Master Cylinder ? - Page 3 - Saturn ION RedLine Forums
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 11:30 PM
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all of them say dont let the pedal touch the floor
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 11:32 PM
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The service manual is also telling you what to do with a NEW part of course there isnt going to be shit in brand new fluid and brand new parts
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-30-2009, 06:49 AM
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This is from the Wiki howto:
# Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go.
# Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve."


This is from the Car maintenance 101:
"and letting air and old fluid drain into the bottle.

Step #14: When the brake pedal is already touching the floor or if it is as low as it will go, then close the bleeder. Let the fluid drain.


Where exactly does it say not to push it down?

The service manual isnt for "new" parts, And even if it was, when you replace a caliper or a hose you dont replace the master, so obviously the master would be used ,LMFAO, its for proper service procedures on these cars. Theres no disclaimers for mileage age or fluid condition. we also still come back to the point of how could bad seals cause a mushy pedal? They would cause a dropping pedal, it would feel okay until pressure started to bypass the seals then the pedal would drop as the pressure was released, once the pressure was released the pedal would be on the floor and the brake warning light would illuminate.

No one has pointed out the fact that the shop may have not properly installed the brakes, and that the hoses may be twisted or may have been damaged during the install, allowing them to expand under pressure, causing the spongy pedal.

Last edited by maven; 01-30-2009 at 06:54 AM.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-30-2009, 06:55 AM
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A little more info on hydraulic brake diagnosis:

• Pedal feel was spongy.
- Air in hydraulic system
- External brake fluid leaks
- Soft, weak or damaged hydraulic hoses; expanding under pressure
• Pedal fell away and/or traveled to or almost to floor.
- External brake fluid leaks
- Poor brake fluid quality; low boiling point
- Internal brake fluid leaks; improperly functioning master cylinder
• Pedal was somewhat firm then dropped slightly, or pedal rose with successive applies, or pedal travel was different between slow and quick applies.
- Internal brake fluid leaks; improperly functioning master cylinder
- Poor brake fluid quality; low boiling point
- Binding wheel cylinder pistons, if equipped
• Pedal returned to rest slowly after any of the applies.
- Internally damaged flexible brake hoses; hindering fluid return
- Binding caliper pistons
- Binding wheel cylinder pistons, if equipped
- Internal brake fluid leaks; improperly functioning master cylinder
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-07-2009, 06:29 AM
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the names Brad and John give me goosebumps.
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-07-2009, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1fbody View Post
the names Brad and John give me goosebumps.
awww. FYI, when changing your DIY Caliper baked on VHT silver finish to yellow, be prepared to do multiple coats to cover the silver. When spraying in your warm garage on a -30 deg C day,be prepared to do it over as the finish will tend to run.

When finished, dont forget to bake it in your oven at 200 dedg F for 1 hour.

Do this task late at night when everyone else is in bed, so they dont ask why the roast turkey tastes funny the next day. If possible serve the turkey with green, red and YELLOW peppers as veggies so they dont continue to ask questions about the yellow flakes on their plates.

Finally , pay the powder coater to do it for you next time dont be so cheap. Oh and Maven made me do it, Gen Beckmeister chose the color....
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