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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there guys, I have visited these forums a few times since ownin my Redline but havnt had to post yet, But sadly today is the day I must discuss a odd series of problems.

to start, I was driving in town running errands to get ready for a fishing trip in the mountains, a check engine light came on. It seemed fine so I drove it to the mountains, it's top end performance at about 4500 to 6000 rpm seemed very slugish and weak. A scan revealed code p0420, freezeframe data revealed the engine was idling and fuel system closed at time of failure. I jacked the car up and tested the voltage output of the o2 sensors, both seemed normal but I replaces the hot side on a hunch. That code diminished and the light remained, another scan revealed a CYL 1 Misfire and then code p0068. The Reader has said somehtin about throttle position and airflow correlation. After clearing the codes the CYL 1 misfire never came back but P0068 is triggerd by revs above 3500 and then goes into a reduced power mode and cannot be driven safely in traffic. Befoe i is triggered it makes some awful ticking noises which I cannot pinpoint (maybe the the throttle body's drive by wire interface flickering?)

I have jacked up the car and disassembled the typhoon system and examined the filter, the pre filter was a little dirty from the dirt roads I journey on occassionally but thats why I have it. the K&N seemed fine and well oiled still red even since my last servicing of the system not too long ago. The MAF is cleaned regularly with oil chages and throttle body and supercharger seem clean. Im going to look for vaccume leaks today, the supercharger's bypass valve actuating diaphragm (for lack of a better term) has some dry rotted hoses that lead into the vaccume system. Im assuming that this shuts the valve at high vaccume levels to engage the most boost from the roots of the SC.

A dry compression test revealed around 120 PSI in all cyls except 3 which gave 110 and the plug was a bit eroded (probably an unrelated issue to the main problem)

I believe the CAT converter problem is unrelated to the new DTC code but if the converter were clogged for example the back pressure could probably cause a problem with manifold pressure and trigger the Low power mode? Then agian it never did this before the O2 sensor was replaced, Why did it start now?

At this point im all ears guys.
 

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the p0420 code is a clogged cat and thats what is causing your lack of power up top. for the p0068 code u got me someone will shine some input on it for u
 

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Good thread on this here. See post #3.

The MAF's seeing more air than expected. Hopefully just a vac leak pre-MAF.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
From what I'm seeing on the thread much of the blame is going to the K&N system, however I have had that in there since I bought it with it already in at 50K I now have 80K and have had no problems with this before. I remember reding a thread which was related to a failed baro sensor. I may go and grab some sailor jerrys and a multimeter and test out all the sensors for output and voltage drop. Also, the O-ring in my Mass air Fow sensor needs replacing for sure and may be interfereing with seating and sealing, however It may not be the star of this DTC show either, It has been bad since I bought the car as well.

If the Cat is clogged It may be time to lower the system and investigate (even if the O2 sensor replacement resolved the code). Should there be issues replacement (probably to an aftermarket) will be the solution to that.
 

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FWIW, for P0420, you would replace the REAR O2 sensor, not the front. The front O2 doesn't care if you have a cat or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
FWIW, for P0420, you would replace the REAR O2 sensor, not the front. The front O2 doesn't care if you have a cat or not.
hey sorry let me clarify, by "hot side" I mean the downstream o2. lol, being that the o2 sensor beck there need to read what the Cat "Burned off" I used incorrect terminology :)

anyways, I pulled a sensor part number 12580698 off the block just below the fuel rail. It was extremy filty an I cleaned the inlet (which appeared clogged), I have suspicion this is the Barometric pressure sensor? It appears to be ribbed to allow a hose like a vaccume line on it, There was no line to be found unattached that could potentially need to be reattached nearby.

THE mount for it is placed on the drivers side of hte block in the corner and hangs above the oil filter cap a search on google at the part number is showing only buick and 3800 related information and says "two bar MAP sensor"

any Ideas?
 

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Baro sensor. You were correct. And it just sits there all alone, no hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Update: I just finished assembling the intake system I also cleaned every possible sensor I could find. The Manifold Pressure sensor was oily along with a lot of the passages and tubing, I believe this may be a result of the Oil breather line. After spraying it all down with MAF sensor cleaner and re-attaching everything I started her up, the Check engine light and revving seemed fine but I havn't Lowered the car so I can do a load test yet. Tomorrow after work Ill re attach the Wheel Well covers and such then put the car on the road and put some strain on it to see if the problem comes back. By the way, THe belt tensioner is a Big pain to compress to put on and off the belt, I used a 15mm wrench and it workd fine coming off, but the aluminium gives in way too easy and messed up the spline when it was time to put th belt back on. Anyone else have problems with that tensioner?
 

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hey sorry let me clarify, by "hot side" I mean the downstream o2. lol, being that the o2 sensor beck there need to read what the Cat "Burned off" I used incorrect terminology :)

anyways, I pulled a sensor part number 12580698 off the block just below the fuel rail. It was extremy filty an I cleaned the inlet (which appeared clogged), I have suspicion this is the Barometric pressure sensor? It appears to be ribbed to allow a hose like a vaccume line on it, There was no line to be found unattached that could potentially need to be reattached nearby.

THE mount for it is placed on the drivers side of hte block in the corner and hangs above the oil filter cap a search on google at the part number is showing only buick and 3800 related information and says "two bar MAP sensor"

any Ideas?
Yep, BARO sensor



You'll notice the SCIP sensor also looks similar to the BARO sensor, except it has a gasket around the nipple ribbing to fit into the hole in the supercharger. The BARO has no gasket around the ribbed nipple.

I just had to replace my BARO sensor. It was bad and kept putting me into limp mode. It was a P2229 code, I believe. That P2229 also kept triggering a P1101 and P0121, which are both intake related. As someone else mentioned, it's supposed to just hang there as it just measures the ambient pressure. When I clipped the wiring to the new BARO sensor and cleared the codes, they did not come back.

Stupid question: how did you manage to get that BARO sensor off? It's held on by a bracket attached by two bolts. I cannot for the life of me get the left bolt off as there are a bunch of tubing and plumbing in the way. So my old BARO sensor's still sitting there on the mangled bracket, but the wiring is clipped onto the new one that I've temporarily zip tied to another part of the engine. :cowtounge
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Stupid question: how did you manage to get that BARO sensor off? It's held on by a bracket attached by two bolts. I cannot for the life of me get the left bolt off as there are a bunch of tubing and plumbing in the way. So my old BARO sensor's still sitting there on the mangled bracket, but the wiring is clipped onto the new one that I've temporarily zip tied to another part of the engine
There are no stupid questions when it comes to cars IMHO, For me I had the supercharger off as I explored the internals for any problems, It was a matter of using a box end wrench or even a ratchet, at this point I cant remember which one. If you dont want to go through the work of removing the SC you could try getting an Offset ratchet (a U-joint style connector for your ratchet for awkward angles) It would seem silly to have to remove you airbox and Supercharger just to service a small sensor with just 2 bolts like that. Then again look at Chrysler's Idea of Servicability: Batteries in Fender wells and the need to remove airboxes to access the terminal posts or battery (Pt cruiser, Sebring, Intrepid), Belts that require removal of the front clip (intrepid body style) Jeeps that require pulling the grill to service the headlight (cherokee), The need to remove body panels and cowling to service a rack and pinion. (Intrepid)

I like Gm for mercy on the mechanics, Sadly I would like to have a scan tool in front of me to view the data of the car in live mode and see the output of the sensors data.

Im tight on cash this month and just worked 24 hours in a 30 hour period (exhausted = me) and sadly it's gonna sit another night alone in the garage until I can get a multimeter to check the sensors output. Anyone know which wires are the signal wires on the SCIP, BARO, MAF, Manifold Pressure sensor? I cant guess which part is the problem sadly; thats just throwing money at the issue.

Well anyways gents the efforts on the car yeilded no solution (although smoother idle and less noise from the throttlebody at failure) Lots of ticking LOUD ticking used to occour immediately before the power reduced mode. THe car has about 80,000
and someone sugguested the CAT may be clogged Anyone experience that?
 

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disregard SCIP. it goes off if an asian kid get a B on a math test.
 

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lmao true; very true
 

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I don't remember getting anything less than an A in math until college level calculus 2...
 

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Sounds about right lol. I had a friend in hs that moved here from korea that always aced everything... It was almost sickening lol
 

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When there's a billion people in the world who look just like you, you have to be damn special in order to stand out. only half joking.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Please elaborate about the SCIP sensor. Is it a common failing sensor or does it falsely trigger errors? From experiments I did I'm convinced the SCIP is fine but I'd like to know if it is a problem child before class...
 

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usually throws P1182 falsely if the air filter is dirty
 

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usually throws P1182 falsely if the air filter is dirty, or if a wolf howls in canada, or the tide changes, or someone thinks about a kangaroo...
fify....

according to (some article i can't find now..) there are tons of things that can set it off.
 
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