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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read where it is recommended to unplug the battery for about 1hr to
reset the ecm after performance mods. I have not done this after I put on the
header and k&N.

Is this really necessary/ Could this help my dyno numbers?? :confused:
 

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if you need an answer i usually just yell spooner or *** and they come pretty damn quick. but i personally think that yes to get the computer to refresh (as i like to think it) you would need to disconnect the battery and then reconnect but make sure you know your radio code b/c when i took my car into the shop they disconected the battery they couldnt get back into the radio b/c the guy b4 me fucking decided to be a jackass and use a different code so when the reconnected then they couldnt get the radio to work so i got a new one for free :) couldnt beat that deal tho. but it took them an extra 1 hr 1/2 to get the damn thing done but thats alright i spent that great time making new frnds with the managers, (service & parts) great guys.
 

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redline said:
I have read where it is recommended to unplug the battery for about 1hr to
reset the ecm after performance mods. I have not done this after I put on the
header and k&N.

Is this really necessary/ Could this help my dyno numbers?? :confused:
Did you disconnect the negative on the battery while you put the K&N on? You are supposed to do that during the install, I dont think it does anything as far as performance but people around here have had CEL come on if you dont disconnect the negative.
 

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Superd00d
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I get a CEL EVERY TIME my battery is disconnected... it's happened 5 times now.
 

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from what i understand, it re-sets the computers adjusted fuel maps back to the base level, re-setting it allows it to adjust quicker to the change in airflow in and out of the engine. eventually it'll be where it was, so if you've had them on for a while, it shouldn't really matter if the computer is doing what it's supposed to.
 

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Sp00ner said:
I get a CEL EVERY TIME my battery is disconnected... it's happened 5 times now.
what code?

i find that strange since mine's never been like that, and i didn't throw a code with the CAI until i was at the track
 

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i did that intake mod like i was telling you all in my other thread and i didnt even disconnect the battery and it still hasnt thrown a code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
jeepin79 said:
Did you disconnect the negative on the battery while you put the K&N on? You are supposed to do that during the install, I dont think it does anything as far as performance but people around here have had CEL come on if you dont disconnect the negative.
NO I just put in a dropin. Did't think I needed to disconnect the battery
for that.
 

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redline said:
NO I just put in a dropin. Did't think I needed to disconnect the battery
for that.
For just a drop in, you should not have to disconnect the battery.
 

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i would say just try disconnecting the battery and see if that does the trick.
 

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Vita said:
what code?

i find that strange since mine's never been like that, and i didn't throw a code with the CAI until i was at the track
I don't know, I've never scanned it. There are 4 defininte times that it's happened now.

1) After the K&N install... the light was on before the car was even running. Instantly, just never shut off when you first turn the key forward. So I have a hard time thinking it was the CAI throwing a code that fast. So this one is a maybe.

2) Light went off a few hours later, and I yanked the battery again to make sure that anything the CEL might have caused was 'reset'. Just felt right I guess... CEL was back on instantly.

3-5) Like a fool, ever since I unhooked the battery, I've never used a wrench to tighten it all the way, and 3 times now the battery has lost connection trying to start the car. I hop out, tighten it up, and when i start the car, the CEL is on right away. It's so regular now, that I'd bet $20 if I pull the battery, that the CEL would come on.
 

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I don't have a redline so I don't know, but back when people started putting CAI on Tibs they would throw cels. Turned out when people put the MAF back in they were not rotating it correctly and when the engine moved it caused the wires to pull the MAF and throw a cel. Silly things like this can happen on any installation, so check the details.

Spooner, tighten down those cables man, loose battery terminal clamps sound a little rough. Good luck with it!
 

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kwikshift said:
I don't have a redline so I don't know, but back when people started putting CAI on Tibs they would throw cels. Turned out when people put the MAF back in they were not rotating it correctly and when the engine moved it caused the wires to pull the MAF and throw a cel. Silly things like this can happen on any installation, so check the details.

Spooner, tighten down those cables man, loose battery terminal clamps sound a little rough. Good luck with it!
Yea, I know! I'm lazy some days!!!

The MAF in the K&N pretty much set the way that it is. Kinda hard to rotate it either way. You can break the O-ring the circles the MAF though. At least one person had that happen.
 

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I was that one person with the o-ring that broke... ever since i replaced the o-ring, it has thrown the code twice (in two weeks)... instead of twice a day... I have now gotten to the point where i can reset the car at a traffic light with a handheld reader.

I am living with it until the psi kit comes out and just hoping that the piggyback will shut up the fuwhacking ecu. until then i will survive

Mine was throwing a P0068
 
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