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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i'll lay out my plan to you all, tell me what you think...

step one, swap out the m62 and throw in an m90, with m112 rotor swap, hopefully combined with an safc II, i'm praying that will do the trick for just that (although i'm not sure it would be absolutely nescessary with only the blower swap) note: i plan to keep boost levels the same using a larger pulley

step two, swap out the exhaust manifold, and throw on a stock 9-3 turbo setup (or go full 3'' exhaust), running LOW boost (note: just want to get it on there before i go full standalone), just above stock levels.

step three, get a full standalone (which one, anyones guess), and whatever else i may need, and try and achieve 25 psi, with LOW LOW charge temps. (turbo to be used is still in the research stages)

i am still in the process of researching, but i figure the m90 (m112 converted) swap is a good place to start, and i doubt i will need to upgrade much for that considering the lsj ecu is configured to accept more air than an LS1!

i'm estimating the cost of this to run just under 5 grand including tuning (i have someone who will hopefully help out on that end)

i figure with the above setup, i could see 350 or more at the wheels RELIABLY for quite some time!

any thoughts you might have could really be usefull, peace

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You have 3 options: Positive displacement blower, Turbocharger or Twincharged. If

you decide to stick with positive displacement then the M63 needs to be replaced with a Kenne Bell screw supercharger. It's a positive displacement compressor.. can it get any better? yes, get a set of cams and turn the motor into a miller cycle motor to really increase the efficiency and power.

You decide to go with Turbo charger then pull off the S/C system and sell it on JBo_Org. With the funds get a GT28RS Disco Potato and go hog wild. The turbo spools up like yesterday and makes enough pressure and volume for 350 HP. Simple powerful and efficient system.

You decide to go Twincharged then just slap on a GT series Turbo with a .81 A/R and leave the S/C alone. The turbo make take a bit to get spooled up, but who cares the S/C will take care of the needs down low. Once the Turbo is working the system then it will actually be driving the S/C and engine. The system may see 20 psi, but the S/C will not be making excessive heat since the pressure differencial between the inlet and manifold will be the same. (Turbo is doing all the work)
Then what I would do would be to get a set of cams and turn the motor into a miller cycle motor to really increase the efficiency and power. Normally it only works with a screw blower, but the Turbo is the compressor and the s/c is the valve.



howstuffworks.com said:
The standard four-stroke engines described in How Car Engines Work are called Otto-cycle engines. They are named after Nikolaus Otto, who invented this type of engine in 1867. In the same way, Diesel-cycle engines are named after inventor Rudolf Diesel.

Ralph Miller patented his Miller-cycle engine in the 1940s, and for the last several years Mazda has been using this type of engine in some of its cars.

A Miller-cycle engine is very similar to an Otto-cycle engine. The Miller-cycle uses pistons, valves, a spark plug, etc., just like an Otto-cycle engine does. There are two big differences:

* A Miller-cycle engine depends on a supercharger.
* A Miller-cycle engine leaves the intake valve open during part of the compression stroke, so that the engine is compressing against the pressure of the supercharger rather than the pressure of the cylinder walls. The effect is increased efficiency, at a level of about 15 percent.
No reason to touch the blower unless you are going to get rid of it all together. Unless you are going to try to make ungodlly large amounts of power then it's not going to compromise the performance in any way. Ultimate deal: swap out the pulleys for all cogged and let the blower really return power to the motor when the Turbo is doing the hard work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks man, i appreciate the insight!
 
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