshifts from high gear. All in all, the car is more planted on the road and that gives me more confidence in driving it. By increasing the limits in the handling capabilities of your ride, you also increase driver safety.

For those of you that are still reading. We will now start the question and answer session.
User reviews
There are no user ratings
I want to rate it!

Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #1 (permalink)  
boosthard05 on 04-13-2008, 08:47 PM
Why do you say that the traction bars aren't neeed?

do the cobalt controll arms reduce/eliminate wheel hop?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2 (permalink)  
Skythe on 04-13-2008, 09:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by boosthard05
Why do you say that the traction bars aren't neeed?

do the cobalt controll arms reduce/eliminate wheel hop?
Yessir!! That's what I'm saying. If you look at how the traction bars hook up to the car...they connect to a part of the frame and the stock control arm. This way, they reduce chassis flex by keeping the car affixed to itself.

Some have used polyurethane bushings with the Redline's stock arms and have reduced wheel-hop. The bushings in the SS arms are more conducive driving enthusiast. I'm not sure if they are more resilient, but they do stiffen things up a bit.

Compared to doing traction bars, I think the SS arms are a better option. There is a lot more gained. It's like the Redline is diseased with wheel-hop. Traction bars are sort of a bandaid fix. The FE5 arms are more akin to treating the cause of the illness.

My assessment is that the FE5 arms reduce wheel hop by a large degree.

Last edited by Skythe; 04-13-2008 at 09:23 PM..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #3 (permalink)  
FunkyStickman on 04-13-2008, 09:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skythe
Compared to doing traction bars, I think the SS arms are a better option. There is a lot more gained. It's like the Redline is diseased with wheel-hop. Traction bars are sort of a bandaid fix. The FE5 arms are more akin to treating the cause of the illness.

My assessment is that the FE5 arms reduce wheel hop by a large degree.
Well, considering the BWoody bars only limit wheel travel front-to-rear, it stands to reason most of the wheelhop is from the lower control arm flexing back and forth. Upgrading to the stiffer aluminum almost eliminates this flexing, which should eliminate wheelhop.

I think the problem is most people think "wheel hop" and imagine the wheel bouncing up and down like a yo-yo, but it's actually being pulled forward by force, and when it gets far enough forward the tire loses traction... and snaps back again.

Definitely a good discussion. Tightening up the front end is better all-around, not just on hard launches.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
dont_blink on 04-14-2008, 12:25 AM
Umm....I've modified plenty of Cobalts and Ions. The Cobalts wheel hop just as bad as the Redlines....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
qwikredline11 on 04-14-2008, 08:05 AM
copy that I have cobalt FLCA on my car no difference other than stronger, and castor is different; rotating motor stops wheel hop IMHO we will see
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Shabodah on 04-14-2008, 11:11 AM
Just to pop in a give some notes from somebody else who has messed with control arms a bit.

There are two FE5 control arm sets:
'05-'07 SS/SC
'08 SS/TC

The '08 control arms are more revised and are part of GM's solution to reduce wheel hop.

The '05-'07 control arms are still better than the Redline's FE3's, being made of much lighter and stiffer aluminum, but wheel hop is still an issue with them.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
SilverRedLine04 on 04-14-2008, 12:00 PM
hummm

im courious to see these 08 ones... they may bolt on the RL... i hope!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Shabodah on 04-14-2008, 12:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRedLine04
hummm

im courious to see these 08 ones... they may bolt on the RL... i hope!!!
Well, here's the thing there:

The '08 SS/TC has difference control arms, steering knuckles, struts, springs, sway bar, brakes, brake lines, etc.

So, while it may be possible to use some of the components separately (I'm guessing that only the steering knuckles and brakes will have compatability issues), the suspension might not be tuned as well that way.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Skythe on 04-14-2008, 06:35 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Street Dreamz
Umm....I've modified plenty of Cobalts and Ions. The Cobalts wheel hop just as bad as the Redlines....
I'm not sure what point your trying to get across. I don't think anyone is going argue that the Cobalt doesn't have wheel hop issues, nor was that at all implied by my post.

Is the FE5 arm better than the Redline stock arm? Yes.
Does the FE5 arm reduce wheel hop on the Redline? Yes

That's all
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Saturn ION RedLine Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Review: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Review Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Reviews
Review Review Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How To: Cruise Control Fix!!! snobrdrdan Problems & Troubleshooting 64 07-12-2014 11:14 PM
**Those who replaced the RL control arms with the SS Supercharged Control arm** SilverRedLine04 Performance Modifications 26 09-29-2007 12:12 PM
So when doing a compression test the dealer blows 2 of your rocker arms mrphoto103 Problems & Troubleshooting 158 04-19-2007 08:47 PM
Cobalt Lower Control Arms? Eagle_f90 Performance Modifications 2 04-09-2007 11:47 PM
2006 Chevy cobalt engine 16,280k 2.4L ecotec cobalt ss fullthrottle Buy/Sell Parts 15 12-27-2006 09:06 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new reviews
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome