This is from the Wiki howto:
# Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go.
# Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve."
This is from the Car maintenance 101:
"and letting air and old fluid drain into the bottle.
Step #14: When the brake pedal is already touching the floor or if it is as low as it will go, then close the bleeder. Let the fluid drain.
Where exactly does it say not to push it down?
The service manual isnt for "new" parts, And even if it was, when you replace a caliper or a hose you dont replace the master, so obviously the master would be used ,LMFAO, its for proper service procedures on these cars. Theres no disclaimers for mileage age or fluid condition. we also still come back to the point of how could bad seals cause a mushy pedal? They would cause a dropping pedal, it would feel okay until pressure started to bypass the seals then the pedal would drop as the pressure was released, once the pressure was released the pedal would be on the floor and the brake warning light would illuminate.
No one has pointed out the fact that the shop may have not properly installed the brakes, and that the hoses may be twisted or may have been damaged during the install, allowing them to expand under pressure, causing the spongy pedal.
Last edited by maven; 01-30-2009 at 06:54 AM.