Saturn ION RedLine Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2006 Saturn Electrical Problem – won’t crank; Any Ideas?

2006 Saturn Electrical Problem – won’t crank (bought used, great condition, last summer at 190,000+ miles)
Monday – Took short, mid-day drive to store and back in 75-degree SoCal weather. After parking in driveway and turning off the engine, the key would not turn counter-clockwise past the ACC to the lock position for removal. After waiting 3-5 minutes, heard a “click” and was able to turn the key all the way to lock position and then left the car as normal. About 30 minutes later, car would not start. Dash lights would flicker and there was clacking of the starter solenoid (we think). Tried to jumper, but made no difference in symptoms. Did notice internal dome light was brighter during jumper attempt. Put battery on charger overnight. Battery is in trunk (vented style); battery and cables look like new, including battery ground to trunk body.
Tuesday – Disconnected charger in morning and car started right up. Repeated this several times. Left car parked and running for 45 minutes, turned off, started, repeated several times. Took old battery to AutoZone – “Bad Battery.” Installed new gel-type, sealed battery (no venting required). Car started right up (no car alarm sound???); repeated successful start-ups several times. (Ignition/key removal problem NEVER recurred after that 1 time on Monday.) Car sat parked for about 3 hours - then, would not start. This time, no clacking from solenoid. Slight sound of relays under steering column and instrument cluster – no activation of relays under the hood. Internal dome light, door locks, radio, fan and other accessories seem full-powered, but head lights don’t come on, nor does horn work. Error messages “Coolant” and “PWR STR” but nothing else. “Pass lock” symbol appears/disappears after 2 seconds. Keyless entry for lock/unlock function fine, but no effect on no-crank symptoms. Noticed that shifter was locked in park, even with key in the ignition and foot on brake (did succeed with foot on brake, left hand turning key to crank and right hand shifting – all simultaneously). Also, tried turning steering wheel with key turned “on” – wheel turned okay, no clicking to indicate a switch unlocking/locking problem. Put NEW battery on charger overnight.
Wednesday – Disconnected charger from NEW battery, car would not start. Same symptoms – no clacking, same faint relay click sound under cluster. Checked all fuses and relays that had “Ignition” or “Battery” in their name – ALL GOOD.
Thursday – Cooler, rainy day, but still in mid-50’s. Returned NEW battery to AutoZone. New battery checked out GOOD, both in voltage and cranking amps (I had hoped it was defective). Reinstalled battery, confirmed good spark when connecting the ground. No change to the car’s no-crank symptoms.
This chronology should give clear indication of the likely culprit, but it’s got me stumped! It’s acting just like there’s a theft-deterrent system that’s kicked in. But, I’m reluctant to go into the passcode reset procedure since that could introduce another unknown if it doesn’t work. If it were the starter or the solenoid, wouldn’t I hear the ignition relay on the fuse block clicking? I hate to unnecessarily remove the starter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,397 Posts
I would start with an ignition switch. Your issues sound nearly identical to another new poster's issues that I just replied to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Just replaced the ignition switch. During the 10-minute waiting periods, I was putting the fuse block cover back on when I heard a relay sound in the front of the engine area. Each time I pushed on the fuse block it prompted a "disconnect" causing some relay to clatter and the "door open" signal chimed.

I proceeded with the three (3) 10-minute sequences to completion, but the car still wouldn't start. I thought maybe my tinkering caused an upset, but all the indicators were good. That is, the padlock would go out each time as the 10 minutes concluded.

When it didn't start, I thought I'd try starting the pass code completely over. So, I COMPLETELY removed the new ignition switch, then re-installed it, connected the battery and expected to be at square 1 in the reset process - but, no-o-o-o-o! The padlock disappears after a couple seconds, just like the original. Can I assume that once the ignition switch is properly keyed in, it won't start from square 1, as though it were a new switch?

I'm starting to think the real problem is a loose connection around my fuse box. But, I'd sure like to know that the ignition pass code is not an additional problem.

THANKS!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,967 Posts
There was a problem with some fuse boxes not being fully seated. Sounds like that may be your issue. My understanding is that you need to "firmly" push it down to seat it. GC or someone else can confirm/give better instructions.

There is also a ground under the fuse box I think. Some have had trouble with this also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Found the loose bolts that hold down the fuse block. Tightened them and the car started right up!

'Hope this others!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
JAG,

Since you haven't posted in a bit, I'll take it that your problem is solved. If it is still being a 'pain', look at the clutch switch as that is what I just had to change and my car starts fine now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
new here, not sure if this where i ask a question but here goes. my ion2 has 87k miles just bought it from a used car dealer, ran fine for 600 miles then it shut off and would not restart all lights on the dash light up when i first turn the car on except the check engine light, which did come on when the car would would start.fuel gauge doesnt move and message center flashes pwr str then coolant. dealer said they just changed both switch and cylinder try the relearn process. which i did but the message center never read service nor did the passlock light illuminate during the process. could the new switch be faulty?
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top