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Ok, so I'm guessing that if you have a ION RL, and you are familar with Pontiac GTPs, you may have noticed its got the same familar boost valve. Well, I did the boost bypass on my 2002 GTP. Kinda nice. Doesnt give you more boost, just builds the boost you already have faster.

I havent checked this out my self, but I'm wondering if we can do the same mod the GTPs have on our ION RLs. They look the same. Its dark now when I get home, so I wont get a chance to check it out until this weekend.

Here is the link to the GTP's version. Looks the same...

http://www.mccgp.com/upgrades/boostbypassvalve/boost_bypass.php

I'll keep you posted if I get a chance to check it out.
 

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If you do this it's not going to mess up anything right. Because I just went and did this to mine and took it for a test drive. It seems like it helped a little bit. Boost does seem to build quicker. Now all I need is a header, 3 inch exhaust, and the AEM intake and I should be good for a month or 2.
 

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very interesting...
 

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redline24 said:
If you do this it's not going to mess up anything right. Because I just went and did this to mine and took it for a test drive. It seems like it helped a little bit. Boost does seem to build quicker. Now all I need is a header, 3 inch exhaust, and the AEM intake and I should be good for a month or 2.

:D

can't wait for a header to be ready for us!
 

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BlackRedline04 said:
Good thing it tells me how to open up the hood :p
i don't think that anyone who ever needs to be told how to open ANY hood should be attempting this mod, as simple as it may seem!
 

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look guys, just cuz i didnt know how to open the hood and that finally told me doesn't mean that you guys need to make fun of me!!!


oh and btw, did you guys know that our cars are supercharged??? thats freakin sweet!!! i couldn't believe my eyes when i opened the hood!!!


i'm so excited!!!!
 

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This solves half the issue with the bypass valve. Nice that it'll build boost quicker, but I don't think it'll solve the higher-rpm deal where the ECU opens the bypass at WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's a thought....

I did this mod a while back on my GTP. Kinda didnt like it. Made the car shift harder. Kinda odd huh. Did spool up boost faster. Car would pull in 4th gear instead of downshifting all the time.

Since we know how to make it build faster, and we know the ECU will open the bypass @ high RPM. Wonder if we can just keep the bypass closed.

DUCT TAPE!!

....No, seriously. Why do we need a bypass anyway on a manual tranny? My GTP is an auto. Is this bypass system like a blow off valve on a turbo?
 

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ILMODC said:
I did this mod a while back on my GTP. Kinda didnt like it. Made the car shift harder. Kinda odd huh. Did spool up boost faster. Car would pull in 4th gear instead of downshifting all the time.

Since we know how to make it build faster, and we know the ECU will open the bypass @ high RPM. Wonder if we can just keep the bypass closed.

DUCT TAPE!!

....No, seriously. Why do we need a bypass anyway on a manual tranny? My GTP is an auto. Is this bypass system like a blow off valve on a turbo?
yes, when the throttle plate closes the s/c is still spinning, if we had a clutch system, we wouldn't need it, but we don't so when the plate closes and the s/c still forces air into it it isn't doing any good. not exactly sure what the detrimental effects of it are, but i'd rather have it than not. we just need the pcm to stop limiting boost up top, and a bit more rpms up top and i bet we hit 13's easy with a lsd!

by the way, has anyone else tried this?
 

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So is this safe. I talked to someone who only reccomended doing this to an older car that is not so controlled by a computer. Also is the dealer going to be able to know that this mod has been done even if it returned to normal before taking it to them.....If any of you have done this please tell me if you have noticed any negative effects and how long you have been driving it like that...thanx
 

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well i don't think they can void your warranty as it is an inconsistancy in the manufacturing process(at least thats what i get from it) so some cars may have come with this "mod" done already (meaning it was assembled in an ideal position) or some may have come with the exact opposite situation (the bypass valve is all the way "up"). thats what i get out of it, please correct me if i'm wrong.
 

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Deny, Deny, Deny... It's as simple as that. The dealer can't tell for sure if over time it just slipped forward and that was the problem. If they can't proove it you can't get in trouble...

Tom
 

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This is form the HKS website... Blow-Off & Bypass Valves have one goal, prevent compressor surge. Compressor surge occurs when the throttle plate of a turbocharged engine closes and the pressurized air is forced back into the turbocharger’s compressor housing causing the turbo to slow down. Compressor surge not only decreases the spool of a turbo but can also damage its center cartridge. HKS Blow-Off and Bypass Valves prevent compressor surge by venting the excess pressure when a throttle plate closes, thus improving spool-up & longevity.......Not sure if i want to do this mod maybe just for special occasions when i really need that quicker boost..What do u guys think about this????
 

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spongalot said:
This is form the HKS website... Blow-Off & Bypass Valves have one goal, prevent compressor surge. Compressor surge occurs when the throttle plate of a turbocharged engine closes and the pressurized air is forced back into the turbocharger’s compressor housing causing the turbo to slow down. Compressor surge not only decreases the spool of a turbo but can also damage its center cartridge. HKS Blow-Off and Bypass Valves prevent compressor surge by venting the excess pressure when a throttle plate closes, thus improving spool-up & longevity.......Not sure if i want to do this mod maybe just for special occasions when i really need that quicker boost..What do u guys think about this????


I just did this mod tonight. Trust me, it doesn't make enough of a difference to actually be harming anything.

It makes a very, very slight difference in performance at best.
 

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A Turbo Bypass/Blow Off Valve and the one in the M62 Supercharger are for totally different things.

If you don't have it connected then the only gain you will see is a VERY mild increase in boost pressure earlier than before, but it's totally a function of delay from the vac system closing the valve.

Where you wont see any gains and in fact see a loss is in MPG ratings. The S/C goes into bypass so that it equalizes the pressure on both the atmosphere and charge side of the rotors. When the the valve is open it only takes like 3 HP to drive the S/C vs. about 25-30 when it's closed. For cruising you don't care about power and the difference would be like driving around with the A/C on, but for acceleration it's closed anyhow and from 4000 RPM(engine) on you'll be using 25-30 HP to spin it.

---====---

Now where this whole idea of limited boost comes in is that something is preventing the supercharger from seeing a boost pressure that we mechanically expect based on rotor RPM.
The initial thought was that maybe the PCM can act as a wastegate controler and crack the bypass open at higher engine speeds to limit overall manifold pressure. If that was the case then by disconnecting the vac line to the bypass valve even a butt dyno would probably puck up the increase in vehicle performance. (Also anyone with a boost gauge would see the higher psi too)
Since that doesn't seem to be the case (Has anyone verified that) Then something else could be causing the flow restriction that can open and close to limit air flow to the engine. The other possibility would and could be the electronic throttle control. Remember Fuel delivery and ignition timing defines engine RPM NOT the throttle position. It's possible that the PCM could be closing the throttle plate to prevent no more than a specific volume of air to enter the engine and preventing more power from being made.
This may be both a limit of the Mass Air Flow sensor used and MAP sensors.

I'd track down this issue in 2 possible ways.
1. Find a Saturn Tech Friend with a TECH2 do do a ride along in your REDLINE. Monitor the throttle position and/or motor voltage to see if it drops off near redline.
2. Hook up a FLUKE Multimeter to the voltage input line of the throttle motor (including a resistor to hide the multimeter from the PCM) and see what the signal reads through a redline run.

You may be amazed at what you see. Try to record a shift and see what the throttle position does under that condition.. <- Emissions causes that..

This is just the beginning of resolving the lost boost...
Just keepting the throttle plate open 100% to redline may not be the answer, it may also max out the MAF and set a DTC or even worse limp mode. <- speculation 100%
 

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Dumb Question...When doing the bypass mod, are you supposed to push it to the right(down), or are you supposed go left which is an upward motion. I asked someone and he seemed to think that is should go up. Either way, someone please let me know.
 
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