Jim Lewis said:
Hmm - "I will type slowly for the visually impaired."
Any special reason you need to act like a dick? I appreciate the information, but I, also, build and race cars, and work as a hot rod instructor in the nation's leading technical school - thanks for the info, but if you feel the need to talk down to a 41 year old ASE master tech with 25 years of on track experience, I'll gladly look elsewhere for my info instead of playing into some juvenile bullshit game.
Just as predicted, a list of experience longer than a NY pimp's rap sheet.
Here's my rap sheet:
Jimmy, I'm 50 and have been racing since '77 and spent time driving and tuning a 500 cube blown alky rat motor in a match race funnycar, and my current personal ride is a '66 NOVA wagon, SBC w/Doug Nash 5 speed, tubbed, caged and full-framed. I Formerly owned an 11 second '67 Camaro and a mid 10 second '67 Camaro, a '55 Chevy that went low 14's on street tires and mufflers(no nitrous back then) & a '56 Chevy Sedan Delivery that looked good, but was show, no-go. Admittedly, I don't work for a nationally renowned technical school, but then what percentage of knowledgeable racers do?
Question. If you're so experienced and informed, why did you ask the question that you did and make the comment about being coffee table conversation pieces?
OK, but are they for the 2.2 or 2.0, and what are the differences between the engines? With your experience, you don't know? To be honest, this question and the following statement is why I posted in the way I did.
If you buy these blindly, and they're for a forced induction (aftermarket) 2.2 engine, you've just spent some pretty strong money for something cool to keep on your coffee table as a conversation piece. Once again, with this statement baffles me from a supposed expert. 1) We as Red Line owners have forced induction engines, so being for a forced induction application definitely applies. 2) 2.0L or 2.2L no application difference, the cams work in both.
forced induction 2.2L aftermarket engine? Define the difference between an aftermarked forced induction air pump and a production air pump. The 0.2L difference makes no difference to Mr Camshafts. So, you have a factory supercharged engine and an aftermarket supercharged engine (an animal that doesn't seem to exist, by the way) what could possibly be different between them? ECOtec block, ECOtec head, GM internals, where would there be a difference? .02 L less in volume? Other than possibly making a wee bit less HP due to smaller displacement there is no difference.
12499466 Ecotec 2.0L Supercharged Production Engine
This supercharged 4 cylinder Crate Engine (RPO LSJ) features the following:
DOHC with Sequential Fuel Injection
Bore is 86.00 mm and Stroke 86.00 mm with 9.5:1 compression ratio
205 Horsepower @ 5600 RPM and 200 lb-ft @ 4000 RPM torque
This engine powers the Saturn ION Redline
This production engine includes: exhaust manifold, intake manifold, injectors, fuel rail, balancer, water pump and flywheel
Technical Notes: Pulley, belt, p/s pump, a/c pump, starter, alternator, and engine cover are not included with this engine
Notice that the only available replacement supercharged engine that I've been able to locate is listed as a PRODUCTION engine, not aftermarket. It is the same engine that is nestled in the engine cradle of the Red Line ION.
Do you know why the forced induction engines are 2.0L instead of 2.2L? I see you are offline at the moment, so I will go ahead and answer. Hint: It's not because that's just the way SAAB decided to make it. The stroke is less to decrease the rod angle to reduce the side thrust on the cylinder walls with the increased pressure pushing down on top of the piston. In a regular engine, the rod is pulling down the piston, in the supercharged engine the pressurized air charge is pushing the piston down the bore, increasing stress to the entire reciprocating assembly. The better rod angle reduces the forces on the piston, bore, rod and rod bearings and in a production situation, the less destructive forces going on inside the engine is better for GM and potential warranty issues.
Everyone has a view point and mine is if you you don't want a dick answer, don't ask a dick question and make a dick statement. Sorry if You thought I was being a dick to you, I just couldn't believe you posted what you did in light of the experience you have touted in a bunch of prior posts.
