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Discussion Starter #1
alright guys heres the situation:

I went to the drive-in on thurssday, knowing my battery was on its way out i thought i could start it b4 it totally died. well i didnt make it. car wouldnt start. only 25 or so mins b4 the battery completely died.

anyways we jumped it and i havent been able to keep a charge in the battery, and so ive been jump starting it.

I went on friday to get a new battery ... tha nks gm for the trunk mounted fully ventialted battery, costs and arm and a leg.

anyways i popped it in, got it started up let it run for a good hour+ (had to goto the other side of town to pick up the girly). all seemed well i was able to start it no problem on the first crank like the first 10 times restarting it over a couple days.

now that brings us to today. car would not start, had problems even push starting it. and i got 4 cels

P0606 Control Module Internal Performance ECM
P0607 Control Module Performance ECM

P1680 Control Module Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) System Performance ECM
P1681 Control Module Throttle Position (TP) System Performance ECM


now, im going to go out and check all my grounds and everything to make sure thats not the problem.

I have cleared these codes, and the car seems fine. but it seems like the battery does not keep a charge or the clutch sensor is done b/c it wont start sometimes. like it has bad and good days... thats y i think its not totally fubar'ed

anyways, and input as to what else to check b4 i get a tps?
 

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also you can adjust your clutch depress pedal sensor, just get under there and look at it. while it does sound like you need an alternator, test it like gm said above the voltage on the battery should increase with RPMs, appx 14.5-14.7 @3500rpm if you're not seeing above 13 then that is your problem.

otherwise you could have a short to ground somewhere where your battery is slowly getting discharged, well at least faster than it is getting charged by the alternator. in order to test this it's a long process because it could be leaking where there is any power source. when your car is off with the battery attached, what is the voltage at the terminals? now do the same test on your battery but with both (-) and (+) leads off and not touching anything. same voltage? or more?
 

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I don't think the red top will work for long if the alternator is not working...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
lol i checked my alternator alrdy, my interceptor reads that it is working 13.6-14.0

i knew the battery was dying so i just replaced it anyways.

so i can rule out the alternator and the battery.

ignition switch maybe?
 

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lol i checked my alternator alrdy, my interceptor reads that it is working 13.6-14.0

i knew the battery was dying so i just replaced it anyways.

so i can rule out the alternator and the battery.

ignition switch maybe?
Idk about being able to rule out the battery and alternator. If your battery was getting a good charge it would not go dead after X amounts of drives.

If you had a drain on your battery it would go dead after X amount of hours or days.

What do you have for aftermarket parts tied into your electrical system? IE, wideband, aftermarket stereo or gauges?
 

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you should probably try what I suggested in the last few sentences of post #3, alternator sounds fine but we won't know for sure until...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
im going to need a volt meter for that which i dont have. but will get.

electrics i have 2 interceptors, both just in the obd2 and a aem wb wired to the rear 12v. this 12v turns off with the cars electrics, unlike the front.

I also have interior led's. but they have been in for over 3 years, and the problem is just recent, and they are hooked to a switch, aswell as the rear 12v.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
and also the alt is fine b/c i can get the car running and take off the positive battery post and it still runs. ive heard that is also a way of checking it. b/c the engine needs power frorm somewhere so disconnect the battery and if it dies ur alt is probably dead.
 

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I would think it's possible for the alternator to give out enough power to run the car but not charge the battery.
 

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I would think it's possible for the alternator to give out enough power to run the car but not charge the battery.
that is plenty truth.:pimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
but like i said. i checked it with the interceptor, and it says 13.6-14.0.

so to update, i have checked over all my grounds AGAIN and this time loosened and retightened any ground i have ever disconnected. and rechecked all my splicing for my leds and gauges. they are all done with splice butt connectors and then wrapped in electrical tape to ensure no pulling is on the wires. they are all secured with zip ties all nicely and away from anything tht moves.

i had to push start my car yesterday morning. then i redid all my grounds and checked my wiring. it has fired up the first time ever since 4 or 5 times. if, for the next day or two it works, i may just be a r-tard and had a grounding issue. I am going out today to get a volt meter to check like previously posted aswell.

I appreciate all the input so far guys. I think im also going to look up that ign switch problem alot of people seem to have, because some of my issues sound the same.

Anything else i should check?

Do you think those TPS codes and low performance ecm codes just had to do with me trying to start my car like 10 times in a row? then when it started i gave it some gas b/c it was sputtering out. So would that just be a coincidence? or could my TPS be fubar'd? when i drive my throttle is fine... car feels totally normal, minus the wheel bearing im going to get fixed thurrsday.
 

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could have been a grounding issue for sure, very, very common. however since you've been jump starting it (not push starting it, right?) everything has to be properly grounded for your car to run like a charm which is the area I'm concerned with. since you redid your grounds that may have done the trick for having it run right, the thing I'm curious about is how it will run and start over the next week or so. As for the codes, I've found that sometimes if my car was sputtering or misfiring or something weird like that and throwing codes, a simple code clear and negative battery terminal disconnect will reset the thing to run properly again, oddly enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yeah i cleared them and hey havent popped back up so i figured it was just a wtf from the computer lol.

and i was push starting it not jumping. i only jumped it once at the drive in, from then on it was push started.
 

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how bout ur ign relay? i had this prob like 3 yrs ago and that was my cure.
 

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could have been a grounding issue for sure, very, very common. however since you've been jump starting it (not push starting it, right?) everything has to be properly grounded for your car to run like a charm which is the area I'm concerned with. since you redid your grounds that may have done the trick for having it run right, the thing I'm curious about is how it will run and start over the next week or so. As for the codes, I've found that sometimes if my car was sputtering or misfiring or something weird like that and throwing codes, a simple code clear and negative battery terminal disconnect will reset the thing to run properly again, oddly enough.
I had a 1982 Nissan Sentra that the main battery negative wire corroded where it connected to the body. I had random starting problems. So I finally got my wife to crank it over while checked the voltage during cranking. She held the key for 5 to 10 seconds with no crank. Then she screams that there is smoke in the car behind the dash. Turned out the ground was running from the engine up the steering assembly and thru the dash wiring. Holding it burned out one of the printer circuit ground paths. Fix it and fixed the ground wire and all was good.

So, car can run just fine but not crank over with a bad ground. Just depends which ground is bad.
 

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OK now Im having the same issue, tried bypassing the clutch switch thinking it was that, but to no avail. Had to push start it (detroit winter morning... fun.) Ran fine all the way from where I was to my house, parked in the garage and shut it off, tried starting it 10 seconds later and nothin. No check engine light, but all the other times I tried to start it, came up reading "service vehicle" on the dash. no gauges, no aftermarket electronics aside from my radar detector which was in my previous vehicle wired the same way for a long time with no issues. Batt seems to be good still, no issues starting before. Once I had the car running I didnt notice if the service warning came on, I dont think it did, then again, I was mostly focused on getting this POS home. any other ideas to check? is this just a common issue for the 2004's?
 

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How many miles?
Time for a starter or solenoid>?
 

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little over 53k so shouldnt need a starter, gonna check relays and currents and such now that im home from work...
 
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